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Kitchen Countertops in Sapele

9K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  JR45 
#1 ·
Board selection, alignment and glue up

My wife and I have been in the process of updating our new home for several months. We are trying to knock out all of the projects that would displace us before we move in. One of those projects was replacing the old royal blue corian countertops and sink. The only way were going to be able to accomplish this within our budget was for me to make them out of wood (which I do not mind!). Sapele seemed like an obvious choice due to its resistance to water, moderate price and beautiful grain and color.

I started this project like all projects by laying out the boards and choosing their orientation. I had just enough wide boards to "prioritize" the larger section of counters on the sink side of the room. The widest boards we had went over here, which were all quartersawn and displayed the ribbon figure Sapele is known for.

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I accounted for the sink cutout (open front, undermount style sink). Marked the boards accordingly and moved on to milling.

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After jointing one edge, and ripping to width (as wide as possible, cutting out any defects) I was able to glue up into three major sections. I glued the short side of the room in one large section, and two sections for either side of the sink. The sections to the left and right of the sink would later be joined to a continuous board the runs the full length, behind the sink. I held off on this glue up for ease of transportation. Domino's were used for alignment in these glue ups, which helped considering the length of the sections and the not perfect flatness of the boards.

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I also glued up the short sections (returns? the part at the bottom of the L shape). After all sections were glued up, and still in their over sized rough state, I dropped them off at a local counter shop to be run through the drum sander. This was the best $50 I have ever spent. They came back flat, smooth, and much more consistently sanded than i could have accomplished with my belt or RO sander.
 

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#2 ·
Breadboards, final assembly and fitting

After the glue dried and the major sections were sanded, I was able to lay them out on the base cabinets and start cutting them to fit against the crooked, curved walls.

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After scribing to the walls, I squared the ends and cut to width (including a 1.5" overhang) using a track saw. Part of the design of these countertops included using breadboards. One of the things that led to this decision was the lumber I was able to get was a little less thick than i wanted. My thinking was that using breadboards would make the counters look more like a table top than a traditional kitchen counter. I like the look, and think it just adds a unique feature that I have never seen before in a kitchen.

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After laying out the breadboards, I used 10Ă—50 dominos and glued them into the end-grain of the panels. Using a 3/8" forstner bit I drilled the holes for an oak dowel peg in the breadboards. I then installed the breadboards temporarily, and used the point of the bit to mark the Dominos. Using a router, straightedge, and 3/8" straight bit, I cut the holes into the domino's, elongating the holes of the exterior domino's.

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Now I was ready to install the breadboards. When gluing the dominos into the endgrain panels, I wiped the squeeze-out into the end grain to try and seal the grain. Any grain that did not recieve glue got a light coat of poly. When installing the breadboards, I glued the center domino and dowel, and just used a dowel in the 4 outer dominos. This was my first time using this method, and I have to say that the installation was easy, the fit is great and they feel extremely secure for the relatively small size of the tenons. The base cabinets will support the two larger breadboards. Thanks to the youtubers who have taught this method, and in particular Charles Neil for the use of the router to do the slots for the dowel. I would not have thought of that!

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Then came cutting the curve at one end of the counters. This needed to match the curved shelves underneath, and helped to open up the walkway into the den. This was a scary cut, but I was impressed what the cheap jigsaw and a minute or two sanding accomplished.

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Then it was time to make the cutout for the sink. This is something I had been avoiding for some time…
The sink we are using is porcelain and is not perfectly square, straight, or consistent side to side. I used a piece of 3/4" plywood as a template and traced the inside edge all the way around with a pencil pressed against the wall of the sink. Using a jigsaw and oscillating spindle sander, I cut and sanded back to my lines. I carefully placed this template under the counter tops and used a flush trim bit in the router to cut the counters. This cut left the counters the correct shape, but over hanging the sink. I wanted the edge of the counters to sit on top of the sink, revealing the top edge by ~1/4" or so. By using an rabbeting bit from Whiteside with many different sized bearings, i was able to slowly move my way back until the fit was just right. This process took awhile, as a made a rabbeting cut, then a flush trim cut, change the bearing and make another rabbeting cut, flush cut etc. The results were better than I expected.

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All that is left is a the edge profile, final sanding, and finish.
 

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#3 ·
Breadboards, final assembly and fitting

After the glue dried and the major sections were sanded, I was able to lay them out on the base cabinets and start cutting them to fit against the crooked, curved walls.

