LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
212K views 123 replies 55 participants last post by  mafe 
#1 ·
Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog

Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!
This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…

Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!


So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.


First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.


Here are the result.


I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.


Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.


Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.


So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).


Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.


I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.


On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.


And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.


Accesory time…
First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).


I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.


The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.


- cut of nail that fits the track.


- put in the hole.


- then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.


Here we are!


Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.


Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.

I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.

Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.

You can see, my original drillpress table post here.

Hope it can be to some inspiration,

Best of thoughts,
MaFe2010
 
See less See more
20
#2 ·
the shelfpin jig is ingenious!

looking at your replaceable inserts which is similar to mine, it brings a good point to view. from my experience the masonite - although cheap, and easy to make inserts with, is a bit too flexible to be used as a backer board, and what I noticed is that the insert would bend down a bit before the drill cuts into it, rendering it useless as a backer board as it does not prevent the tear out it is supposed to. perhaps you are not experiencing this - but I do, which brings me to my point - maybe my inserts are too big allowing them to flex down, or since they are rectangular, the physical forces pushing on them down are not backed up by the support a round insert would have… (just thinking out loud). So, I think I need to redo my DP table at some point. I do have several concepts that I wanted to incorporate as built ins that would eliminate some of my accessories for it.

Thanks for reminding me!
 
#3 ·
Hi PurpLev,
I have been trying to push it really hard, but it seems to be solid, perhaps due to the limited size.
Usually I put always a piece of plywood under when I drill, so I have not really testet.
My concern are that that it will run arround when it gets stuck… But then I will give it a little nail.
And today you could see that a old computer rack can give you the T-tracks! Cool.
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads
 
#6 ·
Yes it's really clever and easy, not my own idea, saw it on the internet from a woodworking magazine.
But I'm vorking on a version for my Festool router rail, and then it will be really easy.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#7 ·
for a slightly better insert, drill the hole off center. this has a nice advantage that you can just rotate it to get zero clearance backer again!!! very useful when drilling two sizes of holes.
 
#8 ·
Nice work Mafe,

your drill press table is nice. I like the shelf pin part the most .

Is that a Chinese green tea can in the back (the red one)?

What resolution did you take those picture at (camera setting)? They are well focused and clean.

Thanks for posting.
 
#9 ·
Hi Ian,
I usually set the camera in P mode, then use my 580ex speedlite flash, a iso 400-800 and the wb on auto, or tungsten light, otherwise I do nothing but point the flash away from the object normally into the ceeling since it's low in my workshop. My camera are a Canon eos 400d, but the secret to sharpness are the lens a 28-135 UMS with image stabilizer since I got that lens photographing has become a pleasure of a new dimension - the images becomes so wonderful sharp.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#12 ·
Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog

Making the vacuumhose holder!
This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…


So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.


First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.


Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.


This is a hole!!!


This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.


Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.


I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…


And now a test set up!


Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.


Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
(that is if you made first part first ofcourse).


Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.


Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).


Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).


Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.


Run it through and ad a washer.


And Viola! Here we go again…


Some final adjustments.


Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.


Mount it on the drillpress.
(I took of the motor).


And the wauuuu effect are there.


And now holes without dust.

I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
(this might be one of the next improvements).

You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.

Hope it can be to some inspiration,

Best of thoughts,
MaFe2010
 
#13 ·
Nice design. One thing that would make it easier to build, when you make the clamp for the post of the drill press (to avoid having to completely remove the top of your drill press) drill for a bolt hole on both sides of the hole for the post, make 2 bolts, then simply cut the clamp in half. Install your bolts and as they say,"Bob's your uncle."
 
#23 ·
Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog

Hold down clamps!
This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…

So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
My solution are quick and dirty…
Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.


First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
(It's at the end of the long silver arm).


Then slide it of.


Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.


Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.


And now ready to hold.


Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.

It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.

You can see, my original drillpress table post here.

Hope it can be to some inspiration,

Best of thoughts,
MaFe2010
 
#33 ·
Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog

Drill press turning
Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.

Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
- But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.


This was how it turned out.


A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.


Now drive a screw into the hole.
(In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).


Now cut the head of the screw.


Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.


Close up!


Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.


Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
(And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).


Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
(But I must admit I had great fun).


Now we are getting there!
I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
(On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).


Time for the files to get to a finer finish.


Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.


Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.


And here we are!


Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
(The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).


Compare or not compare - that's the question!


I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.


