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406K views 352 replies 114 participants last post by  Mambrax 
#1 ·
Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal

There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.

NOTE: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.

Choosing which planes to restore - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.

Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal - I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.

The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.

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The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust

EVAPO-RUST Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.

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For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.

Photobucket
Photobucket

For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.

After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.

Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.

If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.

Thanks for reading and watch for more.
 
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#212 ·
A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user

Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.

A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Shoulder plane


Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.

When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…
Plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane Block plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Plane Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Scrub plane Rebate plane
 

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#213 ·
A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user

Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.

A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Shoulder plane


Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.

When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…
Plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane Block plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Plane Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Scrub plane Rebate plane
Nice job Dan. I agree, a properly fixed plane gives it character. I always think there is a story behind that break/fix. The funny thing is, these types of planes don't go as cheap as you'd expect some times.
 

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#222 ·
Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness

This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.

The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.

Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.

Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
Rectangle Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Flooring


Rectangle Grey Wood Composite material Gadget


Rectangle Sleeve Tints and shades Flooring Wood


Bumper Rectangle Wood Automotive exterior Gas


I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.

I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Plane Scrub plane Smoothing plane Wood Hood


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane
 

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#223 ·
Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness

This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.

The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.

Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.

Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
Rectangle Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Flooring


Rectangle Grey Wood Composite material Gadget


Rectangle Sleeve Tints and shades Flooring Wood


Bumper Rectangle Wood Automotive exterior Gas


I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.

I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Plane Scrub plane Smoothing plane Wood Hood


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane
I am looking for one of these. Nice job.
 

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#232 ·
An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...

This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…

The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..

Here is what I had to work with..
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Rebate plane Jack plane


Microphone Wood Amphibian Sculpture Metal


Wood Artifact Gas Metal Rock


Snout Artifact Auto part Insect Metal


Wood Rectangle Material property Tints and shades Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Rectangle Wood stain Antique tool


The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.

All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.

The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.

I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.

I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.
Brown Rectangle Wood Road surface Tints and shades


Rectangle Wood Font Flooring Hardwood


Wood Composite material Office ruler Hardwood Tool


Wood Tool Everyday carry Eyewear Hardwood


Artifact Gas Font Metal Wood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Gas
 

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#233 ·
An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...

This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…

The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..

Here is what I had to work with..
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Rebate plane Jack plane


Microphone Wood Amphibian Sculpture Metal


Wood Artifact Gas Metal Rock


Snout Artifact Auto part Insect Metal


Wood Rectangle Material property Tints and shades Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Rectangle Wood stain Antique tool


The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.

All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.

The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.

I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.

I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.
Brown Rectangle Wood Road surface Tints and shades


Rectangle Wood Font Flooring Hardwood


Wood Composite material Office ruler Hardwood Tool


Wood Tool Everyday carry Eyewear Hardwood


Artifact Gas Font Metal Wood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Gas
that was one nasty rust bucket. Nice restoration.
 

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#245 ·
Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat

I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.

I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.

For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.

I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.

The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
Table Wood Rectangle Flooring Cutting board


Brown Rectangle Wood Hardwood Beige


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Tints and shades Plywood


I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
Wood Tool Floor Flooring Composite material


Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


Table Door Wood Tool Clock


The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
Rectangle Wood Cutting board Flooring Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Table Hardwood Wood stain


All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.

I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.
 

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#246 ·
Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat

I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.

I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.

For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.

I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.

The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
Table Wood Rectangle Flooring Cutting board


Brown Rectangle Wood Hardwood Beige


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Tints and shades Plywood


I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
Wood Tool Floor Flooring Composite material


Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


Table Door Wood Tool Clock


The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
Rectangle Wood Cutting board Flooring Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Table Hardwood Wood stain


All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.

I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.
Great job Dan, thanks for sharing. The fit looks pretty good in your picture.
 

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#255 ·
Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole

In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.

Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.

The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Beige Flooring


For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
Wood Tool Hand tool Metal Balance


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
Wood Tool Wood stain Hardwood Hand tool


Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tool Plank


The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.

Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Nail

Bumper Cable Audio equipment Auto part Electric blue


I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
Plane Block plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Rebate plane Shoulder plane


Hand tool Plane Wood Block plane Tool


Plane Shoe Smoothing plane Rebate plane Block plane


Wood Block plane Hardwood Hand tool Plane


Wood Food Gas Plumbing fixture Ingredient


Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!
 

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#256 ·
Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole

In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.

Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.

The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Beige Flooring


For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
Wood Tool Hand tool Metal Balance


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
Wood Tool Wood stain Hardwood Hand tool


Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tool Plank


The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.

Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Nail

Bumper Cable Audio equipment Auto part Electric blue


I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
Plane Block plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Rebate plane Shoulder plane


Hand tool Plane Wood Block plane Tool


Plane Shoe Smoothing plane Rebate plane Block plane


Wood Block plane Hardwood Hand tool Plane


Wood Food Gas Plumbing fixture Ingredient


Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!
Well done Dan. Look forward to whatever you fix up next.
 

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#266 ·
Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored

The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.

This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.

Here are the before pictures of the plane..
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Shoulder plane Wood


Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Wood Plane Hand tool Block plane


I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.

Here is the plane after…
Plane Wood Bumper Bicycle part Automotive exterior


Plane Scrub plane Tool Rebate plane Smoothing plane


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Bumper Electric blue


!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg

!
Tool Wood Auto part Composite material Automotive exterior


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Composite material Electric blue


Wood Hardwood Gas Rectangle Composite material


Plane Smoothing plane Jack plane Wood Bumper


Plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


My first thoughts on using this plane-

I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.

After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.

Is this a handy user plane to have?

I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.
 

Attachments

#267 ·
Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored

The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.

