 Ellis-Mackintosh-Limbert mashup table #3: Glaze appliedRubbing the walnut gel stain really fills the pores of the oak. I’ve found it’s important to wipe it off thoroughly —and quickly — in order to get good contrast. This piece is small, so I didn’t have to use mineral spirits to remove excess glaze. In 24 hours or so, it’ll be ready for the first of two coats of satin Waterlox. Ellis-Mackintosh-Limbert mashup table #2: Branded. Then finishing begins.The little plant stand/table project is moving along. This morning — at an ungodly hour before work — I gave it a final sanding with 180-grit, vacuumed the pores, branded it with my mark, and saturated the whole thing with TransTint dye. I was particularly happy with the two half-lap joints that hold the base together. I’ve only done a few, but these are by far the best. Can’t wait to see them totally finished. Next up: Waterlox sealer, General Finishes walnut glaze, and...  Stickley Library Desk #503 #2: Panel Glue-upThe top of the desk calls for a solid wood glue-up. I dug through the pile of stock and tried to pick the nicest pieces with the best grain / fleck. Next, I did the usual prep for a panel glue-up. Plane it to height – 15/16”, joint one edge then rip to width. Next, I lined everything up on my workbench and drew parallel lines across all the boards. Those lines were used to cut biscuits to help with alignment during the glue-up. Next was the glue-up. I evenly spread ... Stickley Library Desk #503 #1: Getting StartedThe last time I worked on a big project was 2012, when I completed my Daughter’s bunk bed. It’s made from curly maple and has a built in bookcase. Since then I took a bit of a woodworking break, did some home renovations and a bit of running and cycling. A couple of months ago I decided it was time to get back into woodworking. I built a couple of small projects, a doorbell cover, a cribbage board and a few other small things, but that was just warming up to get ready for a ...  Stickley #369 Morris Chair #8: Stain and LacquerI sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.-----After the chair had dried for 24-48 hours I sprayed Rudd lacquer (Satin sheen), which I strain and thin 20% with lacquer thinner. After the first coat I sanded with 320 grit soft sponges, and cleaned the dust with cheese cloth (not tack cloth) and compressed air. -----After the second coat I wet sanded with 1500 grit soft sponges. The whole chair only took 15-20 minutes to wet sand. -----The Rudd ... Stickley #369 Morris Chair #7: OttomanHere I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair. -----The ottoman legs were laminated with thin veneers. As with the chair, I used 1/4” thick veneer strips that are later planed down to 3/32” thickness. -----The ottoman legs are planed to their final size of 1-3/4” square, and mortised to receive 1/2” thick tenons. -----I do an initial assembly to see how the joints fit. Everything is scaled down on the ottoman, compared to the Morris chair. Th... Stickley #369 Morris Chair #6: Leather UpholsteryI took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions. -----The seat cushion and the ottoman cushion require web frames. Here I am milling the half-lap components for the web frames. -----Web frame assemblies are glued together. The seat frame should be sized 1/4” smaller in all directions than the opening in your chair, to allow room for the leather and two layers of batting.-----Corner blocks are added to the large seat cushion for additional strength. -----I... Stickley #369 Morris Chair #5: Corbels, Pegs, and WashersWith the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back. -----Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project. -----Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.-----A 1/4” dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armr... Stickley #369 Morris Chair #4: Ladder BackThis is the Morris Chair I am building.-----Well it’s time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8” thick stock. The tongue is 3/4” wide to fit snugly in the leg dado. -----Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape. -----Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.-----I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.-----Next I pattern rout the corbels to final sha... Stickley #369 Morris Chair #3: Slant Arms and Side SlatsThis is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.-----I wanted to drill all the 5/8” holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I’ll take care of it now. -----There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table. -----Now the side assembly can be dry fit. -----Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4” taller than the shoulders of the leg tenon...  
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