Arts and Crafts 6 Drawer Dresser

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Blog series by pintodeluxe updated 02-04-2013 05:30 PM 11 parts 82646 reads 49 comments total

Part 1: Legs and Side Panel Glueups

12-11-2012 06:30 PM by pintodeluxe | 4 comments »

I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. I cut strips of 3/4” quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4” thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32”. That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. I then milled s...

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Part 2: Rabbets and Mortises

12-14-2012 09:21 AM by pintodeluxe | 3 comments »

Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.Rabbeting the back legs for the rear plywood panels. I chose plywood over solid wood for some dimensional stability. The rabbets are stopped 1-1/2” from the bottom of the legs to match the location of the side rails.Mortising for pegs at the side rail locations.Mortising for pegs at the front rail location.Legs complete.Panels were glued up in two stages – first two pairs of 3/4” boards were joined. Then those 10” wide panel...

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Part 3: Scraping, Sanding, and Staining Panels

12-17-2012 05:40 AM by pintodeluxe | 3 comments »

I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2” thick panels for the dresser sides. I sharpened a fresh burr on the card scraper so it was cutting quickly. I use it on trouble spots, like tearout from the planer. I setup the tablesaw with a dado set and a sacrificial fence to cut the rabbets on the panels. They are rabbeted on the inside edge, which will produce a flat panel look on the outside of the dresser. I could have used plywood, but it can be tough to find quartersawn ...

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Part 4: Template Routing and Frame & Panel Glueup

12-23-2012 06:13 AM by pintodeluxe | 6 comments »

If I have more that 2 parts to shape, I will make a template out of mdf. I prefer a nice solid jig made from 3/4” mdf with toggle clamps, however since I only had 4 lower side rails to make I kept it simple. After rough cutting the curve at the bandsaw, I used a 1/4” thick template carpet-taped to my workpiece. A pattern bit mounted in the router table makes quick work of cutting the gentle curves. I try to rout “downhill” on curved pieces. In other words,...

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Part 5: Glueup in the Front, Dados in the Back

12-28-2012 05:33 AM by pintodeluxe | 5 comments »

I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable. The plywood back fits into a rabbet in the rear leg. The side panels feature floating panels. They are glued only at the center to allow some wood movement. While gluing the side panels, I centered the wood panel for an even reveal on all sides. I cut 1/4” deep dados into the 1/2” plywood back. These dados will lo...

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Part 6: Web Frames

01-02-2013 08:53 PM by pintodeluxe | 1 comment »

It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...

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Part 7: Clamshell Biscuits, And Building a Flat Top Panel

01-07-2013 06:39 PM by pintodeluxe | 3 comments »

Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. --The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.--The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. --The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps cen...

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Part 8: Backsplash Inlay and Trimming Top

01-13-2013 08:04 AM by pintodeluxe | 2 comments »

With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail. ----I cut a double sided taper on the backsplash piece using a tapering jig at the tablesaw. ----I saved my offcuts to make wedge shapes. The wedges were glued back onto the backsplash. I was careful to place the wedge in its original position so the grain would align. ---- The backsplash is carpet taped to a strip of MDF. This creates a straight reference point to cut shallow dados for m...

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Part 9: Dovetail Drawers , Spraying Shellac

01-22-2013 06:03 AM by pintodeluxe | 2 comments »

Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...

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Part 10: Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers

02-01-2013 09:08 PM by pintodeluxe | 12 comments »

With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.-----Oil based stain was applied to the carcases and drawer fronts. I sprayed the carcases, and wiped stain on the drawer fronts. -----Then I sprayed two coats of lacquer, scuff sanding between coats. ----- Next I install the Centerline full extension drawer slides. Having web frames is convienent, and I simply set the slides down on the web frames. -----I use a jig to align the slides. ...

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Part 11: Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls

02-04-2013 05:30 PM by pintodeluxe | 8 comments »

I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool – and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. ----- For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3” on center. -----I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bo...

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