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Project by SweatyTeddy posted 04-04-2016 01:57 PM 1478 views 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

My wife wanted a deck to study and do homework at while she is in nursing school. Used 1×4s 2×4s and 2×6s. This was probably my favorite project to build. When I do it again cause I know she will want a new one later on, I’ll plane the top. I recently got one from my dad who got it from my grandpa and havnt had a chance to use it yet. By the way I need a little advice on sharpening my blade for that sucker. Any tips are welcome.

-- I'd be done by now if I knew what I was doing! - said by no man ever with a woman present

5 comments so far

View Ivan's profile


17331 posts in 4365 days

#1 posted 04-04-2016 06:24 PM

I like this massive rustic style.

-- Ivan, Croatia, Wooddicted

View BikerDad's profile


347 posts in 5099 days

#2 posted 04-04-2016 11:10 PM

Sharpening tips: Pick ONE system, and get really good with it. THEN, and only then, explore other systems. Otherwise, you’re likely to spend a bunch of money jumping from system to system in pursuit of Sharp, when some simple practice can get you there with much less expense. (Note: if, as it is for some people, the exploration of Sharp becomes a hobby in itself for you, then ignore the preceding.)

The cheapest system to get into is Scary Sharp.
Other options are waterstones, oilstones, diamond stones, diamond paste, powered belt and/or disc sander, dry grinder, and wet grinder. Various combinations of these systems can and have been used successfully as well. And, it must be noted, unsuccessfully. They ALL will get your edges sharp, and they all can be a colossal waste of time, money, and blade.

Pick up The Perfect Edge by Ron Hock, it will teach you all the head knowledge about sharpening you’re ever likely to need. The rest of the knowledge you’ll need you can only get by actually sharpening.

Nice piece by the way, your design? Looks like Douglas Fir. If so, you’ll need a SHARP blade, and watch out for the transitions from the soft earlywood to the hard latewood. (Or perhaps the reverse). Planing with the grain the alternating grain hardness won’t be much of a problem, but it is quite a bother when going against or across the grain.

-- I'm happier than a tornado in a trailer park! Grace & Peace.

View SweatyTeddy's profile


50 posts in 2282 days

#3 posted 04-05-2016 01:16 AM

Thank you biker no noycmy design. My wife found it on I tweeked it slightly, but not my design. It’s just standard 2×4s and 6s. And pine 1×4s.

-- I'd be done by now if I knew what I was doing! - said by no man ever with a woman present

View MikeB_UK's profile


1080 posts in 2532 days

#4 posted 04-05-2016 12:10 PM

Nice table.

Like BikerDad said, pick any method of sharpening and stick to it, they all work. Freehand or with a guide is a personal choice, different people like different methods. Try using what your dad/grandpa used, you should get some tips.
The best advice I can give you is if someone really tries to get you to use 1 method because it’s better, then ignore them, they are wrong :)

When planning 2×4’s you want a sharp blade and practice on a bit you don’t want, going with the grain is key but the grain switches direction and there are lot’s of knots, take thin shavings.
High angle plane works best to avoid tearout, but you have the plane already so ignore this bit.

I am very much a novice at this so feel free to ignore me completely :)
I mostly use cheap construction lumber though.

-- Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.

View ShogunJimi's profile


38 posts in 2395 days

#5 posted 04-05-2016 02:39 PM

There are plenty of sharping videos on You-tube. For about 50 dollars – I’d go with a Stanley or Irwin oil stone (20$) and a King fine grit whetstone (20$) and a strop with that green compound (about 10$).

This reminds me – I would like to make a video on sharpening.

-- Only a woodworker will value a good screw-up

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