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Stickley No. 369 Slant-arm Morris Chair

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Blog series by TigerTed updated 12-18-2018 06:41 PM 8 parts 4311 reads 2 comments total

Part 1: Project start

12-18-2018 12:45 PM by TigerTed | 0 comments »

Project for this series

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Part 2: Rough work of quartersawn white oak

12-18-2018 01:03 PM by TigerTed | 0 comments »

I rough cut and milled trying to find best utilization of wood while preserving aesthetics. The core of the legs was 8/4 stock. I insisted that the through tenons not show a glue line. Because we want ray fleck on all 4 sides of the legs there are 4 laminations. Laminations were cut on the bandsaw tad thick. After all glued up, the legs were rotated around on jointer/bandsaw to center the tenon stock and reach final dimension. When gluing, I used my bench as a caul. Wax pap...

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Part 3: Rough joinery

12-18-2018 01:40 PM by TigerTed | 0 comments »

All legs are lined up and penciled with rough location of joints to avoid error. A knife and mortise gauge are used to locate mortises and tenons. Bandsaw is used to cut the cheeks. I roughly align one face. After the cut is made, I use a carefully thicknessed spacer to cut the other face. An angled trench is made at the shoulder line with a chisel. The cross cut hand saw is then guided in the trench to release the cheek. Edges of the tenon were removed with a combination of ba...

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Part 4: First fit up

12-18-2018 04:28 PM by TigerTed | 0 comments »

Did diagonal cut the underarm support stretchers to conserve wood. It’s expensive. The pretty stuff outside. Knots/defects are kept inside. Dry fit what we have so far. Not a chair yet but something. Now we are laying out the under arm tenons. Note that those bottom side stretchers will be angled which adds a lot of complication.

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Part 5: Start to arms.

12-18-2018 05:33 PM by TigerTed | 0 comments »

First we need to make bent arms. Not really bent. Bandsaw wedge off top and glue to bottom. Clean with handplane until angle is right. The legs now have grooves to accept corbels (router) and tenons on the top (bandsaw and handsaw). Tenons in rear leg are angled at the shoulder to match the rail. In this view I show that the clamped chair side is used to mark the mortises of the arms. The hole was drilled with a brace in the vise as shown. Tried drill press with no luck. ...

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Part 6: Start on the back

12-18-2018 05:48 PM by TigerTed | 0 comments »

The back slats will be curved. First we need the distance between tenons. The stile of the back are milled and with locating hole assemble to the chair with a pin. A mock up straight section tenon was made. Next we need a form to glue the back slats. Two curved forms were made with the bandsaw. Between the forms at spacers that allow us to clamp and accommodate the various slat heights. That assembly is mounted to a piece of plywood. Everything has thin foam sheet to prevent slat...

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Part 7: Finishing up the woodworking

12-18-2018 06:16 PM by TigerTed | 0 comments »

The rounded slats are cleaned up with plane and spokeshave. Next they are tenoned. I used the straight piece from previous entry to mark tenons. Tenons aren’t square to the world. Then it is a ton of fitting work again. Mortises made same way as before. Another dry fit. Marking tenons so I can chamfer them to intersection point. Shortened arm tenons to protrude about 5/16” Everything is chamfered. Did most of that with a block plane. Next we sweat the gl...

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Part 8: finished...

12-18-2018 06:41 PM by TigerTed | 2 comments »

I covered the sanded/planed chair with plastic and put some household ammonia in a pan. Repeated that a couple times and got some brown color. Next, I used a darker shellac sanding lightly between coats. A dark wax was applied and rubbed out. Made a poplar frame that the upholstery guy decided not to use..

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