LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Nakashima / Krenov Nightstand

22K views 19 replies 11 participants last post by  Mean_Dean 
#1 ·
Intro

Ok Jocks, this blog series will cover a nightstand I am building based on a Krenov display cabinet (for the inside) and Nkashima's "Rose's Night Stand". The design is mostly in my head, so I dont have any formal drawings or a sketchup file, but the overall dimensions will be 14"D x 16"W x 27"H. Here is a picture of the inspiration..



And the inside of the Nightstand will have a shelf and 3 drawers. The case will be made with mitered edge dovetails, and will have some stopped dadoes and piston fit drawers.

The cabinet will be mostly Sapele wood, with walnut used for the drawer fronts and door panel.

For me, there are a lot of firsts in this project, so I thought I'd take some pictures, and blog about it. Before we start, here's a list of all the stuff new to me:

1. Mitered edge dovetails
2. First Case construction
3. first drawer build
4. half-blind dovetails
5. piston fit drawers
6. frame and panel door
7. inset door
8. offset knife hinge install

This is definitely the most challenging project I've tackled to date, and it was definitely meant to be challenging.

Part 2 will be comprised of the case construction, specifically the mitered edge dovetails.

thanks for looking.
 
See less See more
1
#2 ·
Case Construction

Alright, lets get started.

The goal today was to get the case dry fit, and that means cutting the mitered edge dovetails.

here is what the goal is:
Brown Wood Rectangle Table Material property


The point of this joint is to get a nice through dovetail, without the butt joint in the front.

I want the nightstand to be mitered on both the front and back of the case, so we have 16 miters to cut.

We'll start with our panels glued up, flattened and cut to final size:
Table Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor


Now, with a marking gauge set for the panel thickness, we layout our baseline. Because of the mitered edge we DO NOT need to scribe the edge of any of the boards. I'll cover this in a moment.
Wood Household hardware Tool Fastener Hardwood


Now, I am planning for the case back to be 1/4" thick, so I need to make the half pin large enough to accommodate the groove.
Wood Flooring Wood stain Hardwood Table


There are several ways to proceed from here, depending on if you do pins or tails first, and on how you layout the dovetails (dividers, etc). I am cutting tails first on the bandsaw using a 10 degree hook.

The beauty of the bandsaw method is that you get symmetrical tails relatively easily. Its also repeatable, you cut all 4 sides (top, bottom, front, back) with one setting.
Table Wood Yellow Floor Flooring


When you get to the middle of the board, you can pretty much adjust and get the exact size pin you want, and still keep symmetrical tails.

Even with the mitered edge, we need to cut all of the tails, the only difference is we DO NOT cut the half tail from the edge, leave those for now. You can remove the waste at the bandsaw, or like I did, with a coping saw.

Now some chisel work to clean up the joint. Chop down about halfway, and then flip to finish.
Wood Rectangle Flooring Tints and shades Beige


Notice we still havent done anything with the half tail or miter yet. The reason for this is that it makes laying out the tails MUCH easier. Every other tutorial or video i saw cuts the miter first, but this makes it difficult to make a good knife line when laying out the pins. So the next step is to transfer the lines to the pin boards.
Tire Wheel Wood Rectangle Wood stain


NOW we can cut the miter on the tail board. Using a marking knife, mark from the baseline to the corner using a square on a 45 degree angle.
Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I have had best results cutting right on the line, and using the joint straight off the saw. The goal is to get a nice crisp edge on the outer side and the baseline.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Shipping box


Then cut all of the pins EXCEPT the outer half pin marks.
Rectangle Wood Beige Hardwood Carton


Next, we will cut the miters. We are going to cut along the marks made for the half pin holding the saw at 45 degree from horizontal. We want the cut to go from the top of the board to the baseline WITHOUT CUTTING THROUGH THE SHOW SIDE. Then we cut the miter on the edge the same as the tail board.
Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Material property


Wood Beige Floor Wood stain Flooring


Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Triangle Hardwood


I should mention that I like a saw with very little set, in this case I use a Japanese Dozuki.

