Dust Pipe fittings #1: DIY Fittings

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Blog entry by jgt1942 posted 07-07-2020 04:19 PM 543 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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I recently received my new dust collector (Harvey Gyro G700) and was a bit anxious to get it going but a long way from determining where the final resting place would be in my shop. Thus I decided to use flex pipe (for now) and possibly move the unit as needed. As I suspected moving the G700 around in my shop was not a good option because it was a royal pain. My shop is about 16×55, thus I relocated the G700 about the middle of the 55’ run and use the flex pipe. I quickly realized that I did not have enough fittings to assemble the pipe and make some connections. Also the fittings on some of the tools were different sizes.

First I modified the DC on my bandsaw (see and was VERY pleased with the results. This was my first attempt to make my custom fittings.

At this time I still had not connected the G700 to anything so I enclosed my DW746 tablesaw and connected the G700 to it. Because the saw was now enclosed the dust collection was MUCH better but still needed more work.

After, I did quite a bit of work sealing the cabinet which cannot be seen in the following image.
I frequently use my Hammer A3-31 planner and it produces a LOT of shavings, thus it moved to the top of my list.

First I measured the diameter of the port. Drat!!! It is 4.7+”, this is a weird side. I guess it is a common size in Europe.

I’ll have to make a custom fitting. The first set was to plane a 2×6, cut four 8” sections, glue and clamp them together. Thank goodness I was not in a hurry (OK so I was). I was near the end of the day and letting the glue fully cure was a good reason to call it a day.

After the glue set, I inserted the blank in my lathe and turned the jig. The die of the jig on the right is 4.7+ inches. The jig on the left is the jig I made for the bandsaw.

I cut a 6” section from a 10’ piece of sewer pipe, rotating and heating the pipe until it was flexible. Then I pushed it onto the end of the jig. I used a heat gun set on high to heat the pipe. It is necessary to wear some leather gloves (the pipe does get hot). I quickly realized that it is best to secure the jig so I clamped it in my vice. I also discovered that it is best to leave the pipe on the jig until it cools, otherwise it will constrict to a smaller size. I don’t know if all PVC reacts this way, but be aware.

After it cooled it was time for a test fit, OH JOY it fit perfectly.

Back to the lathe to make a jig to reduce the size of the other end. This proved to be more difficult than making the end for the expansion. The inter/outer dia of the inside circle is determined by the inter/outer dia of the pipe being reduced and the thickness of the pipe wall. Initially, I used my regular parting tool, I discovered that it was too thick and this created two issues for me (1) the thickness of the circle was too thick (2) at some point the tool bounded and the jig went flying. I cut off about 1 1/2” and started over with my thin parting tool. This time I went VERY slow into the wood and stopped when I had reached a depth of 1 1/2”. NOTE if you are reducing PVC pipe you will have to create a different jig for each different pipe. For example, if you use the green 4” pipe it will be different than 4” white PVC pipe.

OK time to constantly rotate the pipe as you heat the pipe. When it becomes flexible, push it into the jig.

Leave it in the jig until it cools and then do a test fit.

I should have reduced the pipe a bit more and I may make another jig but the current fitting does work.
I discovered that I need a hose clamp on the larger end (I waiting on my order to arrive).

Because I have several different hose sizes for my various tools I will be making several more jigs as I move forward.
NOTE It will be necessary to “tune” your connections when you use different sizes of pipes connected to the main run otherwise you will find dust collecting in your hoses/pipes. One of the ways I will work around this is to install one line connected to a shopvac/home central vac or similar and the larger tools will be connected to my main DC.

I’ve also given thought to selling the G700 and just using multiple smaller DC units on the larger tools. This will take more thought before I go this route. Another consideration is the fact that I don’t have too many more summers to do woodworking.

-- JohnT

5 comments so far

View Redoak49's profile (online now)


4802 posts in 2794 days

#1 posted 07-09-2020 01:48 AM

Good ideas for making dust collection fitting which actually fit.

View jgt1942's profile


261 posts in 2693 days

#2 posted 07-09-2020 01:20 PM

For whatever reason(s), the side that slipped onto the A3-31 was a bit loose. I did not remeasure the dia of the jig, I just pulled it off, reheated it until it would easily flex (I could easily see the pipe was constricting), pushed it back on the A3-31 fitting and let it cool. Now I have a perfect fit.

It may be possible to avoid the wooden jig for expanding the pipe fitting (for some connections) and just use the fitting (in my case the A3-31 fitting) you are trying to fit. Initially, I tried that but was having a fitting issue. At this time I assume I did not get the pipe hot enough to properly flex and fit over the A3-31 fitting. As I move forward I will give it a try.

