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a 21st century bench with engineered wood #12: installing a V-Twin

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Blog entry by metolius posted 04-03-2021 03:29 AM 314 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 11: taming ply voids in the base Part 12 of a 21st century bench with engineered wood series Part 13: top slab completion »

I waited for a while on backorder for Veritas to get a twin screw shipped out. Yet it did come a couple weeks sooner than initially estimated.

The back chop is a piece of 8/4 hickory that has been waiting for a very long time.
The front chop is from the same board, but its a little thinner because I had to plane out a lot of skew.

The original 21st century Lang bench had pieces of wood glued to the bottom of top on each side of the front leg. I chose to work the wood around the leg so that it is all one piece.

To wrap that, I had positioned the chop in place in front of the leg against the bench top and tacked on some scrap to use for with a pattern router bit.

That came together a lot easier than expected.

Veritas instructs that 1.5” holes are driven through each face for the 2 screws, and partially through each for the two guide posts.

To ensure that the chops always have their first grip on the top of the shops, the v-twin instructions require a 7/32 taper on the inner face of the front chop. This is done by running it through a planer with a shim hot melt glued to one side.

After this, I followed with 4 more holes for barrel-nut bench bolts to tie it to the top. Lined it up on the top, and finished the holes into the bench top.

After constructing their recommended dowel-in-scrap jig to find the placement to drill holes on the underside for the barrel-nuts, these were fairly simple to locate.

It all assembled with no additional effort

20 years ago I acquired a couple hides of black upholstery leather that I have been using for projects. Its still as supple as its first day, though I don’t recall how it was tanned. The chops will be lined with bits of that suede side out.

I was about to use double sided tape. but near the last moment I switched to 3M-185 spray adhesive. I carefully cleaned the leather and wood with mineral spirits, spray the 3M on the mating sides, let it set, then press it on with a J-roller.

I don’t know how long this adhesive method will last, but I think it will do well.

After trimming i used some of the trim scraps to leather wrap a hammer handle, screwed on the vise nutz and added some screw blocks to tie it to the leg. I was thinking if the bench is disassembled, I would leave the screw blocks on the leg and remove them from the chops. This way there would be a quick reference of placement.

I added some blocking above the screws.

And then I line it all up well and bolt the top to the legs.

Looking at youtube demonstrations of v-twin installations, I’ve noticed 3 things that are often not done according to the manual because users think they aren’t necessary or they have better ideas.
1 – taper the front chop 2 degrees
2 – only support the lower part of the chain loop, and down support above the line of taught
3 – add support slides under the table to support screws from veritcal skew.

I think these demonstrations breed disappointment.

Here , the screws are in with the chain.

Getting the three parts of the chain cover assembled with 2 hands isn’t fun. Found a quick clamp helps.

I chose to use a threaded insert for the suicide handle, and drill a peg hole in the center to keep the handles from flopping around while they turn.

For the thread guides, I used some Trex decking. I routed with a 1-1/8 diameter core box and installed them above the screws. Trex has a good slick surface that wears out slowly. ( The screws are 1 inch in diameter. )

With a flush plane on the top – we’re done with this part !

Its a nice vise.

-- derek / oregon



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