My first try at furniture a end table

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Project by Steve Renard posted 09-17-2007 12:51 AM 2210 views 0 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

O.k. jocks you sparked my senses and Im jumping in with both feet,this end table is one of two to be made,and has been a blast to make so far I am using walnut for the legs,cherry for the apron and curly maple for the tops.The pics. will show progression It still needs to be finished and Im thinking about using boiled linseed oil do you have any comments?Also need input on how to mount top to apron,not sure about movement and such can you guys help me out here?The top was glued up long grain to long grain without any biscuts.The legs and apron are joined with pocket hole joinery.Let me know what you think!!!

-- steve with Grains Of Passion woodworks

7 comments so far

View WayneC's profile


14358 posts in 4706 days

#1 posted 09-17-2007 12:58 AM

Very nice. Great first project. Are the sides already glued up or is it a dry fit? There are a number of ways to attach the top depending on where your at in the process.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Don Niermann  's profile

Don Niermann

219 posts in 4581 days

#2 posted 09-17-2007 02:06 AM

Boiled linseed oil is apply once a day for a week, then once a week for a month then once a month for a year. It does not want to harden. Try Toung oil or Watco or dilute varnish with mineral spirits and wipe on or ,General Finishes.

-- WOOD/DON ( has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)

View scopemonkey's profile


191 posts in 4772 days

#3 posted 09-17-2007 03:33 AM

Looks great so far. If the apron and legs are already glued up, I’d go with figure of 8’s fasteners. If not, you can cut some kerf’s along the top back edge of the aprons about 1/2” down and use the metal table top fasteners (which you can also make yourself from scrap wood—I’m lazy and use the metal ones).

I agree with Don, and would consider Tung oil or Oil/Poly blend like General Finishes Seal-A-Cel. I’d also consider wipe on poly topcoats. These are so easy to use, even I get good results.

-- GSY from N. Idaho

View CharlieM1958's profile


16284 posts in 4827 days

#4 posted 09-17-2007 04:57 AM

That’s doggone impressive for a first table!

If you haven’t tried Watco Danish oil, do yourself a favor and check it out.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Tony's profile


993 posts in 4639 days

#5 posted 09-17-2007 11:39 AM

Fantastic looking table – you should be proud of your self.

I will go along with wayne for fastening the table top.,43586,43588&ap=1 $5.50 for 50. I used these for fixing the top in my big table If they can hold this table steady, then your small one should be no problems. I guess you will need about 8 in total (2 on each side)

Oil will “pop” the grain – there are a lot of very good fast drying oils on the market today – the choice you decide on, is on how fast you want to use the table. I would then finish off with a coat of good quality pase wax.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (

View Steve Renard's profile

Steve Renard

49 posts in 4530 days

#6 posted 09-18-2007 12:52 AM

Thanks guys for the great input,its not glued up yet but I think I will go with the figure 8 style mounts.I have danish oil and tung oil and teak oil and wipe on poly in the shop,witch one will make the curly maple pop best?

-- steve with Grains Of Passion woodworks

View ryno's profile


106 posts in 4272 days

#7 posted 11-27-2008 12:11 AM

try this pigpen, the WW uses dye but you can get similar results with amber shellac(as he says in the video).

-- It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt.

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