Key Largo Carolina Dory Build

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Blog series by ccarrington updated 11-04-2017 02:56 PM 10 parts 13526 reads 13 comments total

Part 1: Design and getting started

08-14-2017 05:38 PM by ccarrington | 0 comments »

This will be a build log of my Spira designed Carolina style dory. I am building it in my back yard with my brother Scott. It is a flat bottom outboard power dory. It was designed to be 24 feet long but i will be stretching it to 26 feet, adding a wooden engine bracket to the back, plywood floors, and a doghouse/pilot house in the very front of the boat. The first step was seting up a jig and starting to cut out my ribs. l built the jig on a 4×8 sheet of plywood with a 2×3 for the ...

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Part 2: Strongback and Framing

08-15-2017 01:13 AM by ccarrington | 1 comment »

To begin making the strongback to build the boat on, i screwed 6 2×6’s together with 2×4s between for spacers. this was also glued and made on a long flat level bit of ground to make sure the beam was level and as straight as possible. the strongback was 24 feet long at this point. Next I had some old 4 foot by 6 foot rectangle i had been using as raised beds for a vegetable garden. I used that as a base to mount my strongback and just leveled it as best as i could. there i...

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Part 3: Bow and Rails

08-15-2017 02:01 AM by ccarrington | 0 comments »

First step was to cut the stem out according to the plans Then use spacers and the stronback to hold the stem in place while you glue and screw it to mount to the keelston Next, attach a triangle piece of 2×6 to further reinforce the bow of thee boat Measure out where you want your rails to end up and cut it into the keelston to keep your angles correct. I started making mine from the back transom forward to the bow gluing and screwing two ribs at a time and then jumping to the ...

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Part 4: Plywood and Fiberglass

08-15-2017 03:29 AM by ccarrington | 2 comments »

Plywood going on! 1/2 inch sides and 3/4 inch bottom. sides bent much easier than i expected. Could not get screws to catch into the chine log or sheer cleam but tons of glue and clamps and plenty of screws into the ribs and it seems to be holding well. Getting it close, then trimming to size and belt sanding to where it needs to be. Finally got an electric planer. Works so fast its almost scary. base coat of epoxy over the whole shell coat one of 6oz fiberglass. marine epoxy s...

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Part 5: Keel and Bracket Framing

08-16-2017 02:25 AM by ccarrington | 6 comments »

2×4x10 angled on one and and both corners rounded 5” structural screws countersinking screw holes set every 12 inches from 6 inches from the front glued on, screwed in, and heads filled One coat of fiberglass after base coat of epoxy just for a size reference The rough framing of an engine bracket/pod. No idea what i am doing and no plans, just kind of winging it. seems like it will work though. Next, will skin in plywood and fiberglass just like the boat

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Part 6: mounting bracket, glassing keel, priming

09-01-2017 03:12 AM by ccarrington | 2 comments »

After building the engine bracket, the first step was to glue and screw it level to the transom. At this point, it is just 3” exterior screws. Then plywood was put on the frame in the same manner as the boat. 1/2 inch for sides and 3/4 for the bottom and back. Then everything is sanded and fared smooth. Next it is wrapped in two coats of fiberglass including all the seams so it is one with the hull and sanded smooth. My plan is to put 8 long bolts through the f...

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Part 7: Paint and Flipping

11-04-2017 02:32 PM by ccarrington | 1 comment »

two coats of primer and 4 coats of marine paint. not perfect but nothing is. it should be good enough. Built a frame around the boat to help control while flipping it. I had some videos of the flipping but i can not figure out how to post them. it took about 10 guys and a truck and alot of ropes to get it over.

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Part 8: Pilot House and Casting Deck

11-04-2017 02:40 PM by ccarrington | 0 comments »

The horizontal framing was done with 2×4s and the vertical frames were made with 2×3s. everything was glued and screwed into the framing ribs of the boat. there will be a walkway around the outside of the pilot house and the casting deck is raising up 1/2 inch each frame brace going forward so all water will run back. next the house was skinned with 1/2 inch plywood. the top has a 1” taper from center to sides.

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Part 9: Foam and Floor

11-04-2017 02:45 PM by ccarrington | 0 comments »

All of the space between the hull and the floor is completely filled with foam minus the back rib. The floors are 3/4” plywood that will get two coats of glass after sanding and fairing

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Part 10: Sidewalls and Cap

11-04-2017 02:56 PM by ccarrington | 1 comment »

he sidewalls are attached to the ribs with glue and screws and bent into shape. they are made from 3/8” plywood. They will get one coat of glass after fairing and sanding. The cap has 1×4 lumber bent to the hull on both the inside and outside. The tops are made from 3/4” plywood cut into sections and hen planed and sanded to shape. They are all filled, sanded, and epoxied. coming along nicely. for now i am leaving the back 2 feet ...

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