Shopmade Jointer #1: The Plan

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Blog entry by Armand posted 09-22-2011 04:53 AM 35860 reads 10 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Shopmade Jointer series Part 2: Getting the motor and cutterhead from Ryobi AP13AK Thicknesser »

I have Ryobi Thicknessers AP13AK arriving and I’m planning to build a 12” jointer based on Matthias Wandels' shopmade jointer.

Everything will be copied except the infeed table height adjustment mechanism will be different. I’ll be using wedges to adjust the cutting depth. There will be 4 coil springs underneath the infeed table that will be hooked to the main body to keep the table on the downward pull. The four corner holes under each table are for threaded rods that will do the alignment of the tabletop to the cutter blade. On the actual build, two pillow block bearings will be used for the shaft of the cutter head.

Here is the Sketchup plan of the jointer, please feel free to make comments specially on the wedge mechanism. The two upper wedges will be connected by a 3/4” plywood. Each table measures 12” x 24”.

I hope to hear from you LJs. Thanks

-- My Master is Mankind's Greatest Carpenter.

13 comments so far

View BertFlores58's profile


1698 posts in 3373 days

#1 posted 09-22-2011 06:03 AM

I think it will be alright for the feed tablet but secure a different lock somewhere on those two tapers aside from the adjusting screw. The downward movement or weight might cause the tapers to slide downwards.
Good design! Maybe you can use the scissor jack for the car for adjusting feed table as another option.\

-- Bert

View BertFlores58's profile


1698 posts in 3373 days

#2 posted 09-22-2011 06:10 AM

For insights—here is how LJ Rand uses his scissors jack.

-- Bert

View littlecope's profile


3072 posts in 3953 days

#3 posted 09-22-2011 07:06 AM

This is going to be an interesting and ambitious build to watch Armand!!
Good Luck, and keep us apprised of your progress!!

-- Mike in Concord, NH---Unpleasant tasks are simply worthy challenges to improve skills.

View Armand's profile


232 posts in 3361 days

#4 posted 09-22-2011 07:46 AM

Bert, yes downward movement is very possible and your input is very much appreciated. The jack is now plan B if the adjusting screw (i’ll be using screw tail vise ) won’t prevent the downward push.

-- My Master is Mankind's Greatest Carpenter.

View patron's profile


13649 posts in 3792 days

#5 posted 09-22-2011 01:07 PM

way to go armand

will keep looking

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View EMVarona's profile


437 posts in 3286 days

#6 posted 09-22-2011 01:19 PM

Very interesting. I do not see any problem with the wedges. After all the slope is only very slight. In any case if it becomes an issue a locking system could be incorporated on both sides. Furthermore, the surfaces that contact (upper and lower) of the wedges can be lined with some metal or hard plastic to insure its flatness. The wood alone may develop some depressions after a time. On the whole I think it’s a brilliant idea. Keep it up. I’ll look forward to its completion.

-- Ed "Real happiness is one that you share."

View rance's profile


4271 posts in 3611 days

#7 posted 09-22-2011 03:14 PM

I’m guessing you are tackling this to save money. What is your projected cost vs. cost of a used wide jointer?

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Bluepine38's profile


3387 posts in 3536 days

#8 posted 09-22-2011 04:17 PM

If the screw tail vise has two follower rods? (I am not sure of the correct term) one on each side of the
screw to keep the force equal on both of the wedges, it might work, otherwise, you will have to carefully
measure, adjust and lock each wedge to keep the feed table parallel with the cutting blades. Looks like a
great idea, but then anything that I can build so I can play with it in the workshop looks like a great idea to
me, and some of them even work. EMVarona’s idea of lining the wedges is a good one. Thank you for

-- As ever, Gus-the 80 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Armand's profile


232 posts in 3361 days

#9 posted 09-22-2011 04:30 PM

Ed, thanks for believing the wedges will work. The ridgidness of the screw tail vise will provide enough support and prevent the upper wedges to slide down. The cutting depth of a jointer is also seldomly adjusted during each use unless you are planing a huge plank so lining the wedges will just be another option during the build.

someone from California offered me his used Craftsman 8” jointer for us$750 + shipping $250 = $1000.
The Ryobi Thicknesser only costs $150 here plus other materials of $50 = $200, 1/5 of the above price for a used jointer. I am not ready yet to spend that much.

-- My Master is Mankind's Greatest Carpenter.

View Armand's profile


232 posts in 3361 days

#10 posted 09-22-2011 05:00 PM


I think you meant preventing the upper wedges to drift sideways will keep the pressure spread on the connected upper wedges, i have something in mind to do this. I’ll take into considerations too your options during the build. Thanks.

-- My Master is Mankind's Greatest Carpenter.

View Joe Watson's profile

Joe Watson

316 posts in 3997 days

#11 posted 09-22-2011 06:30 PM

im fascinated by homemade tools. yours looks to be an interesting project. the guy on woodgears did a wonderful job on his.

-- Got Wood?

View SASmith               's profile


1850 posts in 3438 days

#12 posted 09-22-2011 11:06 PM

Have you read the book Making and Modifying Machines?
It has a few drawings of a shop made jointer.

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

View Armand's profile


232 posts in 3361 days

#13 posted 09-23-2011 04:31 AM

I now have the thicknessers, one will be used as my regular thicknesser and the other one is for the jointer and will start tearing it down in the next couple of days.

-- My Master is Mankind's Greatest Carpenter.

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