Wood Corner Clamps

  • Advertise with us
Project by NickyP posted 12-18-2014 11:20 PM 26928 views 39 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Allow me to begin by saying that I really liked the idea of this project & “borrowed” it from a man named Izzy Swan over at YouTube and he does a great job explaining the relatively simple process. I made 4 sets (2 per set) for 4 corners if needed and will probably periodically make more. The 1st thing I did was cut all the pieces. I then cut 16 wedges from oak that are 5” long that are 3/4” to 1/4”. I then made a practice piece to get the proper spacing and angles. I used a smaller wedge to layout & mark the piece, making sure I got it right so the wedge would work properly:

There is a top & bottom piece for each corner clamp. The bottom is the full clamp & the top piece has a cutout:

I glued, screwed, & cutout the corner of the tops:

These clamps work outstandingly and easily lock in corners with the slightest tap of a hammer on the wedges:

-- -- "Never underestimate the power of a kind word, a good deed, or a table saw."

13 comments so far

View tyvekboy's profile


2150 posts in 4345 days

#1 posted 12-19-2014 01:40 AM

Interesting concept.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

View SissyCassie's profile


26 posts in 3037 days

#2 posted 12-19-2014 01:41 AM

Great job Nicky P!

View kiefer's profile


5852 posts in 3999 days

#3 posted 12-19-2014 03:48 AM

That should work great for you .
Here is my box clamp which can be used on all kinds of box joints and does not need acces to the inside of the box .
There is also a video on how it works

-- Kiefer

View davidroberts's profile


1027 posts in 4818 days

#4 posted 12-19-2014 05:54 AM

Izzy has some really good tips and techniques that I “borrow” regularly. The first set of the corner clamps I made didn’t turn out quite square (slippery glue surface) and my wedges were too big – wide. The second attempt came out better when I stopped worrying about squareness on the outside of the clamp, doh, and made skinnier wedges. I’ll “borrow” the hot glue gun idea, next time! I also use them to hold edges together for driving screws, brads, nails, and even free-hand drilling for dowels. Excellent little shop project to use up some scraps and make something very useful for box and cabinet glue-ups. Thanks for sharing.

-- Better woodworking through old hand tools.

View TheWoodenOyster's profile


1351 posts in 3267 days

#5 posted 12-19-2014 12:26 PM

Looks great. I haven’t gotten into wedge clamping much, but I know it is a great untapped way of doing things.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View seriousturtle's profile


101 posts in 4663 days

#6 posted 12-19-2014 04:00 PM

Will be making these in a few days. thanks for the great idea

-- ~the turtle

View a1Jim's profile


118308 posts in 4909 days

#7 posted 12-19-2014 04:17 PM

Looks like a winner.
Izzy is a member or LJs


View rhybeka's profile


5117 posts in 4454 days

#8 posted 12-19-2014 09:18 PM

LOVE me some Izzy :) I just found him a few months back. Those look great Nicky!

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View skatefriday's profile


535 posts in 2815 days

#9 posted 07-07-2015 10:29 PM

I so badly wanted these to work, but I’ve now made two sets
and there are problems with both.

The first set I marked as Izzy did and when assembled, the wedge stops
were too far away from the 3/4” plywood and the wedges would not
grasp. I marked using the wedges as was shown in the video.

I made a second set and placed plywood into the slot, wedge against
the plywood, and then wedge stop against wedge and then marked where
the wedge stop is. Then glued/screwed the wedge stops to the mark.

The problem is, if you aren’t perfect on that angle, you can get some slop
in the end of the wedge stop. Once you have slop in that wedge, you
can’t reliably get the pieces square.

Has anybody but Izzy made them accurately enough to be useful? It’s
a great idea, but my execution has been less than satisfying.

View Eden1415's profile


3 posts in 2136 days

#10 posted 03-14-2016 05:10 AM

I have. The one thing to do is to make sure the inside of the blocks are square Then base everything else around that measure. Once I cut the inside corners, I put them up against my precision engineer square and found the best two to use. Before attaching them to the base. Here is a picture of one of the 8 I made. Note these are all double thickness, and a bit smaller then Izzy’s 5” size. That way I can get them all into one storage box.

I also double checked that the vertical on the inside square was at 90 degree to the large base as well, before attaching the outside wedge stops. Once I had them CA glued in, I put the screws in from the bottom. The wedge I made of various thickness so that they could hold 3/4” down to 1/4”. My wedge cutting jig was a modification of another Izzy creation. that I made for my table saw cross cutting sled.

Works great. I recently put together 4 cabinets, and two book cases using these. Fantastic and super cheep and easy to use. I did find with Melamine, that I had to reset some of the corners as they tended to slip a bit. I fixed that with some sandpaper on the wedge side to keep them blocked.


View thechipcarver's profile


229 posts in 2910 days

#11 posted 03-14-2016 12:15 PM

That is really interesting, I’m to have to look him up on YouTube. Great job with the clamps.
Here was my creation, a couple of days ago.

-- While teaching a class, a gentlemen once asked me: "When chip carving an intricate design, what do you do when you are almost finished and the wood breaks off?" I replied "Cover the kids ears."

View retiredpapa's profile


1 post in 1813 days

#12 posted 01-31-2017 06:37 PM

Just made four sets and they work great. Can someone explain the purpose of the 1” square blocks on the corner? Seem to work fine without them. Izzy’s video does not show the corner blocks being used.

View RustyCas's profile


1 post in 1525 days

#13 posted 11-15-2017 03:51 PM

New here, but 2 comments on this excellent idea. First, the most critical thing is that the inner block is square. I check my saws by cutting one side of a block, then turning that side to the fence, making another cut, etc, until I’ve made 4 cuts. Checking square of the final cut, any error will have been multiplied by 4X.

Regarding squareness of the outside blocks, why fix them in place at all? By substituting a single ‘pivot’ screw (or bolt) in the center of the block, the outside pieces become self-aligning. The wedges no longer need to be identical either. By making the base a little larger, different width outside blocks can be cut for different size “working” thicknesses (1/2, 3/4, 1, 1-1/2”). I would use a threaded insert in the base, and then a “shoulder bolt” for the pivot bolt for the best rigidity.

The idea is that the only critical aspect is that the inside squaring block is perfectly square, and that the clamping pressure is uniform, which it will be if the outer block can pivot.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics