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Saw Till #3: Finished the carcass

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Blog entry by controlfreak posted 05-18-2021 01:26 PM 401 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Sides, bottom and drawer box done. Part 3 of Saw Till series Part 4: Rebate for plywood back »

I must say that I am enjoying doing my dovetails “pins first” now. They look a little dirty with the pencil lead but that will clean up with a smoother. The lead used to mark the tail lines is also on the sides off the pins. On a test fit the pencil marks leave smudges where they are too tight and make it easy to trim to fit.

I used dovetails on the top and bottom and through tenons for the middle shelf , top of drawer box, just to play around with things. Main reason for the drawer is I have never made one and a good excuse for trying half blind dove tails. Wondering how to make the drawer not fall out if someone pulls it to far.

I hand drew a curving line down the side and cut it out on the bandsaw. Still needs to be sanded but gives it a little flow. Struggling on what to use for the saws to rest on. The two options are a oak dowel or an accent wood that would get the top rounded over. Also need to lay it out for optimal location.


Because it is not glued up yet I can cut the shelf so that it will make room for a plywood back. I wanted to use my rabbit plane or Stanley 45 but unless I am missing something I will have a nasty exposed edge if I did that. So I am thinking of using a rabbiting router bit and squaring up the corners with a chisel. Thank for looking and feel free to add any tips and tricks that can get me over the hump.



5 comments so far

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

17908 posts in 2256 days


#1 posted 05-18-2021 04:04 PM

You could just rabbet the vertical members and leave the horzontal ones alone. Then you wouldn’t have the rabbet visible anywhere. But, in general, it takes some advance planning if you need stopped rabbets and want to cut them with hand tools. Personally, I just use the router too :-)

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

View sansoo22's profile

sansoo22

1673 posts in 772 days


#2 posted 05-18-2021 04:39 PM

I think I spy a router plane in that till of yours. They make stopped rabbets quite nicely. Use a chisel to mark the end of the rabbet and give the plane iron a nice “break point”. Then spend the next couple hours of your life cut, lift, twist…repeat.

View Andre's profile (online now)

Andre

4574 posts in 2924 days


#3 posted 05-18-2021 05:24 PM

Wondering how to make the drawer not fall out if someone pulls it to far

I used the Krenov method, make the back panel slightly larger than the front, sort of like a small taper effect.
With stable humidity and a lot of fine shavings you can adjust the amount of force required to fully pull the drawer out. Think he called it “Let go” ? LOL! had some more tuning to do on my till, the drawers wouldn’t come out all winter as the casing shrunk, got them planed down and a little wax so all good know:)

PS.
Just checked , took me 3 years too finally make the drawers for mine:) still no finish on it.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

2234 posts in 719 days


#4 posted 05-18-2021 08:47 PM


Wondering how to make the drawer not fall out if someone pulls it to far

I used the Krenov method, make the back panel slightly larger than the front, sort of like a small taper effect.
With stable humidity and a lot of fine shavings you can adjust the amount of force required to fully pull the drawer out. Think he called it “Let go” ? LOL! had some more tuning to do on my till, the drawers wouldn t come out all winter as the casing shrunk, got them planed down and a little wax so all good know:)

PS.
Just checked , took me 3 years too finally make the drawers for mine:) still no finish on it.

- Andre


In thinking about this I have heard that if the drawer is made to fit fairly tight vertically you can open it almost all the way and still have support. I could place a narrow strip of wood near the top center and if placed optimally I should be able to tilt the drawer up to release it from the box. I must admit this may be a pain to line up. With this being a fairly shallow drawer I can see where it could be pulled out if I don’t do something. I just didn’t feel like using slides or other modern hardware.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

17908 posts in 2256 days


#5 posted 05-18-2021 08:53 PM

If it’s not too late, you can put a groove in the bottom horizontal member then drill a hole in the bottom of the drawer box and stick a dowel in it that rides in the groove. Just stop the groove before the front and the dowel will catch to prevent it from coming out. Leave the dowel long enough that you can grab it and pull it out in case you need to remove the drawer.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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