Trestle dining table

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Blog series by moshel updated 05-28-2013 11:32 PM 7 parts 13085 reads 28 comments total

Part 1: Making the feet

12-29-2012 01:20 AM by moshel | 6 comments »

This blog will follow my build of a dining trestle table from WOOD magazine #28 (you can see how it looks on the store ( ). The trestle table is very delicate compared to most and uses laminated blanks to be strong enough. the original plan is “fixed” (not breakup) but i will modify it a little. OK, to work:after gluing up the blanks, I cut them roughly to shape on the bandsaw. unlike the plan that calls for exact cut and sanding i...

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Part 2: Making the supports

12-30-2012 02:25 AM by moshel | 1 comment »

now for the supports.The supports are really narrow (~1.5”), so i had to double tape them to get enough support for the router. Technique was the same as with the feet. Here is one support all done with lots of shaving: now all the blanks are resting, waiting for trimming and final sanding (and for me to have some more time):

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Part 3: beam and finishing the uprights

01-16-2013 03:14 AM by moshel | 1 comment »

have some time now, so expect more progress! first, i milled and chamfered the beam. although the plan calls for laminating two 3/4” pieces i used single 1.5” piece as i am making the table easy to break apart and move, the beam will not be glued and doweled to the uprights. to get more lateral strength, i routed dadoes in the upright that fit the beam. as you can see my dado blade leave a groove :-( uprights sanded together to 180P and chamfered accordi...

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Part 4: attaching the beam to the verticlas

01-18-2013 06:59 AM by moshel | 6 comments »

verticals were grouped into pairs, and double taped so the outsides will be face to face (this way the hole will be nice and smooth on the outside). it is important to mark the pairs as the drilling is never the same unless done together. all nice and drilled i did not take pictures of the next stage. you dry assemble the uprights and he beam and mark where to drill with the same bit. again, it is important to keep orientation and affinity to the pair that used for the marking. ...

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Part 5: Putting on finish and assembling the base

02-08-2013 05:05 AM by moshel | 2 comments »

after lots of considerations and tests, i decided to use diluted white acrylic (10 water to one acrylic but your mileage may vary as acrylics are very different one from the other). I brushed it on and wiped it off. the result at first looked like nothing happened but as it dried out it became nicely white. this is how it looks compared to a piece of the same material: and a closeup : the process is very fool proof and easy. just beware of drips… in retrospect i should have dri...

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Part 6: The finished and assembled base

02-08-2013 05:08 AM by moshel | 7 comments »

and here it is!

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Part 7: all done! (Well, the top is probably only temporary)

05-28-2013 11:32 PM by moshel | 5 comments »

the top had to be done from two pieces that can be easily disassembled as it had to pass through narrow staircase and also probably be moved around quite a bit. the thought of waving around 60kg beech top was not really appealing, so i decided at least for now to use DF and have it in two pieces.for finish i used an effect i found out while trying to bleach the base. I mixed tung oil with oxide powder, about 1:1 and rubbed it into the 80 grit sanded DF. the oxide settled into the scratches an...

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