YouTube on Laguna 1412 Mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUXWDP5DyNo&t=21s
I love the re-saw fence on the Laguna 1412 bandsaw, but I didn’t use it in flat mode much. It tends to take a lot of table space, and is actually a little lower than I like. So I made an “Everyday” fence that is 2-1/4” tall, and it works great for notching, joinery work, and most routine bandsaw cuts that require a fence.
I wanted to be able to switch back and forth between the tall re-saw fence and the everyday fence with ease. It needed to be 1. Tool-Free, and 2. Use the same hardware for both fences. Here’s what I came up with.
This is the stock fence in re-saw mode, and I love this setup. Best fence in the business for resawing in my opinion. I like the rail and “knuckle” assembly that rides the rail too. These components are solid and well-built, yet glide easily across the table on a nylon insert.
Here is the stock fence in flat mode. I don’t care for this mode very much, and I find it a little too low for most cuts. I found myself always using the tall resaw fence, but that’s not safe.
So I made this little gem of a fence.
Laminate three strips of hardwood together, and carefully square the blank. Leave it oversized for now, and plow a groove at least as wide as your miter track hardware.
Trim the blank to final height. The groove will accommodate a miter combo track.
Make the height of the fence such that it will be flush with the miter track, once the plastic laminate is installed.
Laminate the top of the fence first, then trim it flush with a router.
Laminate the face of the fence next. Trim the laminate once it’s installed.
This is what the finished fence looks like. It is solid in operation and locks down firmly, just like the stock arrangement.
I used a combination miter track / T-track from Woodcraft. You only use the miter track slot, but the larger aluminum extrusion adds to the overall rigidity of the fence.
Replace the single nut/threaded bar with two 5/16 – 18 threaded miter inserts (Woodcraft). Turn the miter inserts sideways to use the stock fence, or vertically for the custom fence. The threaded knobs are the original stock knobs.
Here’s a better look at the miter inserts. FYI, you’ll also need to add a 5/16” washer on each knob. This helps the fence tighten up properly in either re-saw mode or everyday fence mode. The washer goes on the knob side.
Look for upcoming blogs on a small outfeed table that bolts to the 1412 bandsaw, and DC mods for the 1412.
Cheers.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
11 comments so far
sras
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5765 posts in 4105 days
#1 posted 12-01-2020 02:21 AM
Nice upgrade!
-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive
pintodeluxe
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6298 posts in 3789 days
#2 posted 12-01-2020 03:50 AM
Hey Steve,
Thanks. I’m always coming up with tool modifications to suite my needs. It’s fun to get everything dialed in the way you like.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
Andybb
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3069 posts in 1579 days
#3 posted 12-01-2020 05:35 AM
Since I am the self-proclaimed president of the 1412 fan club I will be most interested in what people come up with.
Not as nice as yours but the same idea. Just a T-slot in some MDF.

I left the screws out of the top of the front panel and added a knob and a floorboard for the neatly organized bandsaw jigs I have made.
Waiting for DC ideas but this does a relatively decent job.

-- Andy - Seattle USA
pintodeluxe
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6298 posts in 3789 days
#4 posted 12-01-2020 05:44 AM
Wow Andy,
Those are some neat ideas. Couple questions for you… Does your MDF fence use the factory hardware to secure it to the saw?
Also, on the access hatch you concocted…
Is anything needed to keep the “door” closed? Magnets?
Thanks for sharing.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
Andybb
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3069 posts in 1579 days
#5 posted 12-01-2020 05:50 AM
Yes. Factory hardware.
No. Actually, it’s a tight fit and will only close as far as in the picture. You might need to lay the saw on its back to get the screws out. Saw this on a youtube channel a few years ago so I can’t take credit for the idea.
-- Andy - Seattle USA
pintodeluxe
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6298 posts in 3789 days
#6 posted 12-01-2020 06:02 AM
Thanks for the details.
Much appreciated.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
Andre
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4134 posts in 2782 days
#7 posted 12-01-2020 06:25 AM
Nice upgrade, I cheated, bought a Excalibur fence for my General, only one I could find that was big/long enough.
Did build a re-saw fence that is held in place with some Mag Magnets
-- Lifting one end of the plank.
whope
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236 posts in 3421 days
#8 posted 12-02-2020 07:41 PM
I like my 1412. It doesn’t see a lot of use, but I have a lot of re-sawing to do and I hope your blog will eventually answer my issues:
1- How do you get the ceramic guides set? I’m always fiddling with them and they don’t seem to be buying me anything.
2- How do you get rid of the blade drift. My Resaw King tends to move towards the fence. I’ve tried to adjust the fence alignment, but not getting good results.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an Hammer.
pintodeluxe
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6298 posts in 3789 days
#9 posted 12-02-2020 08:11 PM
First and foremost you need to tension and track the blade. Then adjust the thrust ceramic guide to just touch the back of the blade (ratchet handle). Then move the guide assembly forward so the four ceramic guides are just behind the gullet of the blade (small knob at an angle). Finally, slide the ceramic guides in until they just touch the blade.
Having the guides set correctly will help with blade drift. There’s also a blade drift adjustment detailed in Laguna’s YouTube series on the 1412.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
Andybb
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3069 posts in 1579 days
#10 posted 12-02-2020 08:32 PM
My 1412 has tracked with no drift for 2 years right out of the box but the directions in the Laguna vids should help you tweak it.
I put a sheet of paper between the guides and the blade and tighten them down then adjust the rear guide so it just barely touches the blade.
My 3/4” Resaw King is just plain sweet. Resawing hardwoods is the main reason I bought it and it has never let me down. Accurate 12” tall thin slices of anything I’ve thrown at it for 3 years.
-- Andy - Seattle USA
pintodeluxe
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6298 posts in 3789 days
#11 posted 12-07-2020 05:33 PM
I added a T-track in the fence for a stop block.
Works great with those little overmolded knobs from Rockler.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
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