Craftsman 113.27520 table saw - insert

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Blog entry by jamesfbeck posted 01-22-2012 09:24 PM 4184 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I’m looking to upgrade the insert in my Craftsman table saw, model 113.25720. I want to add a splitter (for safety) and change out the current insert for a zero clearance insert (ZCI). I bought a splitter from Micro Jig that will likely work fine. The problem now is finding a new insert. The one on the saw now is aluminum, around 1/8” thick (maybe less) – and now finding a replacement insert that will fit and with zero clearance AND that will take the Micro Jig splitter – well, these are my issues.

Can anyone help???

10 comments so far

View Sawdust2's profile


1466 posts in 4898 days

#1 posted 01-22-2012 09:38 PM

I’ve got a Micro Jig splitter.
On my saw I can use 1/2” plywood or plane down wood to the proper thickness.
Trace the supplied insert on the wood, cut it close to size, trim with a router to precise size.
If you need to adjust the insert to the table top drill holes when the tabs are and put set screws into the holes for final adjustment.
One the insert is prepared just follow the directions to install the splitter.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View Rev_John's profile


94 posts in 4699 days

#2 posted 01-22-2012 11:17 PM

Make one. You have the template right at your saw plate. Use built up hardboard, hardwood or even plywood.

-- John from Jackson, Michigan

View jamesfbeck's profile


5 posts in 3127 days

#3 posted 01-22-2012 11:18 PM

Thanks. So i’m guessing you feel a scrap of lumber will work as well or better than the after market blank inserts that are sold? my concern is getting down to the 1/8” thickness along the edges to keep it flush with table. i’ll try a piece of wood – see how it works. Thanks!

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 3298 days

#4 posted 01-22-2012 11:31 PM

1/8” isn’t all that thin and as weak as you think it is.
If you are in doubt, make the ZCI and coat it with a couple of layers of two part epoxy, let it soak in then sand it to fit.
For a couple of years I used my cheapo Ryobi BTS10 and made my own ZCI’s for it. They are not built for that by any stretch of the imagination.

Finally I decided to make it easier and used my Dremel tool and a bunch of files and sand paper to recut the opening. This worked great until the rear bearing on the saw went titsup and took out the armature.

Good luck to ya!


-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View jamesfbeck's profile


5 posts in 3127 days

#5 posted 01-23-2012 11:20 AM

All set – made the ZCI out of 1/2 ” MDF, routed edges down to 3/32” – perfect fit and plenty flat and strong.

Next question – the instructions for the Micro Jig combination splitter/kerf keeper are not too helpful. When to use a double splitter set-up vs a splitter/kerf combination? And which width of splitter to use? There are 3 different widths of the splitter provided in the kit I bought (for a STD 1/8” blade) – +, ++, and +++. Not sure when to use which one. Anyone have experience and some direction on these? They seem simple enough and provide the protection I’m after – but I need a little guidance to set it up right.

I’m new to this forum – these are probably pretty basic questions – thanks for the help!

View Viking's profile


882 posts in 4006 days

#6 posted 01-23-2012 12:25 PM

Splitter needs to match the width of your blade kerf.

-- Rick Gustafson - Lost Creek Ranch - Colorado County, Texas

View jamesfbeck's profile


5 posts in 3127 days

#7 posted 01-23-2012 06:54 PM

Appreciate your comment – my concern – the difference in width between the splitters is only 0.003” – i can’t measure my kerf that close!

also, do you know about setting up with 2 splitters vs. one splitter/kerf combination? i’m trying to determine which set-up to use.

View ptweedy's profile


75 posts in 4204 days

#8 posted 01-23-2012 08:03 PM

How many blades do you use? One. Cut kerf in piece of wood. Place splitter in kerf, It should be a little loose. mount it on a zci. You are finished. To make a zci the easy way is get a piece of masonite and cut out your zci shape. Make a ” L ” shaped block that hooks under the far end of the table top. glue or screw the block to the zci. I suggest screw it on to make it ajustable, for at least the first one you make. I have been doing it this way for 20 years and never had a problum. I generally make about 12 replacements at a time. I have dedicated thin kerf, ripping, stacked dado,and beveled cuts zci’s hence the 12 spares. I like masonite because it is available in 1/8 inch thickness that can then be laminated for use. It also takes wax nicely. 1/8 inch is available at home depot in 2’ x 2’ sheets which keeps the price down. The L block is vital because the blade wants to pick the fare end of zci up and throw it in your face. Make it a snug fit and cut a bunch at one time. I use masking tape to level the zci on every one because of the poor casting/machining on my saw… phil

View jamesfbeck's profile


5 posts in 3127 days

#9 posted 01-23-2012 09:19 PM

Thanks, tweedy. i actually use a few blades – so i was planning to make several ZCI’s as you suggest.

i could use a favor – could you send a photo of the “L block” thing? i’m having trouble picturing it – and i share your concern re: blade picking up the ZCI – mine is secured by only 2 screws – one at each end – i like the idea of securing it a bit better – but i can’t picture how the L block would fit underneath the table and around/between the mechanisms holding and powering the saw blade.

i was planning to go with the 1/8” masonite – but i measured the depth of opening for the ZCI – mine is 3/32” – so the 1/8” sticks up a bit – it was easier to route out a 1/2” piece of MDF – we’ll see how long it lasts.

appreciate your help – this is great forum!!

View Dror's profile


61 posts in 2229 days

#10 posted 10-03-2016 03:12 AM

If you still have the 113.27520 then please take a look at this riving knife mod

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