LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'epoxy'

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View John Hoinville's profile

Trestle Style / Beer Pong Table with Epoxy Top #1: Trestle Table Style / Beer Pong Table (For a college student)

08-24-2020 08:29 PM by John Hoinville | 0 comments »

My daughter wanted to make a beer pong table for her boyfriend’s 21st birthday. The design goals were: The height and size of the table had to be close to regulation size Inlay cardboard box cutouts that he has collected of his favorite beer (hey no judging here! College students). This is my second larger project since returning to woodworking and I wanted to challenge myself to build my skills with hand planes where possible and other techniques (draw boring, using a glaze ...

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View DustyMark's profile

Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #33: Rudder Pedals and Foot Braces

07-22-2020 03:37 AM by DustyMark | 0 comments »

Time to Drill Holes Through the HullInstalling rudder pedals and foot braces meant drilling a total of eight 1/4” holes through the hull. You want to get them right the first time. I positioned seats where they go and we both sat in our positions and experimented with the best pedal placement. We installed the Keepers foot braces for the stern cockpit first. I drilled a 1/8” hole initially and screwed the braces in temporarily to test the fit. Once confirmed, I dr...

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Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #32: Amine Blush Setback

07-21-2020 06:12 PM by DustyMark | 0 comments »

Small DisasterAmine blush is a residue that forms over epoxy as it cures. It must be scrubbed off with hot, soapy water before proceeding with another coat of epoxy or paint. Future coats won’t cure properly over amine blush. Non-blushing epoxy hardener is available at extra cost. Feathering the rub strip turned out to be a bad idea. I selected regular hardener when I bought my replacement epoxy and should have purchased West System’s special, non-blushing hardener. All of...

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View DustyMark's profile

Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #28: Apply Keel Rub Strip

07-17-2020 02:37 AM by DustyMark | 2 comments »

Change of PlansWell, the kayak build has moved back out to the garage. I’d planned to install hip braces today, but I needed to make progress on the guest bedroom, so I applied the keel rub strip instead. I found West System epoxy at a local marine supply today! I used this on my first two boat builds from plans back in the 90’s and it’s good epoxy. Due to COVID-19 supply chain issues, my kit didn’t come with dispensing pumps. I was able to purchase pumps for...

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View DustyMark's profile

Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #27: Sanding the Boat

07-16-2020 01:14 AM by DustyMark | 0 comments »

Running Out of EpoxyI’m at the very end of my epoxy and will need to supplement with a different brand available locally. That twist nudged me to sand the boat and possibly use the remaining epoxy for touch-up after sanding. The kit contents completed the build. It’s the extras like the Dynel rub strip and hip braces that make an extra purchase necessary. This photo shows the irregularities in the epoxy finish even after a good squeegee with a spreader. The 80-grit disc...

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View DustyMark's profile

Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #26: Fiberglassing the Coaming Ring

07-15-2020 04:15 AM by DustyMark | 2 comments »

FilingThere was quite a bit of filing to get all the layers even on the coaming ring. I used a Nicholson #49 rasp that was the perfect tool for the task. I’ve got grinder wheels from chair making that would do a quicker job, but doing it by hand was a more controlled and sure thing. I sweated out my clothes on this job! Stern coaming after filing. Bow after filing. RoutingWith the coaming layers evened up, it was time to route the top edge with a 3/8” rou...

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Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #23: Fiberglassing the Deck

07-12-2020 08:08 PM by DustyMark | 2 comments »

Same Process as HullAfter the hull epoxy was green cured, I scraped and rasped the drips and ensured the hull to deck joint was clean to accept a layer of fiberglass cloth across it. Fiberglassing the deck follows much of the same process as the hull. I taped the hatch ledges to avoid extra sanding, rasping or scraping. The fiberglass cloth is draped over the deck and trimmed so that it overlaps the hull a bit. Cloth is trimmed for the hatch covers. View of the bo...

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View Brian Lackey's profile

Fly Tying Desk for my Son

05-08-2020 09:23 PM by Brian Lackey | 4 comments »

My son is turning 16 (my youngest) and is really into fishing. Specifically fly fishing. He has a small desk for tying flies but wanted something larger. A friend has a milling trailer and cut up a bunch of walnut and gave me some. The desk has a live edge front and will have an engraved section of the Yampa River in Steamboat. I will pour blue epoxy in that routed out section and then clear coat the whole top.

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View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Ultraviolet resin curing light made from finger nail dryers

01-13-2020 04:06 AM by Craftsman on the lake | 14 comments »

Not worthy of the project area but I thought some might be interested. I make fishing lures and currently epoxy coat them when I’m done. There is a coating called alumi-UV that you coat a lure with then cure it for about 30 minutes under UV light that I’ve wanted to try. There is another brand called Solarez. It’s a lot like the UV light wands they use in dentists offices when they patch a tooth. I suppose it could be used on other things like maybe turned items like pens...

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View John Smith's profile

Wood Finishing #1: Varnish vs Polyurethane

09-20-2019 03:48 PM by John Smith | 3 comments »

Varnish vs. Polyurethane Before we dig into the details, let’s talk about why we need different finishes for outdoor applications. Any wood that is used outside is going to be exposed to a wide range of climate conditions, as well as a good dose of damaging UV rays. These elements serve to break down the finish over time. Furthermore, changes in humidity cause the wood to expand and contract, and a standard indoor finish (such as polyurethane) would simply crack and deteriorate under these...

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