Ancient Bucket Master Class with Stefang #2: Plane body glue up

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Blog entry by daltxguy posted 02-12-2011 09:44 PM 3508 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: DIY convex plane - so far Part 2 of Ancient Bucket Master Class with Stefang series Part 3: I got sole »

Some more progress on my plane, which will be used to curve the inside of the staves to form a bucket.

I am following stefang's master class on making a bucket using traditional methods

I left off here last time

Next to make was the crosspin. I chose to make a wooden pin. I don’t have any plug cutters so I did this on my
rusty lathe ( forced to sit outside but under cover for space reasons). I sized the middle part to fit inside the plane less 1/16” so it wouldn’t bind when the sides were glued up), then marked centers on the ends, punched the center to ensure good seating on the lathe centers and then turned two pegs on the ends to 10mm to fit my drill bit.

Here’s the crosspin having come off of the lathe and being checked for size – seems ok

and a bit of clean up, rounding the 2 edges of the crosspin which go towards the throat of the plane to ensure that shavings don’t get caught up in there and a bit of linseed oil to finish before gluing up the sides.

Then carefully marking out the position of the pin, drilling the holes ( first one side, then using the hole as a guide to drill out the other side which I didn’t show here)

Lined up against my measurements. Flat side towards plane, spaced 3/16” away from the where the blade will be.

And now finally ready for gluing the other half with the obligatory subliminal messages now customary to this master class

and the glue up – go drink a tea…and start thinking about a wedge

I found this piece of wood which looks unlikely to be anything but it is a piece of NZ red beech which is extremely weather resistant, hard and close grained. It’s been weathering outside for several years but will clean up very nicely.

I didn’t take any pictures of the planing and forming of the wedge ( and I might still make another one later). I just formed a simple flat wedge about 5” long and slightly less than 2” wide. I might go back and cut a curved top wedge later. I can see the obvious advantages of the top of the wedge being slightly away from the blade when it comes to removing or tightening the wedge now that I’ve had a go with this one.

While it still does not have a base and the wedge needs some fine tuning to sit completely flat against the blade when wedged, I couldn’t resist a few test strokes. So it works like a scrub plane right now and sure enough it made some shavings!

-- If you can't joint it, bead it!

10 comments so far

View moshel's profile


865 posts in 4420 days

#1 posted 02-12-2011 10:24 PM

cool plane! actually a scrub plane is not a bad idea as well….
wouldn’t drilling the holes on the original blank be easier? i am not following the class so it might have been answered there.

-- The woods are lovely, dark and deep, but I have promises to keep...

View mafe's profile


12591 posts in 3826 days

#2 posted 02-12-2011 11:46 PM

Looking really nice.
And more serious of size than my little one.
Look forward to follow.
Best thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View Dennisgrosen's profile


10880 posts in 3852 days

#3 posted 02-13-2011 03:14 AM

its looking god sofare one thing is for sure if the first shot on a plane can make shavings
then you on the right track …lol

take care

View daltxguy's profile


1373 posts in 4651 days

#4 posted 02-13-2011 03:33 AM

Hi Moshe – if you mean the holes for the registering dowels front and back, well the back can be done that way but in the case of the front once the throat is opened up, it must be adjusted forwards to fit the blade, so it cannot be predrilled. I suppose you could predrill and then adjust the opening of the front but it would be harder to sneak up to the right opening size. The opening on mine is curved to make room for shavings. If it was flat, I guess you could keep planing until it was right. I’m sure it would work either way. What do I know, it’s my first plane?

As for the crosspin, the position of this is not known until the throat is cut and it can be sized to the blade. The layout is made on the inside relative to the position of the blade, so it must be drilled from inside out on the one side and then through the same hole in the other direction to get the other cheek once the cheek is in its final position.

Thanks Mads and Dennis. I’m quite happy that it even looks like a plane. It is promising. Some fine tuning and it should be behaving quite well or else I will know immediately what I should have done differently. I am already thinking that it feels a little too light.

-- If you can't joint it, bead it!

View Dennisgrosen's profile


10880 posts in 3852 days

#5 posted 02-13-2011 03:40 AM

donĀ“t be surprized by that so is it with wooden planes if you compare them with
iron plane s in the same size but if you want to add mass then you cuold drill some
holes infront and back of the iron and fill them with some irondovels :-)


View BigTiny's profile


1676 posts in 3625 days

#6 posted 02-13-2011 12:11 PM

If you want more weight, drill some large holes in the bottom of the body and fill with lead before gluing the sole on.

-- The nicer the nice, the higher the price!

View daltxguy's profile


1373 posts in 4651 days

#7 posted 02-13-2011 12:33 PM

I think it might be alright the way it is in terms of weight – just takes some getting used to. Adding the sole will also add some more weight to it but then shaping it will remove some.

Adding lead would add the weight but then would make it toxic waste when it’s life is over so not something I would be likely to do. If it really is too light, then I will consider using a heavier wood next time, but I’ll see after I get a chance to use it.

-- If you can't joint it, bead it!

View moshel's profile


865 posts in 4420 days

#8 posted 02-13-2011 12:48 PM

i have some balau. you can have a piece for the sole if you wish. heavy stuff…

-- The woods are lovely, dark and deep, but I have promises to keep...

View stefang's profile


17039 posts in 4071 days

#9 posted 02-13-2011 01:39 PM

Good going Steve. I found that if you angle the top of the wedge so it’s parallel with the plane body, it will give you more surface to bang on and maybe a better angle too.I have done that with mine. Not a big deal if you have a small enough hammer. I’m waiting for Mads to show us how to make a nice little brass hammer to adjust our planes with,lol.

I have made two round bottom planes. The first one was smaller using a block plane blade as Mads did, but the plane was sized between his and ours. I just never got to the bucket making part so that I could actually use it. Both times it was a real thrill to find how well they worked. I think you will experience this feeling too and you probably already have to some extent, even before making the sole!

Thanks for posting your progress. It’s always more interesting to see others work than our own, at least for me.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View bigike's profile


4057 posts in 4025 days

#10 posted 02-18-2011 11:22 PM

nice, I was wondering what to do with my extra plane blades.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://[email protected]

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