Now we are left with this. I think the results are decent, and should close up with glue and some clamp pressure.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Automotive exterior


Now rinse, wash, and repeat for a 4 sided case!
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


The plan for tomorrow is to tackle the drawer dust frame and the case back.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Case Construction

Alright, lets get started.

The goal today was to get the case dry fit, and that means cutting the mitered edge dovetails.

here is what the goal is:
Brown Wood Rectangle Table Material property


The point of this joint is to get a nice through dovetail, without the butt joint in the front.

I want the nightstand to be mitered on both the front and back of the case, so we have 16 miters to cut.

We'll start with our panels glued up, flattened and cut to final size:
Table Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor


Now, with a marking gauge set for the panel thickness, we layout our baseline. Because of the mitered edge we DO NOT need to scribe the edge of any of the boards. I'll cover this in a moment.
Wood Household hardware Tool Fastener Hardwood


Now, I am planning for the case back to be 1/4" thick, so I need to make the half pin large enough to accommodate the groove.
Wood Flooring Wood stain Hardwood Table


There are several ways to proceed from here, depending on if you do pins or tails first, and on how you layout the dovetails (dividers, etc). I am cutting tails first on the bandsaw using a 10 degree hook.

The beauty of the bandsaw method is that you get symmetrical tails relatively easily. Its also repeatable, you cut all 4 sides (top, bottom, front, back) with one setting.
Table Wood Yellow Floor Flooring


When you get to the middle of the board, you can pretty much adjust and get the exact size pin you want, and still keep symmetrical tails.

Even with the mitered edge, we need to cut all of the tails, the only difference is we DO NOT cut the half tail from the edge, leave those for now. You can remove the waste at the bandsaw, or like I did, with a coping saw.

Now some chisel work to clean up the joint. Chop down about halfway, and then flip to finish.
Wood Rectangle Flooring Tints and shades Beige


Notice we still havent done anything with the half tail or miter yet. The reason for this is that it makes laying out the tails MUCH easier. Every other tutorial or video i saw cuts the miter first, but this makes it difficult to make a good knife line when laying out the pins. So the next step is to transfer the lines to the pin boards.
Tire Wheel Wood Rectangle Wood stain


NOW we can cut the miter on the tail board. Using a marking knife, mark from the baseline to the corner using a square on a 45 degree angle.
Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I have had best results cutting right on the line, and using the joint straight off the saw. The goal is to get a nice crisp edge on the outer side and the baseline.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Shipping box


Then cut all of the pins EXCEPT the outer half pin marks.
Rectangle Wood Beige Hardwood Carton


Next, we will cut the miters. We are going to cut along the marks made for the half pin holding the saw at 45 degree from horizontal. We want the cut to go from the top of the board to the baseline WITHOUT CUTTING THROUGH THE SHOW SIDE. Then we cut the miter on the edge the same as the tail board.
Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Material property


Wood Beige Floor Wood stain Flooring


Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Triangle Hardwood


I should mention that I like a saw with very little set, in this case I use a Japanese Dozuki.

Now we are left with this. I think the results are decent, and should close up with glue and some clamp pressure.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Automotive exterior


Now rinse, wash, and repeat for a 4 sided case!
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


The plan for tomorrow is to tackle the drawer dust frame and the case back.
Looking great, I love both styles.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Back Panel and Dust Frame

So far I have covered the basic case construction. Next we need to add the back panel and make the dust frame (or web frame) for the drawer. This will also serve as the installation point for the upper knife hinge.

So, I started by gluing up a 1/4" panel of Sapele for the back, using the router bit as a guide for the final thickness.
Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Rectangle


Next, we can cut the groove in the case pieces to accept the panel. I am using a 1/4" straight bit and cutting 3/16" deep. We don't have to worry about stopping the groove, as the mitered corners will hide it. It is critical though that we get a clean cut, so I put a good amount of pressure against the router's base to prevent the cut from wandering.
Table saws Wood Milling Saw Gas


Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Hardwood


Repeat this for all the case parts, and then dry fit the case to check the alignment. Any adjustments can be made with a few shavings from a hand plane.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Audio equipment Gas


Now, for the dust frame.

