Bandsaw Fence (accurate & cheap!)

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Project by Gary Lundgren posted 03-07-2015 07:28 PM 4137 views 7 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I made this bandsaw fence after having looked at some at the typical woodworking stores.

My bandsaw is a Porter*Cable 14”. It has the holes taped into the sides of the table already.

I measured the position of the holes. I use steel rulers or a folding rule as they are most accurate. Tape measures are too sloppy and only good for approximations. Measure twice. Get your orientation right. Mine came out spot on. I’ve done my share of missing the spots, and still do on occasion.

I made this for $7.43 in parts and scrap wood about the shop. The parts I bought was a length of aluminum angle 1/8 thick X 1” X 36”, and a package of 3/4” flat head screws.

I used a piece of scrap melamine board for the face of the fence as it provides a smooth slick surface, even faster when I wax it! Used a piece of MDF for base. I need to upgrade that to a hardwood such as poplar (good shop jig hardwood). I’d flatten that with a planer and be sure I get square. I cut a relief in the bottom edge of the face that only goes in about 1/2” to provide dust relief. You have to drill a convex in the bottom of the angle that attaches to bottom of fence to provide relief for the screw heads.

I cut a dado in the bottom of the fence end to accept the edge of the angle I’m attaching to it so it will be flat on the table. Attached it with 2 #10 3/4” FH screws. All the cuts were perfectly square (made test cuts) so the fence aligns perfectly with the miter slot. I don’t know how important square alignment is on a bandsaw as you are dealing with a flexible blade and that is where you will get your imprecision. Bandsaws are just not precision tools. They’re a tool to get you close and you use others to get to the precision you want.

Since I was not able to easily design a lock lever for the fence I use the magswitches 95 to hold the fence once I have it where I want it. They work great and it’s close enough for my needs. I suppose one could use a C-clamp vise grips or F clamp along the bar. Since I already had the magswitches, just continued with that.

From here, I may design some additions such as T-tracks, a piece for resawing, stop blocks, and whatever else may be useful with T-tracks.

-- GaryLundgrenCrafts

3 comments so far

View ToughCut's profile


89 posts in 2888 days

#1 posted 03-08-2015 02:11 PM

I like the way you think and I am seriously going to look at making one for my Bandsaw. I will also us the mag switches.

-- If you are not willing to learn, No one can help you. If you are determined to learn, No one can stop you.

View bushmaster's profile


4147 posts in 3564 days

#2 posted 03-08-2015 02:14 PM

I like the idea of the mag locks, I have a fence that is rarely used because of the lead of the bandsaw blades when they get abit worn, I think I will take it off and just use mag hold downs set at the right angle for how the blade cuts.

-- Brian - Hazelton, British Columbia

View Gary Lundgren's profile

Gary Lundgren

81 posts in 2774 days

#3 posted 03-08-2015 02:31 PM

Thanks. I recently bought another pair of magswitches, the 150’s. Twice the hold of the 95’s. Albeit the 95’s are very strong. They are quite useful in many jigs. A bit pricey. Also use them to hold my sanding plate glass on top my tablesaw (my best flat surface) for flattening planes, etc.

While I can get a dead on square with this fence, not being tied into the rail makes it able to be angled.

Thanks for the compliments!

~ Gary

-- GaryLundgrenCrafts

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