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Photos and info on 1/8th scale model 5130 #11: Booms, cylinders walkways and hand rails.

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Blog entry by hookfoot posted 12-11-2019 01:40 AM 952 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 10: Continuation of boom info. Part 11 of Photos and info on 1/8th scale model 5130 series Part 12: Shovel front boomsand cylinders etc. »

The pattern that is screwed in place is a guide for my router for stock removal(1/8th in). Once the outside run is made I change the face plate from the stock plate to the square one the was used before. Here am marking the length cut on the cylinder body. You need all of the travel you can get for everything to work the easiest. All my pivot points are 1/4 by 20 allthread and the holes are all 1/4in. No sloop. You can see the 1/8th lip on the edges of this boom. Love the detail. Everything is together with the hydraulic line on the cylinder and pin covers. The hydraulic lines shown are #4 solid copper and the mounting hardware is made of #8 solid copper that I swedged (Flattened) and formed, They are all alike but individually made. Then solder, clean, sand and clear coat prior to assembly. The screws in the headsof the cylinders are just for detail. On final assrmbly the heads are glued on. The rams have a collar on the end so they stay in the cylinder. Only need this collar on one set of cylinders. This is a glue up of a cylinder. I use a 3/4in cove bit to cut a groove in the pieces of stock. Once I am set up 3/8th projection of the bit and my fence is in place I run one layer of tape down both sides of the blanks. After I make the first pass on all the pieces I put a layer of tape on the face of the fence. These two uses of tape is for tolerances on the travel of the rams. Works pretty good. I am trying to remember all the steps. My problem is I do some of these steps and do not realize that I did them. Second nature.

Here you can see the spacers (last blog) that keep the lines from rubbing. That is all I have on the excavator booms and cylinders. This is the walkway on the side of the operators cab.

These are all the rails after they were clear coated. They are made from #8 solid cooper, formed by eye(90% of the time). The mounting holes are drilled just prior to assembly. There is 20 pieces of hand rail.Work on it a day or so then do something else for a couple of days then do some more. This is supposed to be fun.

This is the walkway from the back of the operators cab to the top of the engine compartment. I used the splines(shown) to strengthen the frame.

This is one of two mounting stairs for this machine. The newer stairs operate hydraulically. The machine will not start when the stairs are down.
That is it for this evening. Enjoy.



6 comments so far

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

4354 posts in 2595 days


#1 posted 12-11-2019 02:35 AM

I am constantly amazed at the amount of detail.

Great job taking pictures.

View sras's profile

sras

5289 posts in 3736 days


#2 posted 12-11-2019 03:13 AM

I enjoy all of your blog posts! I’m curious – how much paint did you use?

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View htl's profile

htl

4872 posts in 1766 days


#3 posted 12-11-2019 05:45 AM

Great work!!!
Would love to try making one of these big boys. LOL

-- An Index Of My Model making Blogs https://www.lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/130264

View hookfoot's profile

hookfoot

335 posts in 2556 days


#4 posted 12-11-2019 10:09 PM



I enjoy all of your blog posts! I m curious – how much paint did you use?

- sras


I do not keep track of the amount of paint. When I get the look I want I stop painting. The Cat yellow I by by the case(cheaper). I do not use a base or undercoat. I build my finish from bare wood. A little more paint but I get all kinds(good) of comments. At a show in Maryland one day a man(paint co. salesman) asked me how i did my finsh. I told him and before he left that day he told me to keep doing what I was doing because it was a great finish. I hate to finish but that said does not mean I can not do a good job. The first two coats are pretty much sanded away. Then I go to3M synthetic steel wool(red) between each coat. Some times 5 coats work. Some times 6 coats or more. The look is what I go for. Everyone says that my models look like they are metal, not wood. I dislike to sand and steel wool but that is what gives a good finish.

View crowie's profile

crowie

3372 posts in 2557 days


#5 posted 12-15-2019 09:03 AM

These work in progress photos and notes are absolutely amazing showing the magnificent detailing.

-- Lifes good, Enjoy each new day...... Cheers from "On Top DownUnder" Crowie

View stefang's profile

stefang

17039 posts in 3941 days


#6 posted 12-15-2019 12:41 PM

Crazy nice work.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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