With the parts cut over sized, I want to start with the stopped dado that will house the frame. I know I want the drawer to be 4" deep, so I measure four inches from the dovetail baseline, and make a pencil mark. I also want to stop the cut before the front edge, so I make a mark about 3/8" from the front edge.
Wood Beige Rectangle Tints and shades Shade


I'll then set down a straight guide (scrap wood block) to guide the router. I need to make a plunge cut here, and stop just shy of the marks made earlier. I'll also stop shy of cutting through the groove holding the back panel. I'll then square up the cut with a chisel.
Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Hardwood


Next, I need to size the parts to fit, and cut a small notch that will extend the front piece past the end of the stopped dado and rest flush with the front of the case.
Wood Wall Floor Table Wood stain


Wood Beige Flooring Rectangle Hardwood


Then, I'll glue the parts together with a simple butt joint, and start to prepare the frame and panel door parts.
Wood Flooring Hardwood Art Rectangle


Wood Gas Engineering Machine Auto part


Part #4 will cover the frame and panel door and hopefully a successful knife hinge install.

Thanks for looking.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Back Panel and Dust Frame

So far I have covered the basic case construction. Next we need to add the back panel and make the dust frame (or web frame) for the drawer. This will also serve as the installation point for the upper knife hinge.

So, I started by gluing up a 1/4" panel of Sapele for the back, using the router bit as a guide for the final thickness.
Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Rectangle


Next, we can cut the groove in the case pieces to accept the panel. I am using a 1/4" straight bit and cutting 3/16" deep. We don't have to worry about stopping the groove, as the mitered corners will hide it. It is critical though that we get a clean cut, so I put a good amount of pressure against the router's base to prevent the cut from wandering.
Table saws Wood Milling Saw Gas


Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Hardwood


Repeat this for all the case parts, and then dry fit the case to check the alignment. Any adjustments can be made with a few shavings from a hand plane.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Audio equipment Gas


Now, for the dust frame.

With the parts cut over sized, I want to start with the stopped dado that will house the frame. I know I want the drawer to be 4" deep, so I measure four inches from the dovetail baseline, and make a pencil mark. I also want to stop the cut before the front edge, so I make a mark about 3/8" from the front edge.
Wood Beige Rectangle Tints and shades Shade


I'll then set down a straight guide (scrap wood block) to guide the router. I need to make a plunge cut here, and stop just shy of the marks made earlier. I'll also stop shy of cutting through the groove holding the back panel. I'll then square up the cut with a chisel.
Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Hardwood


Next, I need to size the parts to fit, and cut a small notch that will extend the front piece past the end of the stopped dado and rest flush with the front of the case.
Wood Wall Floor Table Wood stain


Wood Beige Flooring Rectangle Hardwood


Then, I'll glue the parts together with a simple butt joint, and start to prepare the frame and panel door parts.
Wood Flooring Hardwood Art Rectangle


Wood Gas Engineering Machine Auto part


Part #4 will cover the frame and panel door and hopefully a successful knife hinge install.

Thanks for looking.
Looks good. Nice work.
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Krenov Style Interior

A big challenge of this project has been sequencing. Last post i thought the next step would be to tackle the door and knife hinges, but I think I got ahead of my self.

First, I needed to make the Krenov Style Shelf on the inside. I'll be making this out of walnut, so I prepared the stock. Then I need to rout 3 stopped dadoes on the case bottom and sides to house the shelf. Notice that the bottom groove is not quite centered and the side grooves are at different heights.
Wood Rectangle Flooring Beige Floor


Wood Bookcase Shelf Shelving Floor


The top shelf is joined with another mitered edge dovetail, and the lower shelf is fitted into a grove in the vertical divider.

