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Walnut kitchen countertop

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Blog series by harum updated 02-16-2014 04:55 PM 7 parts 18913 reads 4 comments total

Part 1: cutting and gluing

01-16-2014 08:14 PM by harum | 0 comments »

This countertop around oven range will be made of two separate pieces which connect through a “bridge” with one seam behind the range. The right part is about 13” x 24”, the left—37” x 24”. The bridge is of two parts, each is 40” x 3” and to be glued to either left or right side to allow one seam connection. Cut the 1-13/16” walnut boards into segments: The left side glue-up: Two boards of the right side glue-up: ...

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Part 2: Jointing

01-17-2014 05:11 AM by harum | 0 comments »

I selected TB III over TB II because TB III has longer open time, which I need for alignment of the longer boards. Besides, TB III is marginally stronger in less than perfect joints. Hope my joints won’t need that extra strength. Looks like, in general, visible glue lines in edge joining have to be avoided for reasons other than aesthetics. An exposed glue line in a gap between boards may swell and rise after contact with finish, or solvent, or moisture. From my (almost non-existen...

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Part 3: Glue-up almost finished

01-28-2014 02:47 PM by harum | 4 comments »

The two panels were glued board by board, which made alignment easier, especially for the 37” right side. The overall size is 80” x 27”. After the very last gluing today, I will trim the boards for them to fit the space around the oven range and start hand planing and sanding with an ROS. The glue lines are mostly flush, but not perfectly flush all the way along the length, so some flattening has to be done. The sanding-after-jointing idea kind of worked: if I w...

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Part 4: finishing options

01-29-2014 08:24 PM by harum | 0 comments »

I have sanded one of the halves of the top; the squeeze out cleans up very easily without softening or gumming up the sander. As far as finishing goes, I have been thinking about Watelox Original as suggested in numerous posts on walnut tops here on LJ. Mineral oil/beeswax mixture is not an option for sure. Waterlox is durable and forms moisture-, stain- and heat-resistant film; scratches can be repaired easily by applying locally a new layer of the finish. Walnut is an extremely porous...

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Part 5: glue-ups trimmed

02-05-2014 04:02 AM by harum | 0 comments »

The glue-ups were trimmed a bit to fit the space above the base cabinets. The walls around the cabs don’t meet at right angles though, so the right glue-up had to be cut accordingly. What is left before finishing is sanding with an ROS, grits 100 through 400. I also want to treat the edge with either a 1/8” round over, or a 1/8” bevel bits. Have to try on a scrap piece first to see which works better. Have yet to find one joint connector to bridge the left and r...

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Part 6: applying finish

02-14-2014 01:36 AM by harum | 0 comments »

Have tried two wood stains from Minwax on a scrap piece of walnut: “special walnut” and “golden oak”. I guess they may differ on other wood species or maybe they age differently, but right now look exactly the same after a week or so on walnut. After trying a few options for edges, I selected a simple 1/8” roundover. Anyway, I routed grooves for a miter bolt on both glue-ups, stained them and will apply Waterlox tomorrow. The stained ...

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Part 7: finishing

02-16-2014 04:55 PM by harum | 0 comments »

This is the countertop after application of two coats of Waterlox. The color looks good: dark enough and warm. Waterlox (Original) turned out to be very thin and runny, and after two coats the surface is still patchy and with what feels like a thin film. The pores are still showing. This may be good for penetration into wood and sealing it; will take though more than four coats I planned as a finish at the beginning. Have to wait over 24 hours between coats because of the tem...

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