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This is one of two Greene & Greene Game Tables I made. They are modeled after the Gamble House Dining Room Table. The game board is removable and reversible. The reverse side is a Blokus board. When the Chess/Blokus board is removed there is a Backgammon board in the well.

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Beautiful design and craftsmanship, Darrell. Looks like you have an enviable shop as well.
 

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Very Very nice!
 

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Darrell: The game table looks great. It's nice to see some of the in work process shots.
 

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Darrell, your stuff reeks CLASS!!!

Your attention to detail and workmanship is incredible.

Thank you for sharing!
 

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Which part of Seattle are you in Darrell? Perhaps one of these times I'm traveling over there I could come visit and watch for a little while!
 

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Great looking table!in true G&G style, but would not expect less from you Darrell. I am contemplating building an Aurora table and have been studying the style for some time now. Still working on the wife to let me take one of your class. Someday for sure. Thanks for posting.
 

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Magnificent!!!!!!!!!
 

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Wow, that's fantastic. Want :)
 

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Darrell Peart,
Gorgeous work again as always. Thank you for the in process, build shots as well.Planing the drawer front, shows how much hand work is still involved in the constuction of some thing like this wonderful table. Who mfg'ed the slot mortiser? Hope we can get a look at the second table with the removable/reversible top as well. Thanks so much for sharing with us here.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis
 

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Very nice piece. Must have taken many many hours of work. Would you be able to tell a beginner how you managed to get such a nice fit as shown in picture #4?
Thx Lloyd
 

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Thanks everyone!
Arw101 - I am in West Seattle just south of Roxbury on 30th Ave SW. I will have a booth at The Seattle Bungalow Fair at Town Hall this coming weekend - stop by and say Hi

Woodbutcher - My mortiser is a multi-router which is a really great machine - incredibly accurate and fast!

Lloyd - Fitting the curved solids to the table core is not difficult but it is much more involved than could be explained in the room we have here. I will give a very very basic rundown of how it is done.

Make the core section of the table first

attach a piece of MDF to the table's core and flush trim it to the core

save the offal side of the MDF (the part that was not attached to the core)
This piece is an exact replica of what is needed to produce the solid edging - but plus the diameter of the router bit used for the flush trim

attach another piece of MDF to the saved piece of MDF
route again using but this time use a template guide that will put back that amount that the first flush router took away.

I am not sure if I explained this well - there are a few other details but this is the principle.

I have an article coming out in the next issue of Woodwork Magazine that goes into detail on this - but in the article we are making a template for a drawer front with a curved bottom edge that has a 1/16" gap along a matching curve just below it. It's not an identical situation but the principle is the same.

Darrell
 

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Most unique Darrel and of course done with the mastery of a master.
 

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Awesome!
 

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Another superb piece! As always, outstanding attention to details and excellence in craftsmanship. Fantastic work. Thanks Darrel! See you over at the GnG forum. Max
 

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Another wonderful project. Somewhere, Charles and Henry are smiling.
 
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