Next, I needed to surface prep the inside of the cabinet. This meant pulling everything apart, getting out the smoothing plane and then sanding up to 220. I only surfaced the inside, everything on the outside will be accessible later.
Hood Wood Table Table saws Workbench


Then, with all the interior parts sanded, I can layout the knife hinge locations.
The offset from the cabinet sides should be the thickness of the spacer in the hinge, which was the thickness of one of my card scrapers. Using the scraper as a spacer against the side, the hinge is positioned so that half of the hole hangs over the front edge.
Wood Collar Sleeve Tints and shades Hardwood


I used a marking knife to scribe around the edge. I do this for the case bottom and the bottom side of the drawer web frame. I then pulled everything apart, and using a 1/8" router bit with the depth set to the hinge thickness, carefully removed the waste.
Brown Wood Beige Flooring Hardwood


Then, using chisels, I cleaned up the hinge mortise. Fits pretty well.
Brown Wood Flooring Wood stain Plank


With that done, I decided to glue up the cabinet, that way I can really get a good measurement for my door frame.
Wood Engineering Gas Machine tool Machine


I'll let this set over night, and tomorrow i will begin the frame and panel door, followed by drawer construction.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Krenov Style Interior

A big challenge of this project has been sequencing. Last post i thought the next step would be to tackle the door and knife hinges, but I think I got ahead of my self.

First, I needed to make the Krenov Style Shelf on the inside. I'll be making this out of walnut, so I prepared the stock. Then I need to rout 3 stopped dadoes on the case bottom and sides to house the shelf. Notice that the bottom groove is not quite centered and the side grooves are at different heights.
Wood Rectangle Flooring Beige Floor


Wood Bookcase Shelf Shelving Floor


The top shelf is joined with another mitered edge dovetail, and the lower shelf is fitted into a grove in the vertical divider.

Next, I needed to surface prep the inside of the cabinet. This meant pulling everything apart, getting out the smoothing plane and then sanding up to 220. I only surfaced the inside, everything on the outside will be accessible later.
Hood Wood Table Table saws Workbench


Then, with all the interior parts sanded, I can layout the knife hinge locations.
The offset from the cabinet sides should be the thickness of the spacer in the hinge, which was the thickness of one of my card scrapers. Using the scraper as a spacer against the side, the hinge is positioned so that half of the hole hangs over the front edge.
Wood Collar Sleeve Tints and shades Hardwood


I used a marking knife to scribe around the edge. I do this for the case bottom and the bottom side of the drawer web frame. I then pulled everything apart, and using a 1/8" router bit with the depth set to the hinge thickness, carefully removed the waste.
Brown Wood Beige Flooring Hardwood


Then, using chisels, I cleaned up the hinge mortise. Fits pretty well.
Brown Wood Flooring Wood stain Plank


With that done, I decided to glue up the cabinet, that way I can really get a good measurement for my door frame.
Wood Engineering Gas Machine tool Machine


I'll let this set over night, and tomorrow i will begin the frame and panel door, followed by drawer construction.
Just read through this blog and have enjoyed it a lot. Keep them comming!
-Looking forward to the result
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Drawers and Door Part 1

It was one of those days in the shop…

I was sorely tempted to leave today out of this blog, but I have decided on full disclosure. I don't want to give the impression that this project is perfect, and I will admit that this is the most challenging project I have done to date, as I intended it to be. So here goes.

I had milled up the boards for the rails and stiles of the frame and panel door, only to find them warped and twisted when I returned. I haven't had this issue in the past with the Sapele or any other wood in my shop, as it has had lots of time to adjust to the conditions. So, I am guessing that there were some internal stresses at play, or, due to a recent cold spell with some rain.

So, moving forward, I milled some new pieces, only to ruin one by cutting it a hair too short, and another to the router base slipping as I cut the groove for the panel. With frustrations reaching a boiling point, I decided that fate had determined that I was not to tackle the door today.

On to the main drawer….

