End Grain Cutting Board LJ Class 006 #4: Lesson #1

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Blog entry by degoose posted 05-19-2011 10:10 PM 8918 reads 23 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Excuses, excuses... Part 4 of End Grain Cutting Board LJ Class 006 series Part 5: Finally.... »

I know that this has been long awaited.. and I hope that the delay has not caused some to drop out of the class… NO.. I am sure that is not the case… one things that woodworkers have…is patience…

Miss Debbie wrote in the latest copy of Lumberjocks e-Mag…

“Patience is a virtue” they say, and a woodworker often has to use patience while working on a project. I’m picturing the time spent sanding an item, taking the sandpaper to finer and finer grits, waiting for that perfect smoothness. And in the end, the patience and the work all pay off and those admiring the project appreciate the efforts.

Well I thank you for your patience.. the wait if nearly over. First off we need to select the timber for use in the project.. As stated in the original post, there will be a beginner and an intermediate board.. They will be similar in the use of timber and for these I have selected 3 woods,

One black, one white one and one with a little… oops wrong song..

One light one dark and one kinda in the middle… I suggest for you that the timbers be tight grained hardwood.. Of course timber selection will differ amongst the various countries that this class is reaching…for some this process will be quite straight forward… for example in the US…Cherry, Walnut, Maple..seem to be the staple although I have heard that some will be using Jotoba, Bubinga and PurpleHeart…This is purely personal preference and also about availability.. If you do not have access to these timbers use what is handy…

With regard to over all size I will be going for around 405 mm by 325 mm and 35 mm thick [for our American cousins roughly 16 X 13 X 1 1/2 inches]

To understand the next process we need to understand just what a End Grain Board is and how It is made…

We take strips of timber and glued them together [laminating] and then cross cut the wide glue up into strips, rotate them 90 degrees and glue up again…that is it in a nutshell..

To work out the length of stock required we look at the thickness of the stock.. in this case 45 mm dressed [1 3/4 inches] and if we crosscut 9 strips after lamination we get 405 mm [just over the 16 inch mark] We will in fact cut 12 strips just in case there is a defect inside the timber we can’t see…and we will need a little extra length for safety… to be able to keep our hands and fingers clear of the very sharp spinning thing in the table saw…

Then to work out the actual length you multiply the number of pieces by the depth of the finished board..[not forgetting the Kerf … the thickness of the cut .. usually about 3 mm [1/8”].. Lets call it 40 mm [1 5/8”] therefor the timber needs to be at least 480 mm .. call it 500 [20”] and a little extra for safety… say 550 mm [22”]

If your timber is not that thick the same rules apply :

For example… only 25 mm [1”] then you would cut 16 pieces with 4 or so extra if needed…so to end up with 400 mm [16”] you would be looking at 800 mm plus… say 900 mm [or nearly 3 feet…] This will give a much tighter pattern than using 50 mm or 8/4 stock..

This is where your personal choice comes in.. you can follow exactly or you can choose to use a different thickness to either of the two mentioned so far… up to you…

Next is the width part… we have decided on 325 mm [13”] again up to you.. wider or narrower..personal choice… I just like even numbers.

As popular as the chess board style is, I personally like the “bricks” to overlap on each course… just like laying bricks… the one above holds the edges of the two below..

For this board [beginners] we will be using straight rip cuts…There will be 5 boards..the outer boards will be dark [or light if you choose] one will be 75 mm [3”] wide and the other will be 50 mm [2”] .. next in from the edge will be 2 boards [opposite colour to the edge board… if the edge boards are dark use light coloured timber… and vice versa.. yes I know this is not supposed to be a latin lesson] each 75 mm [3”] wide

The middle one will be in between in colour… and will be 75 mm [3”] wide. Again you can change these dimensions.. just as long as the “bricks” overlap!

So to recap … you will need

1. Dark timber..1×75 mm x 50 mm x 550 mm long…[3×2x22”]...1 x 50 mm x 50 mm x 550 mm [2×2x22”]

2. Light timber..2×75 mm x 50 mm x 550 mm long…[3×2x22”]

3. Inbetween timber..1×75 mm x 50 mm x 550 mm long…[3×2x22”]

For the slightly more difficult ’’intermediate’’ level board please note the stock has to be 25 mm [1”] WIDER on the outside pieces and 35 mm [1 1/2”] wider for the inner pieces…

We will be bevel ripping these… more info in the next post..

I appreciate that this is rather long winded and a lot to read but the next lesson will include a video and some pics.. and less words…

-- Be safe.

16 comments so far

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10963 posts in 5336 days

#1 posted 05-19-2011 10:19 PM

Looks GOOD…

I may be a little slow on this… but, I will try to get it done… Maybe scaled down a tad…

Thank you.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: ... My Small Gallery:

View lanwater's profile


3113 posts in 4218 days

#2 posted 05-19-2011 11:04 PM

Are we doing both boards at the same time or the beginner board first and then the intermediate?

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View Pdub's profile


926 posts in 4464 days

#3 posted 05-19-2011 11:08 PM

Lookin forward to lesson #2 Larry. Don’t know when I will get a chance to make one, but when I do it will be saved in my favorites ready to print and take to my shop.

-- Paul, North Dakota, USAF Ret.

View fernandoindia's profile


1081 posts in 4227 days

#4 posted 05-20-2011 12:47 AM

Hi Larry, better late than never, :-)

We understand, the most difficult part here is the translation among millimeters and inches.

Good job for me. Already got the timber !!

-- Back home. Fernando

View Maddhatter's profile


127 posts in 4861 days

#5 posted 05-20-2011 01:40 AM

Larry great job. Love the posts.

-- Norm (AKA - The Maddhatter), Middletown DE

View BigTiny's profile


1721 posts in 4172 days

#6 posted 05-20-2011 01:51 AM

We’re at the post…


-- The nicer the nice, the higher the price!

View Beginningwoodworker's profile


13345 posts in 4957 days

#7 posted 05-20-2011 03:47 AM

Looks good, Larry.

View HawkDriver's profile


447 posts in 3917 days

#8 posted 05-20-2011 04:47 AM

Looking good larry, keep it comin’

-- Patrick, Helicopters don't fly. They beat the air into submission.

View Chelios's profile


568 posts in 4350 days

#9 posted 05-20-2011 05:25 AM

Still here

View Woodwrecker's profile


4240 posts in 4859 days

#10 posted 05-20-2011 05:29 AM

Thanks Larry.
I will never, ever turn down a lesson from a Master!

View Dusty56's profile


11866 posts in 4972 days

#11 posted 05-20-2011 11:40 PM

Looking forward to the next installment , Larry : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View Grumpy's profile


26812 posts in 5135 days

#12 posted 05-21-2011 12:57 AM

On ya Larry.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View WoodArtbyJR's profile


428 posts in 4249 days

#13 posted 05-21-2011 03:03 PM

Thanks for dummying down the measurements for your american cousins (some of us REALLY do appreciate it, my brain get tired doing the calculator thing)

-- Jim Roberts, Port Orchard Washington

View wrm62's profile


3 posts in 4339 days

#14 posted 05-21-2011 03:36 PM

Sounds great, like Pdub, I’ll be saving it for later, but for now I’m gona use Sketchup to follow along.

-- That which has been made can never be unmade.

View EvilNuff's profile


60 posts in 3911 days

#15 posted 06-03-2011 06:25 PM

I’m as interested as the next guy in this series but its been 50 days and we the readers still don’t have a single step we can take. We cannot even buy the wood yet…

showing 1 through 15 of 16 comments

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