14" bandsaw

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Project by Mark2 posted 06-03-2007 05:19 PM 2937 views 4 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
14" bandsaw
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Hi i’m Mark2! Thanks for all the welcomes everyone. I’m trying to recycle used lumber. I have a 3/4” 4 tooth per inch blade on my saw i’m cutting a 2by6 to make a 1by6. My saw is single speed. When the cut is finished th blade is warm to touch but not hot i want to maximize cutting efficiency and gain longevity from my blade. Shoul i speed up or slow down the blade? I also want to cut 4by4 oak is there an rpm chart (or equivelent) for cutting different types of wood and thickness. I appreciate any feedback i get. Thank you!

10 comments so far

View Nicky's profile


729 posts in 5582 days

#1 posted 06-03-2007 06:46 PM

Welcome Mark2.

Much has been written about the subject. Opinions vary as does the equipment and materials that you work.

At minimum, your saw should be in proper working order. By this I mean your blade is tracking properly, your fence has been adjusted to account for drift and is square to the table . DAGS on “Band saw resaw” and you will get many opinions. Also checkout , Marc did a video on his new band saw and gave very sound advice and tips (and entertaining – well done Marc.)

Your blade choice should determine how aggressive your feed rate should be. IMHO, a more aggressive feed requires more work to cleanup saw marks. I would think that speeding up or slowing down the blade will not have the effect you’re looking for. Blade choice will have the greatest influence; use the correct blade for the finish you’re looking for in the materials you’re trying cut. A warm blade is normal; you create friction during the cut. Blade life will be dependent upon many factors including your feed rate and materials.

Do more research. A lot of sites selling bandsaw blades offer charts and helpful information.

-- Nicky

View markrules's profile


146 posts in 5605 days

#2 posted 06-03-2007 07:25 PM

Mark2… Blades being warm to the touch is normal, but can also indicate a dull blade. I think that 4 TPI is a little too fine for the cuts you described. Speeding the blade up will allow more teeth to pass during any given time, giving you a finer cut. In metal cutting, and with some very hard woods, there’s a limit. There’s a rule… 3 – 6- 12 – 24. Absolute minimum of 3 teeth in the material. 6-12 is optimum, and at 24 you’re probably getting very poor performance. For softer materials, I’d go with a lower tooth count (larger gullets). In a 2×6 board, you’ve got 22 teeth in the material. Using a 3 TPI blade would have 17 teeth in contact with the wood.

Pick a blade that suits the most different materials, realizing that you’re going to have to feed differently based on how many teeth are at work at any given moment.

View Jeff's profile


21 posts in 5575 days

#3 posted 06-03-2007 08:23 PM

Yes, there’s lots of stuff written on the subject, check out the Timberwolf blade people, Suffolk Machinery, they have some info on their page. Also, you may find that the 3/4” blade will not last long, as in break, as rolling that width over a 14” diameter wheel will cause it to flex too tight. Kind of like bending a wire so much that it breaks eventually. I have a 16” saw and I find that I can resaw just fine with a 1/2” blade, it really does get down to the teeth.

-- Jeff, West Linn, OR,

View TonyWard's profile


748 posts in 5818 days

#4 posted 06-03-2007 11:38 PM

Advice from bandsaw blades manufacturers is to use the highest speed possible when bandsawing timber. If you are looking for further information to do with bandsaws etc where is a wealth of web sites which may assist ~ Bandsaws and Blades information sites

Tony Ward

View oscorner's profile


4563 posts in 5801 days

#5 posted 06-04-2007 12:30 AM

Mark2, thanks for asking this question. I’ve learned something new. Thanks for the links and information everyone.

-- Jesus is Lord!

View mot's profile


4928 posts in 5526 days

#6 posted 06-04-2007 03:56 AM

This has been a good read! Good question and good discussion. Thanks!

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View Bob Babcock's profile

Bob Babcock

1823 posts in 5576 days

#7 posted 06-04-2007 04:18 AM

I just bought 3 blades from highland hardware
I bought the 1/8” 14 tpi for fine work…a 3/8” 4 tpi general purpose….and a 3/4 wood slicer. I haven’t used any of them yet.

I have a 3/8” 3 tpi in the saw now and have done some moderate resawing. I’ve done some 6” mahogany, 6” oak, and some 4” lyptus. No problems with any of them. Just adjust the feed rate to fit. If I plan on doing lots I’ll switch to the woodslicer.

-- Bob

View Chris 's profile


1880 posts in 5481 days

#8 posted 06-23-2007 03:54 AM

I had some nice figured 6/4 Mahogany for nearly a year before I finally tried my hand at re-sawing with my bandsaw. The best thing I did was call the people who make the “timberwolf” line of blades ( Suffolk Machinery ) I told them what I wnated to do and they set me up with a resaw and a general purpose blade for less than I could get them locally. Great customer service to boot! The blades cut like a dream!

-- "Everything that is great and inspiring is created by the individual who labors in freedom" -- Albert Einstein

View WayneC's profile


14359 posts in 5587 days

#9 posted 06-23-2007 03:55 AM

I use a timberwolf blade as well and have had good luck.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Dorje's profile


1763 posts in 5487 days

#10 posted 06-23-2007 04:05 AM

I’ve been quite happy with the Timberwolf blades too. I seem to only use/need a 1/4” for curves, small stuff, etc. and a 1/2” for resawing.

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

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