I milled up the pieces with no trouble (walnut for the front, and poplar for the sides. I was tempted by some birds eye maple for the sides at my local store, but couldn't justify $60 drawer sides. So poplar it is. Still undecided on the drawer bottoms, I may use some spanish cedar I have laying around, but I'm not sure about the smell.
Wood Line Art Office equipment Tool


Now, I had planned on a "piston fit" drawer attempt.

I will not insult many of the fine craftsmen (and women) in the LJ's community by calling my drawer a true "piston fit", so from here on we will refer to it as and "closely inset" drawer.

The first part of fitting is to get a close or even tight fit of the drawer front.
Wood Audio equipment Shelving Wood stain Hardwood


Then get a goof fit on the drawer sides, focusing more on the fit vertically than anything else, I will trim them to length later.
Wood Shelving Wood stain Shelf Hardwood


I am also not concerned about the drawer back or bottom right now, I will cover those later, the true fit of the drawer is in the front and sides.

The joinery on the drawer front will be half blind dovetails, and I will admit, these are the first half blind dovetails I have ever done, didn't even bother to practice.

Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain Rectangle


If you have been reading my previous post, you may have gathered that I like tails first and to use the bandsaw for the tails, mostly because it makes for easy layout. But with the drawer sides being relatively small, I cut them by hand, and laid it out with the old eye test.

So, after fighting with the door for way too long, all I have to show for today is a drawer that doesn't have a back or a bottom, but it does seem to be coming together, and though I won't (or shouldn't) call it a piston fit, there is little slop and a passably even gap on the edges.

Tomorrow the goal is to get a door done, and finish the main drawer, and then mill the stock for the internal drawers.
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Drawers and Door Part 1

It was one of those days in the shop…

I was sorely tempted to leave today out of this blog, but I have decided on full disclosure. I don't want to give the impression that this project is perfect, and I will admit that this is the most challenging project I have done to date, as I intended it to be. So here goes.

I had milled up the boards for the rails and stiles of the frame and panel door, only to find them warped and twisted when I returned. I haven't had this issue in the past with the Sapele or any other wood in my shop, as it has had lots of time to adjust to the conditions. So, I am guessing that there were some internal stresses at play, or, due to a recent cold spell with some rain.

So, moving forward, I milled some new pieces, only to ruin one by cutting it a hair too short, and another to the router base slipping as I cut the groove for the panel. With frustrations reaching a boiling point, I decided that fate had determined that I was not to tackle the door today.

On to the main drawer….

I milled up the pieces with no trouble (walnut for the front, and poplar for the sides. I was tempted by some birds eye maple for the sides at my local store, but couldn't justify $60 drawer sides. So poplar it is. Still undecided on the drawer bottoms, I may use some spanish cedar I have laying around, but I'm not sure about the smell.
Wood Line Art Office equipment Tool


Now, I had planned on a "piston fit" drawer attempt.

I will not insult many of the fine craftsmen (and women) in the LJ's community by calling my drawer a true "piston fit", so from here on we will refer to it as and "closely inset" drawer.

The first part of fitting is to get a close or even tight fit of the drawer front.
Wood Audio equipment Shelving Wood stain Hardwood


Then get a goof fit on the drawer sides, focusing more on the fit vertically than anything else, I will trim them to length later.
Wood Shelving Wood stain Shelf Hardwood


I am also not concerned about the drawer back or bottom right now, I will cover those later, the true fit of the drawer is in the front and sides.

The joinery on the drawer front will be half blind dovetails, and I will admit, these are the first half blind dovetails I have ever done, didn't even bother to practice.

Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain Rectangle


If you have been reading my previous post, you may have gathered that I like tails first and to use the bandsaw for the tails, mostly because it makes for easy layout. But with the drawer sides being relatively small, I cut them by hand, and laid it out with the old eye test.

So, after fighting with the door for way too long, all I have to show for today is a drawer that doesn't have a back or a bottom, but it does seem to be coming together, and though I won't (or shouldn't) call it a piston fit, there is little slop and a passably even gap on the edges.