The coin!


And the result.
I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.

I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
So there is no excuse for not trying.
I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.


If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.


It will leave only a little mark.

I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,

best thoughts,

MaFe
 
#58 ·
New deep stop for drill press.

Making a new deep stop
Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.

This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.


This is what it is, a deep stop.


This is the old one in red plastic.
Why change it?
Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
(you get what you pay for…).


I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.


Clean up the inside.


Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.


Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
Also now I add a bolt.


The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
And then weld them together.


With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.


This is what I end up with.


After some sanding of my terrible welding…


And here with the bolt in place.


The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.


Now I thread the hole.


Sand of the end of a threaded rod.


The stop is put together.
Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.


This is how it looks when it comes down.

I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.

You can see, my original drill press table post here.

Hope it can be to some inspiration,

Best of thoughts,
Mads
 
#74 ·
Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating

Drill press drum sander table
foot powered oscillating.

I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
Why?
Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
But basically I made it for the joy of making it.


So material are MDF.
First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.


Walls and sides.


Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…


This is the layout.
Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.


The sides are open for clamping.
Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.


Tataaaaa.
Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.


So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…


Base are glued.


Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
Will explain why.
I hope.


Here you see the two layers.


The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.


Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
A few strips of MDF.


Glue.
Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
Again I nailed it with a air nailer.


So now time to play with the router.
I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).


Set the size.


Like this.


Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.


Bingo.
(except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).


But now I can test it.


It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.


Now I make that double top.
I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.


Here glued and nailed in place.


You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.


Now time to make some inserts.


This time I cut on the band saw.


Just rough and the a hole in center.


Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.


Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.


I do this for all my drum sizes.


Cut some holes.


Mount the drum.


And action!


Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.


Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.


Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
Low tech oscillating.
Use grid 60-80 for shaping.


You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.


So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).


Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.


Then ad a bolt and wing nut.


Quick and clean.


Basically that's it.


But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.


Like this, kind of cool I think.


So this is where we say goodbye.
Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.

Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.

The best of my thoughts,
Mads
 
#99 ·
Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...

Drill press drum sander jointer / planer
I just had to…

Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.

After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
Yes and it works.
Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?


I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
So MDF, shape to fit drum.
Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.


So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).


Ok lets make a base for the show.
Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.


Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.


Does it make sense now?
Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.


Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
The infeed table can be lowered.
Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
Marking up for the lift and the cut.
(The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).


Cutting a rabbet for the lift.


Like this.


Off go the top, so it can be lowered.


A top plate are made to stabilize it.


Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.


TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
Why it needed to be mirrored?
Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…


Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
Then some glue.


Outfeed table are fixed.


Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.


And a back side to the box.


I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.


Then the lift are glued together.


Squared up.


Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.


More glue.


More glue and a top with a rabbet.


Now I screw up and in.
Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
Then screw in the top.


A really long screw.
Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.


We got a lift!


Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.


Now I can square it all up.


Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
Then glue on the lift top.
(Here you can see the screwed up MDF).


Two screws and glue should do the job.


Get it?


I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.


All this for fixing…


Ok, we are getting close now.


A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.


Check!


Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…


Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
I hope.


A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.


Two holes.


Epoxy.


Bang!


Ohh yes and I fixed it.


Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.


Here from down under.


Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.


Then fasten the drum to the drill press.


Clamping it in place.
And yes it really works and really well in fact.
So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?

Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.

The best of my thoughts,
Mads
 
#100 ·
If I should start over, I would find the threaded inserts fist, spend too much time fixing and I would make the planner same width as the table, this would make it more easy to clamp in place.
 
#112 ·
Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck

Center jig for drill press
recycled drill chuck.

Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.

The jig:
When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
(I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).


The jig mounted on the drill press table.
This is what we are making here.


The drill chuck I had laying around.
This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
This type has three pins, that I will use.


Some plywood for the base.
A piece that fits the width of the table.


And a couple of extra…


The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.


Like this.


Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.


Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..


The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.


Axel are put in.
The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.


Test fitting.


Glue.


Support pieces are mounted.


Finally also screwed in place.


Finally the chuck can come in place.


And the screw that holds it, put in.


Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.


Now we can bring it to the router table.


To make those rabbets.


Bolts for the mount.


Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.


Finally in place!


Ready to drill.


The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.


When using it:
Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
Tighten the chuck around it.
Fasten the base to the drill press table.
Loosen the base chuck.
Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
Drill.
You should be dead center.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top