Workshop Development #88: Quick and dirty 20 minutes in the shop. More drywall up!

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Blog entry by dbhost posted 02-12-2014 03:10 PM 1150 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 87: Making more progress on the shop. Made it a mess again... Part 88 of Workshop Development series Part 89: Narrow wall drywall patching, and dust collection update... »

I know it isn’t much, but I have some more of the drywall up, the big part from the halfway point to the door brackets. It allowed me to close up the gap allowing cold air to blow in around the studs. I caulked that up, installed the drywall and patched a mistake. I have a couple areas to clean up / install maybe tonight and I am good to go!

The tough part is going to be the bottom around the AC ducts. I can get it done, but it will take some creativity.

This weekend most likely, I will be starting on the miter saw dust hood, so I have lots on my plate right now. The good thing is I am clearing a lot of it out too!

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3 comments so far

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Jim Bertelson

4267 posts in 3582 days

#1 posted 02-12-2014 04:25 PM

The miter saw hood ought to be interesting. That is something I never had to consider before, but I will have to do something in La Conner…..........

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

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5772 posts in 3650 days

#2 posted 02-12-2014 05:05 PM

It is going to be pretty simple. Open plywood frame on back, and sides, bottom will be the bench top, and top is just a piece of 1/2” ply. I will be attaching a piece of 1/8” acrylic that will be used to make the curved back piece, attached to a center upright in the back and the front uprights on the sides…

The OE port from the saw will be plumbed with regular 1.25” shop vac hose that will just be dropped down the 4” port. I am thinking the Ridgid hose from Home Depot is plenty flexible and won’t resist the travel of the saw too badly. Probably get something like that, or similar..

The acrylic will be sealed top and bottom to the plywood using clear silicone caulk

The frame is going to be assembled using pocket screws. Although I had considered a mortise and tenon, I figure why bother with plywood?

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Jim Bertelson

4267 posts in 3582 days

#3 posted 02-13-2014 12:09 AM

I will definitely like to see how that works. My experience with the miter saw in La Conner is that it throws a bunch of sawdust out the back in spite of the direct connection. My thought, since you have a more robust DC than I do in La Conner, Is that you might split the connection with part of it going to the saw directly, and some to the back of the hood, where ever the sawdust seems to go. I use a splitter for my drill press here so that it sucks from under and on top as well. I used a small ply wood box to do all the connections.

Here is an interesting test….....take off the DC from the OE port and see where the sawdust is exiting. I found out from a post on LJ’s that the port on the RAS essentially had no sawdust coming through it! I tested it…...sure enough. So I blocked that hole and pull all the sawdust from the RAS table level right around the blade, with a shroud that comes right out to the fence. That did it.

So if you haven’t tested your saw, test before you build…............

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

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