jig to plane wood.

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Project by donjoe posted 03-11-2010 04:29 AM 4371 views 27 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Hi, Thought I would show you one of my jigs. I use alot of short, narrow and thin pieces of stock. Since I don’t have a planer or jointer these types of jigs allow me to cut my stock to thickness. The sacrificial wooden wedges hold the stock in place and I lock the router in place on the slide board with quick close clamps. I then set the depth and cut to size. Have longer ones for longer stock. Don’t grumble about what you don’t have, make do with what you do have. Thanks for looking.


-- Donnie-- listen to the wood.

13 comments so far

View Jim Crockett (USN Retired)'s profile

Jim Crockett (USN Retired)

852 posts in 5185 days

#1 posted 03-11-2010 05:13 AM

I have been wanting to build one of these jigs, for I’m in the same position as you – use a lot of other than 4/4 or larger stock, no jointer, no planer, and no room for them even if I could afford them. Do you find that the two clamps sufficiently hold the router down to the slider? Also, do you have any problems with reach of the router bit to the board you are working on? Your side walls look fairly tall and I’d be somewhat concerned that if I wanted to finish with 1/4” stock, the bit might not reach.

Nice jig – now you’ve got me eager to make one for myself.


-- A veteran is someone who, at one point in his/her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including his/her life".

View woodworm's profile


14477 posts in 5043 days

#2 posted 03-11-2010 05:19 AM

Nice work on the jig – I do have a thicknesser planer, but still using this type of sled. Short stocks usually difficult to control (in fact is dangerous) to run through thicknesser planer.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View donjoe's profile


1360 posts in 4483 days

#3 posted 03-11-2010 05:21 AM

Hi Jim, I use a clamp on the end to keep the jig in place. If the stock is 12” or longer I use the same clamp to hold the stock down also. As for the height I have a board that will fit right into the bottom of the jig 3/4” thick for the really thin stock. You are right, you can only set the router bit so deep.

-- Donnie-- listen to the wood.

View a1Jim's profile


118322 posts in 5029 days

#4 posted 03-11-2010 05:28 AM

View frugalwoodworker's profile


4 posts in 4460 days

#5 posted 03-11-2010 05:53 AM

Here is a little different version thats works on the same principal. I too use short peices of wood to make novelty items, and I needed a way to plane them down. I made mine out of two peices of angle iron, tempered hardboard, and 3/4 inch boards. The way mine works, is the router slides inside of the angle irons, and the height is acquired by raising the jig up off of the work bench to smooth out a board. A 1 inch mortising bit works real good because it takes off a fair amount of wood with each pass. Another little bit of advice is to go with the grain and not across it. The jig is 24inches long and the width will be whatever your router base measures. I also wipe down all the sliding surfaces with paste wax for smoother operation. Be sure to fasten down the board your planeing. Will be happy to answer any questions.

-- Richard O.,northwest Mo,

View frugalwoodworker's profile


4 posts in 4460 days

#6 posted 03-11-2010 06:03 AM

I am kinda new to this, and would like to post a picture. Could someone tell me what they mean when they ask for url address?

-- Richard O.,northwest Mo,

View donjoe's profile


1360 posts in 4483 days

#7 posted 03-11-2010 06:07 AM

If you have your own website that is the place to list it.

-- Donnie-- listen to the wood.

View johnnymo's profile


309 posts in 4658 days

#8 posted 03-11-2010 06:11 AM


-- John in Arizona (but it's a dry heat!)

View docholladay's profile


1287 posts in 4511 days

#9 posted 03-11-2010 06:59 AM

I am very glad that you posted your jig. I have been planning to build one of these, but had not figured out a method to secure the stock. The wedge blocks are the perfect solution. I will have to make my jig a little bit longer for boards up to 3ft in length, but otherwise this is just what I need. Thanks for posting.

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

View Tim29's profile


307 posts in 4602 days

#10 posted 03-11-2010 07:24 AM

thank you for posting this. I have been wanting to make one for a while. have not been able to get my brain wrapped around the finer workings of it. this gets me inspired. good job.

-- Tim, Nevada MO

View jack1's profile


2169 posts in 5479 days

#11 posted 03-11-2010 08:48 AM

Very cool. I have an old jig that is made up of pipes, rails etc. that uses a router to do the same. I’m going to assemble it a try it now. Thanks!

-- jack -- ...measure once, curse twice!

View stefang's profile


17040 posts in 4786 days

#12 posted 03-11-2010 05:16 PM

I like your planing jig and the toggle clamps to secure your router in place. I do have a jointer and a planer, but I am planning to make myself a similar jig in the very near future. I think every shop could use one of these. Thanks for posting this one.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View JoeinDE's profile


450 posts in 4775 days

#13 posted 03-11-2010 06:23 PM

There are a lot of variants on this theme. Using another piece under the piece to be planed can solve the problem of a router bit that is not long enough to plane stock down to smaller thicknesses. Here are two other examples of LJs who have used this same concept.

I have built one similar to GHazard’s. I’ve found that it also works well for planing stock that has a twist – by shimming the fourth corner that does not make contact with the of the jig. Note that I use sacrificial blocks that are screwed down onto the base to hold the work piece.


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