This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.

Here are the before pictures of the plane..
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Shoulder plane Wood


Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Wood Plane Hand tool Block plane


I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.

Here is the plane after…
Plane Wood Bumper Bicycle part Automotive exterior


Plane Scrub plane Tool Rebate plane Smoothing plane


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Bumper Electric blue


!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg

!
Tool Wood Auto part Composite material Automotive exterior


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Composite material Electric blue


Wood Hardwood Gas Rectangle Composite material


Plane Smoothing plane Jack plane Wood Bumper


Plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


My first thoughts on using this plane-

I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.

After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.

Is this a handy user plane to have?

I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.
Great job Dan, it turned out real nice. Hopefully you will master it soon. Thanks for posting.
 

Attachments

#305 ·
Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture
Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Wood Scrub plane


The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
Wood Hardwood Plank Building material Wood stain


I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
Wood Sculpture Art Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Creative arts Art Hardwood Natural material


Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Scrub plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Plane Smoothing plane Table Block plane Wood


Wood Flooring Creative arts Hardwood Toy


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Wool Pattern
 

Attachments

#306 ·
Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture
Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Wood Scrub plane


The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
Wood Hardwood Plank Building material Wood stain


I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
Wood Sculpture Art Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Creative arts Art Hardwood Natural material


Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Scrub plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Plane Smoothing plane Table Block plane Wood


Wood Flooring Creative arts Hardwood Toy


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Wool Pattern
That's still probably one of my favorite restores I've seen so far. I really like that plane, and the grain is so amazing on it. Great work Dan.
 

Attachments

#320 ·
A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored

Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.

Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane
Smoothing plane Wood Block plane Plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Hand tool Block plane


Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane

Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Scrub plane Shoulder plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Kitchen utensil Tool


Stanley #113 Compass Plane
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Wood Sculpture Bumper Art Bicycle part


Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane
Tool Composite material Plane Wood Auto part


Plane Hand tool Rebate plane Wood Tool


Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)

Wood Tool Hardwood Metal Antique tool


Wood Office ruler Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Stanley #45 Combination Plane
Plane Wood Shoulder plane Smoothing plane Block plane


Wood Machine Tool Metal Hardwood


Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane
Wood Hardwood Fashion accessory Hand tool Wood stain


Plane Hand tool Block plane Smoothing plane Wood


Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.

Scrub plane Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Wood


Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.
Natural material Gas Engineering Wood Cuisine
 

Attachments

#321 ·
A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored

Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.

Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane
Smoothing plane Wood Block plane Plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Hand tool Block plane


Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane

Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Scrub plane Shoulder plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Kitchen utensil Tool


Stanley #113 Compass Plane
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Wood Sculpture Bumper Art Bicycle part


Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane
Tool Composite material Plane Wood Auto part


Plane Hand tool Rebate plane Wood Tool


Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)

Wood Tool Hardwood Metal Antique tool


Wood Office ruler Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Stanley #45 Combination Plane
Plane Wood Shoulder plane Smoothing plane Block plane


Wood Machine Tool Metal Hardwood


Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane
Wood Hardwood Fashion accessory Hand tool Wood stain


Plane Hand tool Block plane Smoothing plane Wood


Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.

Scrub plane Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Wood


Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.
Natural material Gas Engineering Wood Cuisine
Nice! Dan I'm actually surprised that all of your planes would fit on that bench. Are you sure there arent some more stashed away somewhere?
 

Attachments

#324 ·
A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored

Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.

Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane
Smoothing plane Wood Block plane Plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Hand tool Block plane


Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane

Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Scrub plane Shoulder plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Kitchen utensil Tool


Stanley #113 Compass Plane
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Wood Sculpture Bumper Art Bicycle part


Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane
Tool Composite material Plane Wood Auto part


Plane Hand tool Rebate plane Wood Tool


Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)

Wood Tool Hardwood Metal Antique tool


Wood Office ruler Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Stanley #45 Combination Plane
Plane Wood Shoulder plane Smoothing plane Block plane


Wood Machine Tool Metal Hardwood


Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane
Wood Hardwood Fashion accessory Hand tool Wood stain


Plane Hand tool Block plane Smoothing plane Wood


Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.

Scrub plane Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Wood


Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.
Natural material Gas Engineering Wood Cuisine
Looks like 70+ in your family. Ain't it fun ? And it doesn't take all that long to get that many…....I KNOW all to well.
Hope you enjoy adding to the family of planes as much as I did.
 

Attachments

#334 ·
Very rough horned wood plane given a new life.

Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.

I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…

The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.

Wood Rectangle Gas Composite material Metal


Wood Rectangle Font Hardwood Building material


Wood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas


After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Gas Composite material


Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Natural material Wood Material property Composite material Metal


I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.

Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Plank


Fluid Wood Drinkware Gas Cylinder


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Natural material


Tableware Wood Hardwood Rectangle Wood stain


Smoothing plane Wood Shoulder plane Wood stain Hardwood
 

Attachments

#335 ·
Very rough horned wood plane given a new life.

Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.

I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…

The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.

Wood Rectangle Gas Composite material Metal


Wood Rectangle Font Hardwood Building material


Wood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas


After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Gas Composite material


Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Natural material Wood Material property Composite material Metal


I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.

Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Plank


Fluid Wood Drinkware Gas Cylinder


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Natural material


Tableware Wood Hardwood Rectangle Wood stain


Smoothing plane Wood Shoulder plane Wood stain Hardwood
Great work Dan. Really cool to see a tool meant for work to be put back to its intended use. It's also nice to see a restoration of the wooden planes, as it seems in most cases it's usually the metal ones. Really neat to see that. I am not really a hand tool guy, is that a smoother? Or a Jack? Either way, nice job
 

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