Tomorrow the goal is to get a door done, and finish the main drawer, and then mill the stock for the internal drawers.
Looking good. I'm reading along though I haven't commented until now.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Drawers and Door Part 2

The goal today was to get the main drawer finished and to hang the frame an panel door.

First, I finished preparing the drawer back, panel, and sanded to 220 for the inside parts. Then on to glue up.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Flooring


Wood Hardwood Flooring Gas Machine


But Wait!

The drawer face was initially fitted to be tight in the opening… BUT… the pins on the drawer front were proud of the drawer sides (tail boards), meaning to get a flush fit, I had to take material off the edge of the drawer front, ruining the fit, and leaving me with a pretty unacceptable gap on the drawer sides relative to the opening.

So, I was able to get the drawer apart, and make a new drawer front.

Now, on to the frame and panel door…

I prepared the stock and cut a 1/4" groove centered on the rails and stiles to accept the panel. First, I sized the vertical stiles to fit snug in the opening.
Table Wood Computer desk Wood stain Floor


Next, I cut the rails oversized, and crept up on making a stub tenon to slide in the groove of the stile.
Then I began to fit the panel. I could use the exact length of the rail to size the panel horizontally, and slowly crept up on the size vertically. Then off to glue and some plane work to flatten it after. The panel was sanded to 220 prior to glue up.

Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain Hardwood


I then fit and cut the knife hinge mortise on the door. Sorry for the lack of pictures, I just didn't take as many today.

Then I tested the fit by hanging the doors. The result is far from perfect, but I am satisfied. This piece is for personal use, if I was selling it, I might consider a re-do. I am a little dissatisfied by the size of the gaps.

Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain


Tomorrow I am planning on making some kind of magnetic catch for the door, pulls for the door an drawer. And then it will be on to fitting drawers on the inside, and finally tackling the base.

Thanks for looking. Critique is always welcome.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Drawers and Door Part 2

The goal today was to get the main drawer finished and to hang the frame an panel door.

First, I finished preparing the drawer back, panel, and sanded to 220 for the inside parts. Then on to glue up.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Flooring


Wood Hardwood Flooring Gas Machine


But Wait!

The drawer face was initially fitted to be tight in the opening… BUT… the pins on the drawer front were proud of the drawer sides (tail boards), meaning to get a flush fit, I had to take material off the edge of the drawer front, ruining the fit, and leaving me with a pretty unacceptable gap on the drawer sides relative to the opening.

So, I was able to get the drawer apart, and make a new drawer front.

Now, on to the frame and panel door…

I prepared the stock and cut a 1/4" groove centered on the rails and stiles to accept the panel. First, I sized the vertical stiles to fit snug in the opening.
Table Wood Computer desk Wood stain Floor


Next, I cut the rails oversized, and crept up on making a stub tenon to slide in the groove of the stile.
Then I began to fit the panel. I could use the exact length of the rail to size the panel horizontally, and slowly crept up on the size vertically. Then off to glue and some plane work to flatten it after. The panel was sanded to 220 prior to glue up.

Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain Hardwood


I then fit and cut the knife hinge mortise on the door. Sorry for the lack of pictures, I just didn't take as many today.

Then I tested the fit by hanging the doors. The result is far from perfect, but I am satisfied. This piece is for personal use, if I was selling it, I might consider a re-do. I am a little dissatisfied by the size of the gaps.

Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain


Tomorrow I am planning on making some kind of magnetic catch for the door, pulls for the door an drawer. And then it will be on to fitting drawers on the inside, and finally tackling the base.

Thanks for looking. Critique is always welcome.
Love the grain combo and the contrasting of the two

types of wood. Great work!
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Inside Drawers

It's been a few days, so I'm now nearing the end of this project.

On today's list was to get the interior drawers made up. So first, I had to prepare the stock for the drawer "case" and "runners". I went with Sapele for these to continue the contrast between the walnut and sapele.

There's four drawers all together, the top two are 2 1/2" and the bottom two are 3".
Shelf Bookcase Wood Shelving Wood stain


The drawers are going to mimic the main drawer of the cabinet, meaning walnut faces with poplar sides, and half-blind dovetail joinery.

