Make your own - shop aids, tools, jigs #2: Drill press table for Wen 4210

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Blog entry by curliejones posted 07-26-2017 11:48 PM 1478 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Cake squares - not cookies Part 2 of Make your own - shop aids, tools, jigs series Part 3: Pipe clamps, aluminum pipe? »

I bought small bench top drill press a couple months ago to dedicate to “wood only” drilling and with hopes that I could affix a drill press table with fence. I was pleasantly surprised when I unpacked the drill press since there was virtually no measureable runout at the 1/2” bit just outside the chuck, the laser was spot on, and it ran very smoothly and quietly. I had a drill press table that I had recently built but found that I was having to remove and replace it frequently on my floor model drill press to drill metal projects, avoiding the metal shavings and oil.

I used some hanger bolts and knobs to fix this wood d.p. table to the metal one, an improvement over the awkward clamps when I used it on the floor model. It did not take long to discover a shortcoming; the table elevation crank could not clear the underside of the wooden table so that table would have to be removed to make more than minor changes to the table height.

In looking for solutions, I considered adding a coupling and a 6” extension to the handle shaft until I measured carefully to find the handle shaft was 0.55” instead of a standard 1/2”. I decided to build a wooden push-on knob since the new table with wooden table is not very heavy and the rack and pinion action is fairly smooth.

To start, I cut out two pieces from some scrap oak 3/4”plywood that measure 2-1/8” in diameter. One I drilled through the center with a 1/2” Forstner bit and enlarged it with a round rasp until it fit tightly on the 0.55” handle shaft of the drill press. The next piece added was a slice from a 1/2” dowel to provide a flat area to match the flat area on the handle shaft. I glued that in place inside the plywood round and pushed it on to the handle shaft to provide “clamping pressure” while the glue set. I carefully wiggled it from the shaft and glued the other plywood round to it.

For finishing touches I sanded six lobes into the circumference and softened the edges of the knob. I inserted a thin metal shim on the flat spot when I pushed it onto the shaft and gave it a couple taps with a rubber hammer to seat it.

The 1-1/2” thick knob is easy to grip. It works well though not as fast as an offset handle that you crank. Shop-made solutions are always fun and no out-of-pocket cost is lagniappe (a little something extra).

-- Like Guy Clark sez - "Sometimes I use my head, Sometimes I get a bigger hammer"

1 comment so far

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1 post in 2042 days

#1 posted 02-01-2018 02:07 PM

I had the same problem with a relatively inexpensive bench-top d.p. After fashioning an extension from iron water pipe, pipe hardware, cotter keys and a very small bolt and nut I decided that was a bad idea and removed it all. In the process I discovered that the d.p. table was light enough that it was very easy to move up and down thel shaft by hand, minus the rack-and-pinion assembly. I keep it lubed real good with dry-lube (paste wax, petroleum jelly, machine grease or oil attract too much dust and metal cuttings) and have had NO problems with it thus far.
I really like your simple table design!!

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