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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'storage'

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Building a brace till #32: Hammers on the door

05-09-2022 03:39 PM by Dave Polaschek | 6 comments »

Getting a little more progress. I made hangers for my most commonly used hammers on the door of my till. Left to right, the ball-peen hammer I got from my dad, and which I use for nearly everything; the plane hammer I got from Kenny in the turning swap; the dead-blow I got from Kenny in the turning swap, which is proving very useful (autocorrupt wanted to “fix” that to useless -f’in Apple); and my dice mallet from Earl, which gets used pretty hard, and keeps on whacking.

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Building a brace till #30: Second door

05-03-2022 03:55 PM by Dave Polaschek | 10 comments »

Before I hung the second door, I spent a few days outfitting it with hangers for additional tools. I wanted to put a bunch of my marking and layout tools on the outside of the door, and a couple eggbeaters on the inside. (The first door will get the balance of the eggbeaters on the inside and more marking tools on the outside, as well) So, here’s a look. The doors don’t quite both close at the same time, because geometry, but I should be able to fix that fairly quickly with ...

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View EarlS's profile

Benchcrafted Roubo Workbench #12: Drawer Slides - Precision and Consistency

02-19-2022 12:30 PM by EarlS | 6 comments »

Sometimes, despite best intentions, the dimension gods are not kind. For example how do you divide 18-49/64 into 4 equal parts? I needed to know the interior measurement for consistent and accurate drawer slide placement. The drawer boxes are 4” tall and the front will be nominally 4-3/4”. However, the interior of the roubo cabinet case measurement was a bit uncertain. Initially, I tried to use a regular tape measure but that didn’t really give a very accurate number,...

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Benchcrafted Roubo Workbench #11: Distractions, Side Trips, and Squirrels

02-12-2022 01:35 PM by EarlS | 8 comments »

Building a cabinet of drawers might not strictly fit into the Roubo bench build. However, the space under the bench is a perfect place for storage. With that in mind, I decided to take a short side trip and make the cabinet before finishing the deadman and leg vise. A couple of items immediately became apparent. They are probably the most important things to keep in mind while designing the cabinet. First – the width of the leg vise chop will impact the cabinet length. If ...

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Building a brace till #19: Small drawer, spoon bits, countersinks, plug cutters

01-06-2022 09:58 PM by Dave Polaschek | 10 comments »

Started on the next drawer of stuff. The spoon bits I have are about the toughest to make fit, so I started with them. Rather than using a gouge to carve a holder for them, I used auger bits to drill through two pieces of pine simultaneously, with them clamped in my face vise so the lead screw wouldn’t push them apart. Then with four holes drilled (for eight bits), I cut them apart on the bandsaw. Woohoo! They’ll fit in a single layer in a small drawer! So I measured how much sp...

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Building a brace till #17: First drawer done, starting on the second

01-04-2022 07:38 PM by Dave Polaschek | 18 comments »

Started out today by cutting down the drawer holding my Fisch auger bits. They only need a single level, and the added space will give me room for runners for the drawer above them. Next up, the small drawer that will hold my long brad-point bits. When I drilled the smaller holes for the brad points, I broke through the end of the box (intentionally). So today it was time to fix that up. I glued on (with hot hide glue) a spare bit of edge-banding to cover the holes and protect t...

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View Ron Stewart's profile

Sewing Cabinet with Inlaid Metal Tile Accents #6: Final Door Assembly and Mounting

09-06-2021 03:36 PM by Ron Stewart | 1 comment »

Few parts of this project went smoothly, and the final door assembly was no exception. It started well enough. Attaching the outer trim wasn’t too bad because I had pre-drilled all of the dowel holes and pre-cut the mitered corners. I just tried to use as little glue as possible (to avoid squeeze out on the finished surfaces) and use a light touch on the clamps. When I started test fitting the final set of tiles into the now almost-completed doors, I discovered that three of the t...

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Sewing Cabinet with Inlaid Metal Tile Accents #5: (Adventures in) Finishing

09-06-2021 03:30 PM by Ron Stewart | 0 comments »

My wife wanted a light/whitish finish for the cabinet. Maple is pretty light toned, so my first thought was to use a clear water-based poly finish. When I made the cabinet top, I also made a small test piece. I applied two coats of General Finishes’ High Performance Water Based Polyurethane (flat sheen) to it, and that’s when we ran into our first big problem. In the unfinished sample piece, the solid maple was lighter and brighter than the plywood, which had a darker, pinkish cas...

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Sewing Cabinet with Inlaid Metal Tile Accents #4: Door Construction

09-05-2021 10:54 PM by Ron Stewart | 0 comments »

The doors are 3/4” maple plywood slabs with 1/2” wide solid maple trim and inlaid tiles and accent strips. They were by far the most difficult part of the project, mainly because they required a lot of careful routing for the inlays. Finishing concerns added to the complexity. I wanted to paint the trim and accent strips before assembly and attach them after applying finish to the slabs. That meant I needed to be very careful with clamping (to avoid marring the paint or finish) an...

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Sewing Cabinet with Inlaid Metal Tile Accents #3: Case Construction

09-05-2021 09:45 PM by Ron Stewart | 4 comments »

The case is a basic face frame cabinet. I used pocket screws to build the face frame and dowels to attach the frame to the case. To conserve material, I built a ladder brace to serve as the case’s inner top from plywood. I used my JessEm doweling jig a lot on this project. I used dowels to attach the case sides to the ladder brace and fixed bottom shelf. I also used it to drill the shelf pin holes in the sides. The jig’s indexing pin makes it easy to drill...

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