-- JohnT

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337 posts in 1336 days

#3 posted 07-10-2020 01:56 PM

Will you post a review on the G700 after you get a feel for it? Curious about that unit.

View jgt1942's profile


261 posts in 2693 days

#4 posted 07-11-2020 08:03 PM

Will you post a review on the G700 after you get a feel for it? Curious about that unit.

- RobHannon

It will be a few weeks before I can but I can post a few things as I move forward and I do have the initial setup. The unit actually arrived a day earlier than expected.

Unpacking is super easy, there are stiff cardboard “L” brackets to hold the box together.
I just noticed that some of the images are being rotated when I upload them

There are some goodies in the dust bin.

To open the dust bin just twist the two knobs about 1/2 turn toward the center

Here are the goodies that were in the dust bin

Inside the box that was in the dust bin

Remove the dust bin and then remove the four lag bolts that secure the G700 to the shipping pallet. In the following image, I’ve removed 2 and started the third.

Raise the two red feet. It is best to use an 18mm wrench, within a VERY short time I had a blister. I then switched to a wrench.

Using a short (about 3’) 2×4 I raised one corner and slid 6” long 4×4 under the corner. I repeated this for the other three corners.

On the bottom side of the shipping pallet, there is a block in the center area, I removed both using a prybar and hammer.

I then attempted to remove the blocks that the G700 had been secured to and realized I needed the G700 a bit higher. I repeated the lever-action
Note how the plywood used for the palet has flexed.

Now I could remove the big blocks

and inserted a 2×4 under each corner.

With the big blocks removed from both sides I started to lower the G700, first I removed the 2×4s.

I then raised one end of the pallet using the 3’ 2×4 as a lever and inserted two 6” 4×4 blocks setting on their ends. The image only shows one block.

I raised the 3” wide pallet runner strip with a 2×4. Using a wood chisel I easily cut through the 3” wide runner strip. Repeated the action on the other side.

View from the end

I then lowered the unit in stages, I was fearful that the G700 might be too much weight for me to handle

With the support stuff removed from the bottom end, the G700 easily flex the plywood and rested on the floor.

It was then easy to push the G700 off of the pallet. It did bind a bit at one point and there was a small drop as the wheels rolled off the plywood onto the floor.

-- JohnT

View jgt1942's profile


261 posts in 2693 days

#5 posted 07-11-2020 08:44 PM

First real usage. I’m getting ready to build two Maloof Inspired Rockers and this is my first build for them thus I decided to first make one using scrap 2×4s and hopefully make all of my mistakes on it. Currently, in my area, several houses are being constructed and the builder will give me scrap wood, most of which are 2×4s and most have LOTS of nails in them.
I selected 32, first I planned the large side on my Hammer A3-31 and then trimmed the small sides off on my DW746 tablesaw. All of this took me 3-4 hours. When I used the planner I connected the G700 directly to it via 20’ of flex-hose I purchased several years ago but had never used. This is NOT the best flex-hose because the inside is not smooth. I realize that I did not properly join one side and the boards may have a slight twist.

As I neared the end of preparing my wood I noticed that the pitch of the G700 had changed and sometimes the bin full light would flicker on.
Looking at the G700 intake port it was easy to see that it was almost 100% plugged.

Sometimes the planer would produce long ribbons of wood and sometimes when trimming off the smaller edge on the tabesaw a very thin strip resulted. Sometimes the strip would break and get sucked down by the G700.
The G700 has a protective grid that the bigger stuff gets caught on. It is possible to cut the metal grid out but at this time I don’t know if I will be keeping the G700.
Also, just a short distance behind the grid is the G700 impeller, you really don’t want to stick your fingers into the impeller. I have not tested this action but suspect I would not like the results.
I opened the dust bin, as you can see they are almost full. The large bin on the left should collect all of the large stuff and the bin on the right should collect the super small stuff.

I was surprised to see some large dust chips in the small bin, here are some close-ups.

Before connecting the DW746 TS to the G700 I had enclosed the cabinet taking care to seal it as much as possible. The following image shows the small amount of dust generated after a few hours of use where I cut the small sides of the 2×4s off and cut the 2×4s to the desired length for my project.

This is MUCH better and considerably less than I previously would have on the floor.

I plan to collect the dust from the TS at the blade on top of the table. This should greatly reduce the amount of dust on the floor.

In general, the G700 does a great job of collecting the dust. It will be several weeks before I can run the main duct for the shop and install drops for each machine.

I cannot find my notes regarding the noise level but at the high speed with my Android phone on the floor about 4’ away it measured 74db. At this level I still wear hearing protectors partly because the TS and the A3-31 will generate more noise. With only the G700 running the noise level at the high speed will get annoying, at least for me it did. But saying that my previous dust collector was louder! with highs near 100.

-- JohnT

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