As explained in part 1 of this blog, this is the first time I have tackled any kind of dovetail, and I found going through this project that the one thing I agree with the "experts" on cutting dovetails, is that they get better and faster the more you cut. By the second and third drawer, I was really in the dovetail groove, and I think they came out well. Some people don't like the look of a larger pin, but I didn't mind it in these drawers.

Handheld power drill Pneumatic tool Wood Hammer drill Drill


Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Office supplies


The next step was to secure the drawer "case" in place. Some glue on the sides and the dadoes made this relatively painless, as the runners made the case fit was rather snug.

But, I have yet to glue the drawers up and fit them, because I am still deciding on the material to use for pulls.

The next part will cover the door catch, the base, and hopefully, the pulls.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Base and Finishing Touches Part 1

With the drawers done, its on to the small things.

First, I have made a decision on the pulls. George Nakashima on his "Rose's Night Stand" after which my project took, uses some sort of natural edge wood block.
Rectangle Wood Cabinetry Wood stain Hardwood


Not to engage in blasphemy, (sorry George) in my opinion, this pull looks a bit chunky to me. I liked the idea though, and have decided to use some Redwood Burl pen blanks for pulls. Here's a tease…
Wood Rectangle Shelf Gesture Wood stain


But, more on that in the next post.

Also, I decided to make a magnetic catch for the door, housed in a walnut strip running along the top of the door. The magnet is set in a recess made by a forstner bit. I'll use a smaller magnet inset in the door frame. The amount of hold doesn't need to be strong, just keep the door secure.
Food Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle Fixture


On to the base.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain


Here is the basic layout. It will fit the length and depth of the cabinet.
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank Flooring


The "curve" and the bridle joints were cut on the bandsaw.
Wood Aircraft Hardwood Airplane Wood stain


There is also a 10 degree angle cut on the ends.

Next part I will continue the small bits, and move on to sanding
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Base and Finishing Touches Part 1

With the drawers done, its on to the small things.

First, I have made a decision on the pulls. George Nakashima on his "Rose's Night Stand" after which my project took, uses some sort of natural edge wood block.
Rectangle Wood Cabinetry Wood stain Hardwood


Not to engage in blasphemy, (sorry George) in my opinion, this pull looks a bit chunky to me. I liked the idea though, and have decided to use some Redwood Burl pen blanks for pulls. Here's a tease…
Wood Rectangle Shelf Gesture Wood stain


But, more on that in the next post.

Also, I decided to make a magnetic catch for the door, housed in a walnut strip running along the top of the door. The magnet is set in a recess made by a forstner bit. I'll use a smaller magnet inset in the door frame. The amount of hold doesn't need to be strong, just keep the door secure.
Food Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle Fixture


On to the base.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain


Here is the basic layout. It will fit the length and depth of the cabinet.
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank Flooring


The "curve" and the bridle joints were cut on the bandsaw.
Wood Aircraft Hardwood Airplane Wood stain


There is also a 10 degree angle cut on the ends.

Next part I will continue the small bits, and move on to sanding
Looking great so far. Good call, using redwood burl for the handle.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Finished

Got the last coat of finish on the nightstand, and now it's done!

About the finishing process. I sanded everything to 220 and then applied General Finishes Seal-a-Cell. Then I applied three coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (semi gloss). I sanded with 400 grit paper between coats.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Cabinetry Shelf Drawer Chest of drawers Rectangle


Wood Drawer Wood stain Varnish Hardwood


Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Finished

Got the last coat of finish on the nightstand, and now it's done!

About the finishing process. I sanded everything to 220 and then applied General Finishes Seal-a-Cell. Then I applied three coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (semi gloss). I sanded with 400 grit paper between coats.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Cabinetry Shelf Drawer Chest of drawers Rectangle


Wood Drawer Wood stain Varnish Hardwood


Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank
Wow! That is beautiful. Great job
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top