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How to use a Kerfmaker (trying to help out!) Blog.

120K views 45 replies 25 participants last post by  mafe 
#1 ·
How to use a Kerfmaker (trying to help out!) Blog.

How to use a Kerfmaker
Ok, many asked me this question, and I have seen it again and again on LJ.

If you need to find out how to make one, you can see my Kerfmaker 'Brass'n wood'.

Another fun gadget is the tenonmarker:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/39236

I'll try to explain, as well as I can, feel free to ask questions if I do not make myself clear (I'm only human):


Collect what is needed, in this case a base stock and two thinner side stocks, and of course a Kerfmaker.
(The pipe and matches are optional, and I must warn against smoking…).


Measure out where you want your kerfs to start, and mark it carefully with a little arrow showing what direction to cut.


Her you see the setup.


Now put the stock you want to cut out into the gab of the Kerfmaker, and tighten it up.
Now you have the only measure you need set up.


And here you can see the Kerfmaker's 'mouth' with the correct size set.


Now you need to figure out how deep you want to cut, I'll make a flush cut straight with the surface, you can simply measure, or you can use a Height-, length gauge .


Set the thickness of the stock on the gauge, and lock it.


Now you set the height on your table saw after the gauge (it's really easy).
Remember to roll the blade, so you end on a tooth top.


Now bring your Kerfmaker to the table saw, and loosen the finger screw in the back.


Hold the back of the kerfmaker against the blade, and adjust the thumb screw until it has same thickness as the saw blade.
Now you are ready to use the Kerfmaker.


Now set the cut up, and lie the Kerfmaker behind the stock, and use the shortest part (see photo), then lock your fence stop. And you are ready to make your first cut.


Now rise the Kerfmaker so it's full length, and move the stock up to the Kerfmakers front.
Make your next cut.


Here you see both cuts made.


Now clean up the cut, either with repetitive cuts on the table saw as I do here, or simply with a chisel.


And here we are, a perfect fitted kerf.
If it's not perfect, you simply need to adjust the back screw a little for adjusting the size.


Here both.


And here you see a perfect fit, I can hold it up, with no glue used.

I hope this could solve the magic of the Kerfmaker, an inspire to make or buy one,

Best thoughts,

Mafe
 
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#3 ·
Excellent how-to Mads! I've been wondering about these kerfmakers and this comes at exactly the right time. I was just about to research the operation of this amazing little tool. Now you saved me the trouble, thanks brother!

You know, I have been cutting so many dadoes in the measure and miss way, I just HAVE to build this little gizmo REAL soon. Thanks again.

NICE PIPE! Guess what, I have a matchbox just like yours :^)
 
#6 ·
great toturial as usual from you Mads
if I can understand this everyone can , believe me I realy had my thoughts about
these sawkerfs-dingy-tings and cuoldn´t figur them out until now.
maybee its becourse I havn´t a Ts

thank´s for taking some stress away from me ….lol

by the way your kerfmarker looks great

take care
Dennis
 
#10 ·
Oh my!
That was quick response!
Swirt, yes that was a cool video they have made, and I must say the KerfMarker are quite sexy! Most of all I was happy to see the easy callibration method (wood cuts), this I have never seen, perhaps I'll ad it to the blog. Thank you.
Dennis, yes I understand, but you can acually use it with a handsaw to set the cuts also! (then it might be a good idea to use brass like me). By the way I was at the post office today, so your pack are on the way now.
Fernandoindia, I guess you must now! Laugh.
Div, funny you have a matchbox like mine… I have to send you some of my favorite tobacco one day, if I will not be arrested for smuggeling! Yes you have to make one, if you don't have time, I'll make one and send you - thats a offer my brother. I bought the little pibe in Pragh some years ago when I was teaching drawing and aquarelle (watercolor) there.
Thank you to all for the feedback, it makes it worth doing this for you all,
best of thoughts,
a happy smile,
and lots of love,
Mads
 
#11 ·
Very cool and useful , Mads. I'm going to make one,too. I was wondering why the MK-1 in the video had two sliding pieces to it instead of just the one you have the defines both side of the kerf?
 
#12 ·
Hi Jim,
On my version, the top adjuster, has been moved down to the the bottom, and been replaced with the little adjustable brass finger screw (this adjust the compensation for the saw blade thickness).
So on mine, it will be the brass finger screw in the back you set to touch the second piece of wood after the cut (video).
So it's just different approches to solve the same problem, other LJ's solved this simply by a little normal fixed screw.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#15 ·
Mads, I feel humbled and don't know how to respond to your offer. You are too kind and I am already in your debt. I wish I was a rich man so I can send you a big box full of wood! Maybe we can swop something?
 
#16 ·
No way, you stay away from my Caroline! Even you do have a sweet wife!
LOL
No I need no return, life is not to measure, you give me soo much (so promise me there are no debt between us).
Once I was rich on gold, then I lost it all - my house, my job, my health - now I'm rich on love.
And no my dear brother I would change nothing in my life if I could.
Love you brother, and I'll make you a kerfmaker and let it travel all the way to South Africa,
Mads
 
#23 ·
The symbols are my mark: First MAFE my name, next ISSUE, next the C&M DRAGON (my logo), last DATE and SIGNATURE. All in a wonderful little brass stamp box I got from my great grandfather, and brought back to life with my Japanese inspired stamp.
Smiles,
Mads
 
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