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Project Information

This small cabinet is the first piece for a family room remodel. It measures 38" W x 17" d x 24" h. It is built form QSWO (both solid and plywood). The cabinet was built using stub tenons, dado joints and hiddel pocket hole joinery. The cabinet is finished with brownish red Trans Tint dye, General Georgian cherry gel stain, satin Arm-R- Seal and clear Briwax. The finished is a bit darker and redder than previous piecces to match the planned color scheme.

The cabinet consists of a face frame and back panel.





The carcase is made from 0.75" QSWO plywood.

The legs are tapered to give the cabinet an Art & Crafts/Asian appearance. The drawer hardware are bronze mission pulls.





The drawer runners (not shown) are oak with a top guide to keep the drawers from tipping. The drawer boxes are flat sawn oak (photo 3) and use locking miter joints. The drawer front is QSWO.

Overall, a fun and easy project and another item off of my very long to do list.

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Comments

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5,244 Posts
Very nice piece of furniture, it came out great. That will be a fine addition to the family room.
 

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I like the design and the color. think it came out great.
 

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Inovative combination of cabinet and furniture techniques! Looks good and will nicely match your other pieces.

Did you dado the face frame to attach the sides?
 

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Definitely in my top 3 of wood love the design too what a great build
 

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Thanks for the comments. The face frame and back panel are attached to the cabinet with biscuits, glue and hidden pocket hole screws. The pocket holes are located on the top of the sub top and below the bottom shelf. Once the top was added, the pocket holes are covered. I like to build with either no mechanical fasteners or have them hidden from view when they are used.
 

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Vincent, it looks like you did an excellent job of fitting the drawers. I looked at a new Stickley-Audi piece recently and they also used pocket screws in the construction so you are in good company. :D I am curious about your unique bottom arch. How did you come up with that innovation?
 

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Art,

I usually use a fairing stick and 1/4" plywood to draw and template the arches on my pieces. On this cabinet, a shallow arch left too much stock on the bottom of the rail and it looked heavy. A full stock arch left the top part of the rail too narrow. This was the compromise that I came up with. I drew a full arch that intersected center at the top of the rail and then struck a straight lie so that the flat section was about equal to the width of the upper rail. It looked about right to me and that is what I went with on the final piece. I hope this is clear description of the thought process.
 

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That is a good solution. If you are interested, here is a little excel spreadsheet I use:

L = the length of any cord that touches the arc
H = the length of a line from the center of the chord to the arc
R = the radius of the circle

L = 14 for example [input data]
H = 0.75 for example [input data]
R = =((((B5/2)*(B5/2))/B6)+B6)/2 inches
=B7/12 feet

The results of the formulae:

L = 14 for example
H = 0.75 for example
R = 33.0 inches
2.75 feet

Using this, you can decide how much of an arch you want, then make a jig to lay it out. FWIW
 

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Very nice piece. I love the finish. Finishes are something have yet to master. Along with a bunch of other things.
 

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Nice build. I made the exact same one out of Ash, but I have 3 draws instead of 2. Draws are sized to fit a DVD case perfectly.

Sean
 

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