Router Table Coping Sled

  • Advertise with us
Project by pfleming posted 07-17-2016 10:50 PM 1617 views 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Well, after building the router lift for my router table the other day, if figured that I’d be using the router table a lot more, so I decided to build a coping sled to use on it. As usual, I looked at several diy and store bought jigs and decided on something that really wasn’t like any I had seen. I wanted a jig that was as simple as possible to build and use, but one that would function as well as any other out there. I made a couple of test routs after the build, and it seemed to work just fine for me. I built it out of 3/4” birch plywood. The overall width is 12”, with a depth of 8” and it will accommodate up to right at a 5” wide board. If I want to extend the slots, I could get it over 6”. It will also close down to hold as small as about 1/2” piece of stock. The hardware is simply some 2” bevel headed screws that I had, and a couple of 1/4” -20 nuts and washers on top. I did have to use a v-groove bit to allow room for the screw to recess into the bottom, so it wouldn’t drag on the table top. I do want to get/make some knobs for the top of the sled, but wing nuts would also work fine. I have the clamp on there to hold extra pressure on the piece that I’m cutting because the screws keep wanting to spin in the bottom slot, instead of biting and tightening down like they need to. Once I correct that issue, there won’t be a need for the clamp, as I can just squeeze the boards together and lock it in place. If anyone has a suggestion on how I can fix that issue, I’m all ears. Most all of the sleds that I saw others build had to have some sort of sacrificial piece on either side of the trim piece. The more I looked at that, the more I wondered why it had to have anything right next to the trim piece (other than possibly for tear out reasons), as long as your router table fence is long enough to accommodate the width of the sled. To use it you simply set the sled flush against the fence (straddled of the bit area, but in a place that the trim piece can also move all the way to the fence), slide the board on the left to the left, insert the board you want to cut, then slide the left board to the right (tightly), then tighten the nuts. The bit will have to come up farther than usual, since the board you’re cutting is sitting on top of a 3/4” board, but this wasn’t a problem for my set up, and you could always use 1/2” or even 3/8” board for this sled and it should work fine. Once you get the bit height set, set your sled firmly against the fence between the left side of the trim piece and the 1 1/4” “ear” of the sled and make your cut. This sled may not work for everyone, but I think it’ll do fine for my needs.

-- Patrick, Mississippi

2 comments so far

View 45Charlie's profile


7 posts in 2268 days

#1 posted 07-17-2016 11:55 PM

To keep those screws from spinning, use T-Slot bolts from Rockler.

View pfleming's profile


86 posts in 2129 days

#2 posted 07-18-2016 01:37 AM

I may very well have to go that route. I guess I could get some toilet flange bolts and route a shallow straight groove with a straight bit. We don’t have any woodworking stores anywhere close to where I live, so I have to do the best I can with what I can scrounge up locally, or order stuff online.

-- Patrick, Mississippi

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics