Lidded vase segmented turning

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Project by KCConst posted 11-13-2014 03:00 AM 1614 views 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This was my first segmented anything. I learned that cut accuracy is important. Color variation is more prominent if you alter segments in the same ring. Ring thickness can assist or hinder your project. I guess what I’m really saying is that you should really have a plan, preferably on paper like some of these programs offer. It would help by giving you time to think about other issues like segment alignment. I have done a few turnings but nothing nearly as complicated as this. And flying by the seat of your pants is not a good idea with something like this. So here’s what we have.

1- I decided to do rings with 10 segments. No special reason.
2- I laid out the basic shape I wanted to end with. (Not even close to the result)
3- I started cutting segments from various “scraps” I had laying around. I even used some of my end grain cutting board As a result I had thick and thin, grain mismatches, end grains, you name it. I glued them up anyway and have many of them for future reference. I glued 5 segment “half moons” then sanded two halves to match. I saw this trick somewhere (probably here on LJ so whoever showed that… Thanks)
4- I have the luxury of owning a metal lathe so after the glue had set i put them on the 3 jaw chuck and faced one side of each ring and started stacking them attempting to arrive at something that looked pleasant.
5- I figured out quickly that it was going to be very difficult to try to hog out the center of a deep vessel and since I was making a lid, I found myself having 3 sections. I actually made ” lids” for both outer sections and just glued the bottom one on permanently after I had completed the inner finish.
6- I think I only broke it twice while turning. And when I made the middle section, I loved the burly, crotchy, walnut grain so much I put the angled cut offs together to make something resembling a decanter cap.. It was then that I came up with an idea to use it as part of the lid. Problem was they didn’t all align well at the end. So next solution was to incorporate some cherry burl as a lower ring and matching upper ring/cap. Finally I decided to place the brass finial.
7. I watched a video of some turner using a wax while sanding so I tried that a little. Sort of messy and I just didn’t have much feel for the sanding. The idea was to keep the sanding dust down, but I have a good dust collector so Went from 80 to 220 grit then a final fine sanding with some scotchbrite green pads.
8 . Finished with a light coat of Watco natural and 2 coats of wax.
The vessel is about 8” wide and almost 16” high. The walls are about 1/4” thick in most areas. The lid is solid above the Maple band. (after I broke off two others).

-- "Don't let what you cannot do interfere with what you can do" Wooden

4 comments so far

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

25333 posts in 3989 days

#1 posted 11-13-2014 04:32 AM

Sweet piece. I was looking for genie to come out of it!!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Dutchy's profile


3829 posts in 3052 days

#2 posted 11-13-2014 07:22 AM

WOW, What a beauty and that with the first one. Well done.


View Yuval Eitan's profile

Yuval Eitan

115 posts in 2211 days

#3 posted 11-13-2014 12:39 PM

Great piece, even greater first piece.
Interesting contrust and segment composition.
What did you cut the segments with? (band-, table-, or miter-saw)?
I find that 8 or 12 segment per ring are easier to accurately cut on a mitersaw, as it has positive locks on 15 and 22.5 deg.
Of coarse, building a table saw sled with a dedicated fixed 18deg miter fence, and 10 seg rings go just as easy. But I feel that 12seg rings enable some more diversity in the composition (2, 3, 4, 6), wheras a 10 seg ring is more limiting (2, 5).
The burl in the lid is great. The brass finial is not my cup’o’tea, but hey, the world would be a very dull place if everyone would drink the same tea…
Cheers, thanks for sharing,

-- Knowlege is just like love - it never dilutes, only grows! Sharing it with others just strengthens it

View KCConst's profile


70 posts in 2782 days

#4 posted 11-13-2014 03:26 PM

Yuval thanks for the input comments. Learning the reasons why people choose processes is very valuable. I appreciate you sharing your experiences. My method for the cuts was by table saw with an Osborne Miter gauge. It does not have a fixed 18deg but my method is as follows. I have a Wixie digital Angle gauge on my table saw. I dial in 18 Degrees on the table saw and cut one scrap piece. Then turn the saw blade back up vertical, place the Osborne miter gauge in the slot slide it up by the blade and fit the 18degree cut piece of wood against the miter gauge and saw blade, secure the miter gauge lock nut and I have the 18deg setup. I am extremely pleased with the Osborne. I have made a sled and like its security but have not found a sled to my liking (yet). I have 2 excellent bandsaws and will try that in the near future but find changing blades out for different purposes to be a pain. The end grain of these cuts need to be very square and clean for good alignment unless you want to go another step and sand each one. I hope that answers things for now.

-- "Don't let what you cannot do interfere with what you can do" Wooden

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