Tool gloat: UNISAW! #7: Rail and fence adjustment

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Blog entry by ic3ss posted 04-20-2011 02:43 AM 5542 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Mending fences Part 7 of Tool gloat: UNISAW! series Part 8: . . . and done! »

I decided the easiest way to get the space to accommodate the guide tube was to file down the locking cam. I found a pretty slick way to do this while ensuring that I don’t file any flat spots on the cam.

I stuck a small file down in between the cam and the locking shoe and used the shoe to press the file against the cam, and ran the locking handle up and down. I think I filed off about 0.10”, just enough to make the difference. Then I had to drill and tap holes to mount the guide tube to the front rail.

I had to make the holes bigger on the front rail but I didn’t want to take it off to do it on the drill press, so I used my great big DeWalt. This thing so powerful, it’s just a beast. The bit caught at the bottom of the hole and I twisted the hell out of my wrist. I love this thing for it’s power, but sometimes I forget that I have to put my whole body weight into using it every time. Ouch.

Then I found the front rail was too high to let the miter gauge pass over the guide tube, so I had to dismount it and drill the holes over sized so it will sit a little lower. With the guide tube on, I had to adjust both ends to be the same distance away from the table, making it pretty much square to the miter slots.

As I suspected, the set screws for fine adjustment were too long and kept hitting the rail mounting bolt heads. I took them out and ground the contact ends down.

There was no support for the end of the fence when I got it, so it just slid on the table. I don’t want that, so I’ll have to make a foot for it to ride on the back rail. Here you can see how big a foot I need.

With the end of the fence supported to the height to make it straight, I figured that I needed a 2” tall foot, then the glide pad to make it straight. Just so happens that the fence and guide tube are made out of the same box steel stock, which measures 2” thick. I had about 6” of overhang on the fence so I just cut off a couple of inches and drilled the holes for the glide pad, and two mounting bolts to fix it to the bottom of the fence. I did have to put a couple of washers between the fence and foot for a shim.

So I think the only thing left that I need for this saw is a sacrificial fence face. I think I’m going to use a sheet of UHMW from Woodcraft for a fence face. Other small items that I’ll get around to at some point are I have to get another electrical box and re-run the cables into and out of the switch. One cable comes out the back and has a sharp bend in it because it’s so close to the cabinet. The other cable comes out the side of the box and runs right into the elevation adjustment wheel. I’d also like to add a hanger for the miter gauge and another one for the fence on the side of the cabinet. And before I get busy using the saw, I need to get a fence rule fixed to the guide tube.

I have to work tomorrow, so I’ll get my fence faces before the weekend then mount them. Have a great day.

- Wayne

-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."

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