Tapered tenon cutter & mortise reamer #4: Tapered Reamer - testing and final layout for cutter

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Blog entry by mafe posted 02-26-2015 11:21 PM 7740 reads 2 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Tapered reamer - making one. Part 4 of Tapered tenon cutter & mortise reamer series Part 5: Tapered cutter - finale »

Tapered Reamer
testing and final layout for cutter

The new reamer need to be tested before I cut into the final cutter.
First of all for the angle I have now chosen.

So I drill another hole in the test piece.

And ‘ream’ it.

It goes really easy and the cut is fine.
So I am a happy monkey for now.

Marking the center.

Then 20 degrees up from there.

The same on the back.

Now you can see how they are offset, due to the tapered hole.

So I can connect them with a line and like this I have my cut marked up.

Then all I have to is try to follow the line.

Better than last time.

It’s the one to the right, just about perfect.

I nail the cut of to the back again for easy clamping.

Test time.
Looks really good.
Happy I am.

A piece of beech wood.

A little to the rough side, so I sharpen the blade…

That’s perfect now.
Look at those shaves.

Really it’s that easy.

Can be done with a broad chisel also.
If you are not into making a dedicated tool as I am aiming for.

See you soon for the final part of the blog, where I will be making the cutter.

Hope it can inspire others to make their own tools.

The best of my thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect.

12 comments so far

View ksSlim's profile


1304 posts in 4341 days

#1 posted 02-26-2015 11:29 PM

Nice job. You make it look so easy.
I might have to try this one.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

View lew's profile


13532 posts in 5207 days

#2 posted 02-27-2015 12:53 AM

Nice, indeed!

That is going to be one fine tapering tool.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View CFrye's profile


11478 posts in 3291 days

#3 posted 02-27-2015 06:11 AM

Looks great, Mads!

-- God bless, Candy

View stefang's profile


17040 posts in 4785 days

#4 posted 02-27-2015 10:00 AM

It looks like you aced it Mads. Very well done. Simple to make once all the brain work is finished. Now with this success I can imagine that a thread cutter might be next?

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Roger's profile


21055 posts in 4255 days

#5 posted 02-27-2015 12:46 PM

Nice one Mads.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. [email protected]

View mafe's profile


13872 posts in 4540 days

#6 posted 02-27-2015 04:08 PM

Hi there,
Roger, smiles here.
Mike, yes I actually need to make a thread cutter at some point since I was given a beautiful old thread tap.
Candy, and now I am done. ;-)
Lew, I am happy, the mechanics and the esthetics goes hand in hand. ;-)
KSslim, now it is easy.
Thanks for the comments makes me happy.
Best thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect.

View swans's profile


2 posts in 2530 days

#7 posted 06-13-2015 03:18 PM

Thank-you very much for sharing this. I’m a carpenter from the UK and I am starting to make some chairs. For my first attempts I have bored the mortise holes cylindrical without a taper so I would like to adapt your design so that the rounder cuts perfectly cylindrical tenons. My first set of mortises are 25mm diameter.

So I think the way to adapt your design is simply to drill the 25mm straight hole in the cutter block without reaming it to form a taper. However there will be a slight taper needed at the entry point to allow the over sized tenon to enter the cutter. I would chisel the tenon down to say 5mm of finished diameter so I am thinking that I should make a small entry taper say 20mm long with the entry being say 33mm diameter.

Would this work?

All the best


View mafe's profile


13872 posts in 4540 days

#8 posted 06-13-2015 08:52 PM

Not sure I really get what you mean…
This set is easy to make so don’t hesitate.
Ahhh do you mean to make a cutter for straight tenons, then I think your idea will work, you will have to round the iron also.
Let me know.
Best thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect.

View swans's profile


2 posts in 2530 days

#9 posted 06-20-2015 11:54 AM

Thanks Mads very much for responding. I’m very sorry for my delay in response. I’m looking forward to participating in this forum.

Yes I do mean a cutter for straight tenons. You have made a nice comparison to the pencil sharpener for the tapered cutter….the low clearance angle is important, the same as when offering a chisel to the work piece on a lathe….here the bevel rubs the work piece prior to cutting and as the handle is raised a similar low clearance angle is achieved. Bevel up on your cutter however allows for an increased included bevel angle of the blade if needed for more difficult woods.

I think that you have positioned the blade at the top of the hole just right as I think any position other than tangential to the hole would create a scraping action which is not what is wanted. Your diagram in part 2 of the project nicely showed that.

To make a cutter for straight tenons we also want the cutter to be placed tangentially which we can do. For a straight tenon the hole will also be straight and the diameter of the required tenon. The hole however needs to be widened at the mouth to allow the thicker rough tenon to enter. So here, because the wood is thicker the cutter now will not be cutting tangentially but with a slight scraping action. So,as you say, I think the best thing to do is to round the blade at the point where the tapered entry changes to the straight hole. This will mean some scraping at this point but unless the blade can exactly follow the rough tenon as it enters I think this is unavoidable?

I did intend to photo my progress but I have not got round to it yet, even though I want to join in the spirit of sharing so I will get round to it. I’ve made the reamer and the cutter body out of some holly which was nice and easy to work as it had not been seasoned but it has split a little, but as this is my first attempt it should be ok and I can cut out the splits as I proceed with the cutter body. I’m just about to drill the straight hole in the cutter body, then to think about the blade a bit more, but I think I’m just going to go for the straight blade rounded at the entry point.

All the best for now.


View mafe's profile


13872 posts in 4540 days

#10 posted 06-22-2015 11:50 AM

Hi Mark,
Yes do take a few Photos once you finish it.
Happy you can use the thoughts and ideas, look forward to see what you come up with.
Best thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect.

View D. B.'s profile

D. B.

35 posts in 3492 days

#11 posted 01-29-2022 12:49 PM

Great photos

View mafe's profile


13872 posts in 4540 days

#12 posted 01-30-2022 06:24 PM

Thank you D.B.
Best thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect.

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