Tote Repair, Fix The Crack #2: Glue up

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Blog entry by hhhopks posted 09-15-2012 08:35 PM 2155 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Tote Repair (Where's the repair?) Part 2 of Tote Repair, Fix The Crack series Part 3: Re-glue »

A dry run was performed first. Evidently, the original threaded rod that came with the plane is not very straight. The tote will rock back and forth as the threaded rod is being tightened. I can see how such rod can put a lot of stress on the tote and contribute to the breakage. The plane’s original rod will not do. Fortunately, I have another one on hand. Though it is not perfect either but the rocking motion was drastically reduced.

After the dry run I had to move my project to a better lit location. I had to study a bit to ensure the correct orientation of the wood chip. I decided to glue the wood chip first. A dap of glue was brushed on the top half of the tote where the chip location was at. I got the orientation correctly as far as inside and outside orientation. Because of the glue blocks my view, it was basically a trial and error fit. I did have to use the other half for trial fit. Excess glue was wiped off to check for proper fit. So it took a few minutes to get it where it needs to be.

I let the wood chip sit on for a few minutes before gluing the totes back together. This time I brush glue on to the break surface of both half. Both half of the tote was hand fitted together. I set the tote back on the plane at its’ proper position. With the nut in place on the threaded rod, I proceed to tightening the rod. I wasn’t happy, because the tote still rocks back and forth as the rod was being tightened. The crack point opened up. I gave up. I switch back to the rubber band method that I have used in the past. The picture shown should be self-explanatory. Now, there is nothing to do but to wait.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS

3 comments so far

View Deycart's profile


444 posts in 3066 days

#1 posted 09-15-2012 09:07 PM

Just to add a technique I use.. I like to drill little holes in the tote where the break occurred and use epoxy. The holes allow the epoxy more surface area to grip on. If I have one that is really bad and has repeatedly broken on me I will put a small dowel in the front part of the crack where there is a decent amount of space. It can be hard lining up the holes but I have never had one break again after I did that.

As for a holding technique I buy some long threaded rod and use two nuts and two washers as a clamp with a small wood spacers to take care of the angles. Its a pain to figure out but once you got it down you will wonder how you ever did it without one. I didn’t come up with this method, but I can’t remember where I saw it. Oh you might want to put something on the rod to keep the rod from being glued in to the wood! I usually just spray the rod with wd40 before assembly. Works most of the time.

View jcees's profile


1079 posts in 4607 days

#2 posted 09-16-2012 12:16 AM

You can straighten the rod by rolling it back and forth on a flat surface and tapping the high spot gently with a hammer till it goes away. I have an old chunk of inch thick steel that I use for such things. Also, I have to go with Deycart’s use of epoxy. Rosewood is inherently oily and normal wood glues will fail. I know because most of the repairs I’ve made were complicated by some other wood butcher doing a previously bad fix with Elmer’s or Titebond. Also, I resign myself to refinishing totes that are broken clean through. It’s the only way to diminish the evidence of repair. I recommend French polish for finish as it really makes the rosewood SING! But, in the interest of saving time and sweat, a dozen thin coats of lacquer with scuffing in between will do a good job too.


-- When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world. -- John Muir

View hhhopks's profile


659 posts in 3185 days

#3 posted 09-16-2012 12:43 AM

JC, thanks for the tip.
I think you are right. I do recall using epoxy before. I will hold better than Tite Bond. I’ll have to see how it goes. I may have to reglue. I do recall using Tite Bond before, but the break on the particular tote was higher up. This tote’s break is much lower and I believe it is in an area where there will be a lot of stress. I’ll have to test it out first before putting on the finish.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS

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