Ok, another Kerf Maker

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Project by drfixit posted 10-23-2009 04:27 AM 8495 views 7 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

After seeng treeman’s and the orginal from Bridge City Tools, I had to have one, but Bridge City’s is on back order. So i figured I would try and make one of my own. I used uhmw plastic to make it. It took around 2 and half hours this evening to make it and adjust it. Seems to work great, but as soon as the Bridge City one is available I am buying one of theirs. The last pic is 2 different widths of some scrap oak that I tested it out on, made a very tight joint.

-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!

13 comments so far

View jackass's profile


350 posts in 5175 days

#1 posted 10-23-2009 04:53 AM

I still can’t get my head around it’s use, or how it works. Guess I’ll have to build one , then try it.

-- Jack Keefe Shediac NB Canada

View drfixit's profile


318 posts in 4606 days

#2 posted 10-23-2009 04:57 AM

Follow the link this link ====> Bridge City Tools and scroll to the bottom of the page, there is a video of it being used… it was the only way I figured it out, and it is a VERY cool tool…. Like I said when they are available I am buying one, until then, my home made one have to do.

-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!

View woodworm's profile


14477 posts in 5053 days

#3 posted 10-23-2009 05:31 AM

Nicely made and I like the material you used.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View Karson's profile


35300 posts in 5863 days

#4 posted 10-23-2009 05:36 AM

Great design.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia [email protected]

View Ken90712's profile


18113 posts in 4651 days

#5 posted 10-23-2009 10:18 AM

What a cool tool! Thx for the posting I have to have one on the peg board! The video is so helpful that is sold me on it instantly!

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View Sandy's profile


249 posts in 5387 days

#6 posted 10-23-2009 12:06 PM

Very nice! Please let me know when Bridge City is no longer back ordered, so I can let you know my shipping address to send me the one you made.

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27248 posts in 5284 days

#7 posted 10-23-2009 02:14 PM

This is another nice kerf maker and building it from UHMW was a good idea.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View a1Jim's profile


118321 posts in 5039 days

#8 posted 10-23-2009 03:42 PM

View spaids's profile


699 posts in 5155 days

#9 posted 10-23-2009 11:42 PM

These things are so cool and simple and complicated all at once.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

View thecraftsman's profile


9 posts in 4614 days

#10 posted 10-27-2009 11:34 PM

I have a one that is made from oak wood that is close to that tool. The key to how it works is two parts.
The first part is to have your cutting tool set up to cut the way you want. It can be a table saw, router in a table or radial arm saw. The get a piece of scrape wood and make a cut on one end about a inch from the end. If the board is 2 inches wide cut about 1 inch in and the come from the end to that cut to have it drop off. What you want is a piece of wood that has not been altered on one side and right next to it has been cut to get the kerf or thickness of the router bit or saw blade to calibrate the tool, take that piece that came off and and stick it against the wood that was removed and you will see a step down from one end to the other. That is the end you use to set the calibration on the one end. That is the end L piece on the end with the other end flush up to the other side you set the calibration of the offset. second part is: Then you use the other end to set the thickness of the board or piece of material you want to go in to the dado or rabbit joint.
You set a stop block against your fence so that with the tool in place and the board you want to cut is at the mark you want to cut inside make a pass and them turn your tool over and reset the board against it and make another pass.
If there is material that needs to be removed between the to cuts then make you passes within those cuts and to remove all the material that was left behind.
Then remove and insert the item you wanted to fit in the groove or rabbit and if you did it correctly, the fit will be a tight joint. The key if your especially doing a rabbit joints is to allow for the align the board to start on the other side of the cutter. Otherwise you end up short.
Great for doing dado’s or rabbits.

-- Eric, Illinois,

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

27713 posts in 4568 days

#11 posted 08-09-2011 01:59 PM

Nice tool and it looks like it works good like it is supposed to. You have the same basic design as the Bridge City kerfmaker. I have watched their video many times and could not see how they set it for the thickness of the blade. I made one that just clamps over the blade to set the width of that offset so it was simple to me. How do you set it for blade thickness?

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10963 posts in 5514 days

#12 posted 08-09-2011 06:25 PM

To really measure the blade (cutting thickness), wouldn’t you have to measure the width of a Blade Tip?

... and if tips are slightly screwed, every other one, etc. wouldn’t you have measure the width of TWO adjacent tips… Tip to Tip?

Clamping to blade Sounds like a simple way of doing it… Good idea…

Another way would be to just make a Cut… and measure it… or make a thin piece that fit’s it snug & use IT for the kerf width.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: ... My Small Gallery:

View fernandoindia's profile


1081 posts in 4406 days

#13 posted 08-11-2011 03:06 AM

Nice looking kerfmaker Dr.

@Jackass, Mads made a blog on how to use it, after we supplicated him to.

-- Back home. Fernando

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