Cabinetry Wood Countertop Fixture Interior design


After scribing to the walls, I squared the ends and cut to width (including a 1.5" overhang) using a track saw. Part of the design of these countertops included using breadboards. One of the things that led to this decision was the lumber I was able to get was a little less thick than i wanted. My thinking was that using breadboards would make the counters look more like a table top than a traditional kitchen counter. I like the look, and think it just adds a unique feature that I have never seen before in a kitchen.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Beige Floor


Furniture Building Cabinetry Countertop Wood


Wood Rectangle Table Flooring Floor


Furniture Table Wood Flooring Wood stain


After laying out the breadboards, I used 10Ă—50 dominos and glued them into the end-grain of the panels. Using a 3/8" forstner bit I drilled the holes for an oak dowel peg in the breadboards. I then installed the breadboards temporarily, and used the point of the bit to mark the Dominos. Using a router, straightedge, and 3/8" straight bit, I cut the holes into the domino's, elongating the holes of the exterior domino's.

Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Table Flooring Floor Wood stain


Now I was ready to install the breadboards. When gluing the dominos into the endgrain panels, I wiped the squeeze-out into the end grain to try and seal the grain. Any grain that did not recieve glue got a light coat of poly. When installing the breadboards, I glued the center domino and dowel, and just used a dowel in the 4 outer dominos. This was my first time using this method, and I have to say that the installation was easy, the fit is great and they feel extremely secure for the relatively small size of the tenons. The base cabinets will support the two larger breadboards. Thanks to the youtubers who have taught this method, and in particular Charles Neil for the use of the router to do the slots for the dowel. I would not have thought of that!

Wood Flooring Wood stain Hardwood Tool


Then came cutting the curve at one end of the counters. This needed to match the curved shelves underneath, and helped to open up the walkway into the den. This was a scary cut, but I was impressed what the cheap jigsaw and a minute or two sanding accomplished.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Electrical wiring Varnish


Then it was time to make the cutout for the sink. This is something I had been avoiding for some time…
The sink we are using is porcelain and is not perfectly square, straight, or consistent side to side. I used a piece of 3/4" plywood as a template and traced the inside edge all the way around with a pencil pressed against the wall of the sink. Using a jigsaw and oscillating spindle sander, I cut and sanded back to my lines. I carefully placed this template under the counter tops and used a flush trim bit in the router to cut the counters. This cut left the counters the correct shape, but over hanging the sink. I wanted the edge of the counters to sit on top of the sink, revealing the top edge by ~1/4" or so. By using an rabbeting bit from Whiteside with many different sized bearings, i was able to slowly move my way back until the fit was just right. This process took awhile, as a made a rabbeting cut, then a flush trim cut, change the bearing and make another rabbeting cut, flush cut etc. The results were better than I expected.

Wood Rectangle Window Floor Flooring


All that is left is a the edge profile, final sanding, and finish.
Your countertop is looking terrific . . . but all that sawdust could really plug up your plumbing! :)

L/W
 

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#5 ·
Finshing process

After adding a very slight roundover to the top edges, easing the bottom edges by hand, and sanding to 220 grit with my orbital sander, I was ready to start the finishing process.

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After applying a coat of thinned polyurethane to the bottom (thinned for drying time), I poured on a coat of Watco Danish Oil in Dark Walnut. After testing different stains, I liked the tone the Dark Walnut color added. It deepened the dark part of the "ribbon" grain, adding contrast and a nice bronze color. After flooding the surface, I wiped off the excess a few minutes later.

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You can see the reds, browns, bronze colors. Walking around the room the colors in the grain change from each direction. The breadboards always provide a contrasting color due to the grain direction, which really makes them stand out.

I then laid out the faucet, trying to decide where to drill the holes for the each piece…

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After working up the courage I drilled the holes. This view is from the bottom.

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3 days later I lightly sanded with 400 grit paper, wiped the counters down and applied a coat of Shellac to provide a good seal coat over the danish oil. I thinned some zinzer "sanding sealer" 50% with denatured alcohol to make it easier to apply an even coat. I have had some very bad experiences with this stuff recently, and thinning it made things go much more smoothly. 30 minutes later a sanded again, and was ready for the first coat of Arm-R-Seal.

I applied I believe 6 coats of slightly thinned Arm-R-Seal gloss over the next 6 days. Sanding between coats. I applied minwax poly to the bottom before each session. As you know, it is hard to get this to really show up in a cell phone picture….but I am really happy with the look.

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The final coat will be Arm-R-Seal satin. I will be drilling for threaded inserts later in the week, and doing the final install.
 

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#6 ·
Finshing process

After adding a very slight roundover to the top edges, easing the bottom edges by hand, and sanding to 220 grit with my orbital sander, I was ready to start the finishing process.

Table Furniture Wood Rectangle Flooring


Property Furniture Wood Table Flooring


Window Cabinetry Kitchen sink Tap Countertop


After applying a coat of thinned polyurethane to the bottom (thinned for drying time), I poured on a coat of Watco Danish Oil in Dark Walnut. After testing different stains, I liked the tone the Dark Walnut color added. It deepened the dark part of the "ribbon" grain, adding contrast and a nice bronze color. After flooding the surface, I wiped off the excess a few minutes later.

Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain Flooring


Wood Textile Hardwood Wood stain Tints and shades


You can see the reds, browns, bronze colors. Walking around the room the colors in the grain change from each direction. The breadboards always provide a contrasting color due to the grain direction, which really makes them stand out.

I then laid out the faucet, trying to decide where to drill the holes for the each piece…

Wood Hand tool Yellow Wood stain Hardwood


After working up the courage I drilled the holes. This view is from the bottom.

Wood Table Floor Hardwood Flooring


3 days later I lightly sanded with 400 grit paper, wiped the counters down and applied a coat of Shellac to provide a good seal coat over the danish oil. I thinned some zinzer "sanding sealer" 50% with denatured alcohol to make it easier to apply an even coat. I have had some very bad experiences with this stuff recently, and thinning it made things go much more smoothly. 30 minutes later a sanded again, and was ready for the first coat of Arm-R-Seal.

I applied I believe 6 coats of slightly thinned Arm-R-Seal gloss over the next 6 days. Sanding between coats. I applied minwax poly to the bottom before each session. As you know, it is hard to get this to really show up in a cell phone picture….but I am really happy with the look.

Cabinetry Wood Countertop Interior design Flooring


Window Wood Rectangle Fixture Flooring


Rectangle Wood Flooring Interior design Floor


The final coat will be Arm-R-Seal satin. I will be drilling for threaded inserts later in the week, and doing the final install.
Wow, that is an incredible countertop! You should be very proud, that is an excellent statement piece!

Are there any lessons you'd pass on if you were to redo it?
 

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#10 ·
Nearly done

We have been living with the kitchen for a little over 60 days and I finally have the cabinet doors and drawers installed (no knobs or pulls yet…). There are still some alignment issues to address, and some doors need to be cut down just a hair. I decided to use the blum compact hinge which does not have quite the ease or range of adjustment that the full size hinges have. I think this was a good decision, despite the pain that it makes installing an aligning the doors. Cabinet doors I made with poplar and 1/4" birch panels, very simple square profile, panel grooves made on the table saw and assembled with domino tenons. Drawer fronts are the same profile, but with a 1/2" panel. I bought the festool domino with this kitchen project in mind, and as an excuse. It made tackling 33 doors/drawer fronts a three day weekend endeavor which I can say with certainty would not have happened (for me) with other joinery methods. Hard to argue against the efficiency of this machine.

There are no scratches, stains or other marks that I can find on the countertops. We have not been "careful" other than to avoid hot plates and pans which is pretty standard. Have let standing water dry on the counters probably most nights, and it wipes right off the next day. Very happy with the general finishes products (arm r seal) for this application. I have received may compliments by guests and a few "price is not a factor" commission requests that I can't believe I might consider. I really floundered through this countertop project, but doing it a second time should be much easier right?

Here are some pictures of the "nearly done" kitchen. It came a long way from the beige linoleum floor, navy blue corian countertops and sink, non-functional appliances and swelling mdf cabinet doors. Wish I had taken more "before" pictures!

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Cabinetry Property Wood Countertop Kitchen


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Brown Cabinetry Countertop Kitchen sink Property
 

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#11 ·
Nearly done

We have been living with the kitchen for a little over 60 days and I finally have the cabinet doors and drawers installed (no knobs or pulls yet…). There are still some alignment issues to address, and some doors need to be cut down just a hair. I decided to use the blum compact hinge which does not have quite the ease or range of adjustment that the full size hinges have. I think this was a good decision, despite the pain that it makes installing an aligning the doors. Cabinet doors I made with poplar and 1/4" birch panels, very simple square profile, panel grooves made on the table saw and assembled with domino tenons. Drawer fronts are the same profile, but with a 1/2" panel. I bought the festool domino with this kitchen project in mind, and as an excuse. It made tackling 33 doors/drawer fronts a three day weekend endeavor which I can say with certainty would not have happened (for me) with other joinery methods. Hard to argue against the efficiency of this machine.

There are no scratches, stains or other marks that I can find on the countertops. We have not been "careful" other than to avoid hot plates and pans which is pretty standard. Have let standing water dry on the counters probably most nights, and it wipes right off the next day. Very happy with the general finishes products (arm r seal) for this application. I have received may compliments by guests and a few "price is not a factor" commission requests that I can't believe I might consider. I really floundered through this countertop project, but doing it a second time should be much easier right?

Here are some pictures of the "nearly done" kitchen. It came a long way from the beige linoleum floor, navy blue corian countertops and sink, non-functional appliances and swelling mdf cabinet doors. Wish I had taken more "before" pictures!

Cabinetry Countertop Property Kitchen appliance Kitchen


Cabinetry Property Wood Countertop Kitchen


Cabinetry Kitchen sink Countertop Sink Tap


Brown Cabinetry Countertop Kitchen sink Property
This looks very impressive and must be a great improvement on what you had before. Well done!
Jim
 

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