Cedar Jewelry Box

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Project by IsaacSteele posted 09-12-2014 12:05 AM 4051 views 1 time favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

A little project I put together for my wife’s birthday.

Cedar sides with the grain flowing continuously around the miter joints. Maple for the top, bottom, and decorative dovetails.

The drawer fronts were cut out with a scroll saw to keep the clearances to a minimum. There are small neodymium magnets embedded in the fronts and are opened with a corresponding magnet to leave the face clean. Woodburning on the top of the cover and and bottom of the inside tray. Blue flocking on the inside. Green flocking in the drawers and tray. Brown flocking for the drawers to ride in.

Hope y’all enjoy!

7 comments so far

View BCDesign's profile


541 posts in 2917 days

#1 posted 09-12-2014 12:26 AM

Thats really cool,how did you do the dovetails,they really stand out!

-- "The secret of getting ahead is getting started" Mark Twain

View IsaacSteele's profile


22 posts in 3228 days

#2 posted 09-12-2014 03:42 AM

Basic Faux Dovetails with a dovetail router bit on a jig and a table saw for the spline. There are pages in a google search describing the process in more detail than I could provide in here. Glad you enjoyed.

View SteveGaskins's profile


762 posts in 4081 days

#3 posted 09-13-2014 02:56 PM

Love the box and the scripture. Great job. Thanks for posting.

-- Steve, South Carolina,

View IsaacSteele's profile


22 posts in 3228 days

#4 posted 09-13-2014 09:00 PM

Thanks so much!

View Mtwoodwrkr's profile


8 posts in 2295 days

#5 posted 04-22-2016 03:37 PM

Beautiful job!
What is your technique for burning the lettering?

-- "Cut it two times, it is still too short"

View helluvawreck's profile


32122 posts in 4361 days

#6 posted 04-22-2016 03:47 PM

This is a nice jewelry box.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View IsaacSteele's profile


22 posts in 3228 days

#7 posted 04-29-2016 10:49 PM

I print a reverse image onto waxed paper taped to normal printer paper. The ink won’t dry on the wax and I can “very carefully” apply that image to a smoothly sanded piece of wood. Sometimes the transfer is so clean, I’m almost tempted to leave it as the finished product, but more often it’s at least a little spotty. Either way it provides more than sufficient lines for freehand tracing with a wood burner, and you can do basically anything you can print. Be prepared to sand of and re-apply a few times when getting the hang of it.

It helps to use a software that has ruler marks so you know the size you will be printing and have a gray box outline or corner lines around the letters or design. Then you can mark the dimensions of your outline on the wood in pencil and start your transfer on those marks. It makes it easier to ensure you get it perfectly where you want it on the first try. The grey lines will be faint and can easily be sanded off after wood burning. Burning goes far deeper than the ink and a quick light sanding will take off not only the excess ink but any slight errors in the burning.

Beautiful job!
What is your technique for burning the lettering?

- Mtwoodwrkr

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