Drill Press Table

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Project by Krisztian posted 10-06-2007 08:14 AM 19188 views 88 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Drill Press Table
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So your dimensions may be a little different. The result have been a table/fence that fits good and works good.
Here’s what you’ll need:
24” X 16” X 3/4” plywood
16” X 1” X 1/2” plywood
T-Track Kit

4’ T-Track Kit
Mark the center of the table on the back 16” side. Mark 1” in and drill a 2” hole. This will be to clear around the post of the drill press.
Cut straight in to the edges of the hole.

Mark the centers of the T-slots 3 1/2” in from each side.
Use an Incra Bend Rule to mark 3/8” on each side of the center line around the edge.

INCRA Precision Bend Rules
Set your dado to 1/2” deep. To make setting the height easy I use a Combination Square and Height Gage.

Set the height gage to the T-track and then transfer that setting to the dado blade.
Cut the dado’s across the table.
Center the steel table on your drill press. You can do this with a drill bit that is close to the diameter of the hole in the steel plate.

Place the table onto your drill press and square it up.
Mark the edges of the steel table onto you wooden table.

Cut the stiffeners to fit between the previous mark and the edge of the table. Mine were 10” X 4 5/8”.
Glue and nail the stiffeners to the bottom of the table.

Cut the T-track to fit into the slots on the table. Drill and countersink holes in the T-track.
Screw the T-track into the table.

Now we’ll build the fence.
Cut the fence 16” X 1 3/4”.
Cut a dado across the front top edge to fit the T-Track. Make sure that it ends up flush to the front of the fence.
Cut two fence bases 3” X 3 1/2”.
Drill two clearance holes for the T-bolts as shown below.

Mount the bases onto the table with the T-bolts in the T-tracks. Glue and screw the bases flush to the fence.
Cut the T-track to fit the fence. Drill and counter sink mounting holes in the T-track.
Cut a 1/2” think fence stiffener 16” X 1”.
Glue the fence stiffener to the back of the fence and screw the T-track to the front.

I made a cutout in the center of the table so that I can use a drum sander bit on my drill and go below flush. First find the center of the table by installing it on the drill press and marking the center with a drill bit.

Using a 2” Forstner bit drill 1/2” into the center of the table.
Use the 2” Forstner bit to mark the outline of the insert on 1/2” hard wood.
Using the band saw cut out the insert.

Drill a 1 1/2” hole through the center of the table.

As you can see in the picture of the fence I made a stop that goes on the front of the fence.
That’s about it.I hope you liked this project.

-- Krisztian VA My website:

11 comments so far

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4444 posts in 5299 days

#1 posted 10-06-2007 12:37 PM

Well done.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View CapnRon's profile


27 posts in 5366 days

#2 posted 10-06-2007 01:00 PM

very nice, how does it work for moritising, do you find that you have enough clearance from the top of the table to the bit. I’ve got a similar table top and get frustrated when I have to do deep mortises because my press doesn’t have enough clearance. Enjoy your new jig.

-- ~Capn Ron, workin wood is a way of life...

View TomFran's profile


2964 posts in 5331 days

#3 posted 10-06-2007 03:49 PM

Thanks for the detailed post on how to construct a better woodworking platform for the drill press.

Between you and Niki, I think I might be able to become a better woodworker. I just love the pictures with text to explain the process.

Thanks a lot! I’m sure that your model here will be found in other shops (because others will copy your design). This is easy to build and very functional.

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

View mot's profile


4928 posts in 5373 days

#4 posted 10-06-2007 04:20 PM

Man I love it when people post details. Then when it’s CRAZY specific details, I’m in Heaven. Great project, great post!

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View Dan Pleska's profile

Dan Pleska

142 posts in 5298 days

#5 posted 10-06-2007 04:48 PM

Excellent post. I’ll probably be making one in the near future. The cheapo (made with particle board) that I ordered from ^**&$( has been a disappointment. I know, I know, you get what you pay for. Your design looks a lot better. Thanks.

-- Dan, West Virginia,

View Alin Dobra's profile

Alin Dobra

351 posts in 5225 days

#6 posted 10-07-2007 04:00 AM

Hello Krisztian,

First, very nice design schematics and explanations. You must have spend quite some time on preparing this post.

Inspired by the tables that Rockler sells, I build a drill press table similar to yours. I have used the table for about 1 year now an here is what I think of it:

1. It significantly increases the surface area. This makes things much easier when working with large pieces of wood
2. Zero clearance for drilling. The table does not have a large hole in the middle that can make small pieces vibrate.

Things that did not work out:
1. The fence (mine is similar to yours) is really not useful. In the 1 year since I build the table, I used the fence only once with not so good results. The problem is that you can drill without any reference surface very well. The piece of wood, unless very small when you should clamp it in a screw clamp, is not going anywhere. You could speed up repetitive holes but I do those so rarely that it is hardly worth the effort. You grow tired of setting up the fence and the stop just to make a hole very fast.
2. The fence is not useful for the mortising attachment. There are two reasons for this: (a) the fence is probably too tall and will get in the way (fixable if you make a smaller fence), and (b) this type of fence will not help with the other role of the fence supplied with the mortising attachment: to keep the piece of wood down when you retract the chisel. It can be extremely annoying to hold it by hand (I got bruises in my palms while doing this) or to have the chisel catch and raise up the wood. What worked very well for me was to put the t-track bolts through the fence of the attachment and to use it in the t-tracks that are build into the table.

What I would do (did) differently from your design:
1. I found that MDF with plastic laminate (white usually) is a much better surface for tables/jigs than either MDF or Plywood. It is very durable and things slide on it nicely.
2. I would bolt the table to the metal base of the drill press not just put it on top. The last thing you want is that table to move (yours will move only back and forth not left-right but still annoying). Not even once in 1 year of use I wanted to take the table off to use just the metal surface.


-- -- Alin Dobra, Gainesville, Florida

View Karson's profile


35295 posts in 5737 days

#7 posted 10-07-2007 04:12 AM

Great post on your table and some additional comments on possible modifications. Thanks Guys.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia [email protected]

View Dollarbill's profile


91 posts in 5475 days

#8 posted 10-07-2007 04:29 AM

Great post!



-- Make Dust

View Chris 's profile


1880 posts in 5328 days

#9 posted 10-07-2007 06:51 AM

You have inspired me to finally build my own drill press table. I think I will design a second fence to be used with my mortising attachment.

-- "Everything that is great and inspiring is created by the individual who labors in freedom" -- Albert Einstein

View Bud's profile


191 posts in 5275 days

#10 posted 05-25-2008 05:16 AM

Nice job.

-- Bud -

View woodworkqvwt's profile


430 posts in 842 days

#11 posted 10-04-2019 10:22 AM

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