Fixing my obsolete ryobi miter saw blade guard

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Blog entry by moco27 posted 08-19-2019 01:08 PM 1056 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I’ve been using an old ryobi ts1340 10 inch miter saw for years. It’s lightweight and dependable. I had a friend of mine try and change the blade while I was working on the roof. He didn’t know what he was doing and took things apart that shouldn’t have been apart for a blade change. He didn’t get it back together right, made a cut and cut off the bottom half of my blade guard.

The saw was dangerous even after the guard was properly placed on the saw since the bottom 1/4 was missing. I tried to order the part and found that it was discontinued. Every attempt to find a replacement both new and used was unsuccessful. I finally ordered a cheapy on parts warehouse part number HM-080016005704 to see if it would fit. It looked right but everything I read said it wouldn’t fit.

There were a few parts that couldn’t be reused like the black stopper and the old parts on the old blade guard.

The installation wasn’t hard at all but it took a bit of thinking. First I needed to remove the new arm so I drilled out the rivet and replaced it with a #10 screw that was 1 inch long with two additional nuts and a lock nut on the end. I used the two washers to make it glide well. A longer screw would have worked too but definitely not a shorter screw.

I got it to work but it took a bit of re-engineering to make it happen. I couldn’t use the original holes on the metal part of the blade guard and the new plastic blade guard as the didn’t line up. While trying to line everything up I noticed that I needed to remove the black stopper to get everything into position. I saved the screw and lock nut for later use. The most important part to line it up was the screw hole that you would use if you are changing the blade.

Here’s a picture of it and if you notice I had to drill a hole in the plate. The placement of that hole was the hardest part of the installation. The screw needs to slide under the blade guard in a groove that you can’t see very well in the picture. Another consideration is that the blade guard needs to be somewhat close to the same distance from the blade at every point along the guard.

I thought it was important that the plate be somewhat level with the metal blade guard. With the first screw hole drilled and that screw holding the blade guard, I aligned everything and drilled another hole on the opposite side and used the screw and lock nut from the stopper to secure it.

I checked the alignment and checked the operation of the guard as the saw was lowered. Everything worked as it should but I didn’t like the shape of the new guard and bottom roller so I cut it off so that when it lowers onto the wood or table that the roller hits first and the guard rides smoothly over any obstacle.

The only difference with this guard and the original is that to change the blade I need to completely remove the screw to slide the blade guard.

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