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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'ash'

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foot powered Scroll saw #6: Spring my foot

07-18-2009 05:48 PM by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

I bought a package of four springs at Home Depot. You can put a spring at the back or at the front. I tried the different sizes in different places and picked the 4” one near the front. I put it on by gluing short pieces of dowels, one to the base and the other to the bottom arm, and slipping it on. The next thing to do is drill a hole in the end of the bottom arm. I failed to mention that the hole for the blade holder is 1” in from the front end of both arms. Also, I cut ab...

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foot powered Scroll saw #5: Table and trundle

07-18-2009 02:12 AM by Tom8021 | 2 comments »

Some scroll work requires you to tilt the table. I accomplish this by allowing the table to pivot on the tower end and created a trundle on the opposite end. The thing to remember is the top of the table is 5” off the base. With the table width at 12” I created a curve so that the radius is 4 1/2” . The trundle is 2” wide 1/2” ply with a 3/4” slot in the middle. The slot can be smaller it just needs to be able to pass the lag bolt through it. The su...

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foot powered Scroll saw #4: The Tower

07-17-2009 07:33 PM by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

The tower needs to be beefy. I had some 7/8 ASH laying around so I used it. Everything hinges on the tower so don’t be shy adding a few bolts. The lower part ( 2 1/2×15 1/2) is just bolted to the base with three lag bolts. I drilled the base so the bolt heads sat flush with the bottom. There are dados for the vertical pieces. I wanted to make sure I could minimize any movement and I think this works with the triangle supports. By the way the dimension of 13” on the to...

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foot powered Scroll saw #3: tension adjusting and blade mechanizium

07-17-2009 12:49 AM by Tom8021 | 6 comments »

To make it so you can adjust the tension on the blade I took a 12” threaded screw and put it through oversize holes in the back end of the arms. I put a nut on the bottom and a adjustable knob on the top. The other end was a bit harder to figure out. I kept browsing over all of the fasteners at Home Depot, thinking there has to be a way to make a solid connection between the arms and the blades. Then it hit me and I think it is simple and strong. I took a threaded rod coup...

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foot powered Scroll saw #2: foot powered Scroll saw #2:

07-16-2009 09:01 PM by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

Let’s go over what my dimensions are: I used scraps I had around the shop, Base 32×16 x 3/4 melaminetable 36×12 x 3/4 melamine Arms 36×3/4×5/8 oakarm support (rides on top of the arm) 30×5/8×1 1/2tower 2 1/2×7/8×13 from the base You can see the arm top and arm are glued together perpendicular to each other for strength. The arms are attached about 4” in from end with the lower arm 3” off the base and the upper 8”...

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View kenn's profile

Roubo Bench - Becoming usable

07-13-2009 04:27 AM by kenn | 18 comments »

I have made lots of progress and actually am using my new bench some, I’ve just needed to get an update here. After putting the top on the base, I marked out so I could start hand planing.I used my scrub plane to get things close, that’s the scrub plane’s results above, and then this #5 to get the top flat and without wind.Here’s a picture of the top in “near” flat and smooth. FYI, I ended up with about 45 gallons of shavings.To trim the ends to final le...

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View CanalboatJim's profile

Wood movement and battens

06-16-2009 04:10 AM by CanalboatJim | 2 comments »

In a recent project posting a lumberjock had used battens to flatten a curling sign he had built. It brought to mind an experience I had using battens. When I retired from teaching, I got a part time job at a local wood shop. It was like I died and went to heaven. Using great power tools with wood that I didn’t have to pay for, who could want for more. One of the first things that struck me was the tremendous amount of scrap generated by the shop. I could not bring myself to toss wood...

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View CutNRun's profile

DeWalt Radial Arm Saw #3: Making Sawdust

06-16-2009 01:10 AM by CutNRun | 8 comments »

The saw is on its cabinet. The cabinet is mounted on an HTC mobile base, and all alignments have been completed. I was amazed at being able to hold within 0.001” on nearly all of the saw alignments and adjustments. As the old saying goes, they don’t make them like this any more. The cabinet is made of poplar plywood with cherry border trim. I wasn’t able to locate baltic birch. The trays are simple design that ride in slots cut into a hardboard skin. Simple but ...

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What happens when you cut with a drunken saw. #1: Sneak Peak

06-13-2009 01:46 AM by degoose | 22 comments »

Just a sneak peak of a new drunken weave board I am designing,, still in the prototype stages at this time but will continue with it until I am happy with it ..this is only a dry fit to see if the cuts are OK and what adjustments need to be made...

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David's [aka Patron] double curve..my version of the jig? #1: Where to start? The Table!

06-10-2009 10:07 AM by degoose | 19 comments »

I have spent the last few days in the workshop working out how to make this jig.. and have it durable and repeatable and totally accurate and easy to use.Actually this jig can be used for two different projects … well probably more that two but thats all I have used it for so far.To start, I had to build a table to go over the bandsaw table for the jig to pivot on. [double pivot actually][two pivots two pics right!! ]The table was made from 5/8” [15mm] plywood, with silver ash us...

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