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Hand Tool Woodworking

4K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  MrWolfe 
#1 ·
How I got started

Just a note that I'll add to from time to time.
I started woodworking with power tools and migrated to hand tools. Kinda backwards. but that is how it happened.
Norm Abram was my hero but I found I couldn't keep up with his tools.
Then I found guys like Frank Klausz, who just by their passion got me started using my hand tools.
Now I do more with them than power tools

to be continued…..
 
#2 ·
After getting started down the traditional woodworking path i quickly found out just what I didn't know about woodworking… or more importantly about wood period.
Power tools are great… I love them don't get me wrong, but with power tools the fact that it is a power tool kind of overcomes what you have to deal with using hand tools.
Rip Saws Vs cross cut saws for example. In a circular saw 98% of you probably have a combination blade in there that does an "OK" job cross cutting and ripping. I do. And it leaves you with an acceptable cut. with hand saws, you notice the difference right away. In how hard or how easy you have to work and the quality of the cut.
The other thing I had to learn was how to sharpen my tools. chisels, Plane irons, and saws not to mention my drill bits.
I'm planning on another blog on sharpening sometime in the future.
 
#4 ·
Same here, and I'm finding myself fighting frustration from time to time because the learning just don't happen as quickly as I want it.

In Houston, there's a little morning time I can have in the Summer to work in the shop, after that it gets too hot and muggy despite the portable A/C unit in the garage. October through May is workable seasons, but I want to spend more time in the shop, so I sweat in Summer and … play.
 
#5 ·
Hey…Hi… Welcome to LJs. Good to hear from yet another Neanderthal convert!
I, also went down the path of power tools to hand tools. 100% hand tools in fact. I still do own a drill press, lathe, bandsaw, chop saw, and the usual assortment of hand-held power tools, but all of these rarely get used. Maybe once in awhile for a knock-about household handyman project. I use the lathe mostly for my other hobby of model rocketry. I turn all of my own custom nose cones.
But for the woodshop….old school only!
And yes, there is a substantial learning curve with hand tools, but it's all fun!
anyway, look forward to hearing about more of your projects and adventures.
-Ed
 
#6 ·
HI all.
Woodworking especially with hand tools has really over the years turned into my drug of choice …. LOL
It is both relaxing and rewarding, not to mention 90% of what I make is quite useful. Why Not 100% some things are made just to make them, and they may never get used or for that matter have a use at all.
I was working in my garage last week, and my garage faces the street about 40 feet from the sidewalk. It was nice so the door was open for lots of fresh air. A neighbor came by walking his dog, and saw me at my fold down bench planing a drawer to fit. He walks up and says "...now what are you making?.." Explaining what I was doing he asked why not just use a belt sander or a random orbit sander to take the sides down. So I explained it s combination of reasons.
1st being control. I can control how much I remove a lot better with my #4 plane than any sander.
2nd I demonstrated the difference in the resulting surface finish of the wood. You can't duplicate a planed finish with any sander
3rd. I said It's the most satisfying way to do it for me.
He had a very hard time believing the .002" to .003" shavings I was getting all nicely curled the length of the drawer side. The proof was when I slid the drawer into the table, with no hardware at all and it went in smoothly with no racking even pushing it by a corner. His eyes grew wide when he saw that, and sheepishly asked…"can you show me how to do that?"
Hopefully another convert.
 
#8 ·
The mainstay of hand tools and woodworking in general Chisels

I am not sure what all the fuss and bashing going on now on the internet about Narex Chisels. I see article after article that A) they don't hold and edge, or B) they require a lot of prep, or C) they just are a cheaply made chisel.

Well in Reverse order:
C: IN the grand scheme of things they are cheap, but not cheaply made. At roughly $13 a copy they are very affordable. Have good length, good balance, and I think they are pretty well made.

B:) I have about 14 of these chisels in my shop and I found that they don't take much prep work at all to get them to what I consider a working state. I've never spend more than 5 minutes flattening a back, (and that was on the 32 mm one, just over 1-1/4". They come coated to protect them and a quick dip in lacquer thinner and a paper towel takes that right off. Or once I forgot and it came right off during the prep and sharpening.

A:) The claim that they don't hold and edge. I took all of mine to my local machine shop that had a rockwell tester,and NONE were under the claim of 59 Rc. Any where on the blade. Now 59Rc is just under metal cutting tool hardness. I remember turning tools being hardened to 62Rc or 63Rc. to cut ferrous metals.
I suspect that the issue is in the sharpening technique. Either while grinding they heat it up and lose the temper on the edge or they test for sharp by touch, (I do too) but they fail to remove the sharp burr created in any sharpening process. and then the burr breaks off after a short amount of use and you're left with a less than great edge.

The three chisels pictured were sharpened about a week ago. Since then they have chopped dovetails in Red and White Oak, Hard Maple, Some Teak and purple heart. They held up just fine.

Now it should be noted. My technique and it seems it's the best for me, and it stood the test of time, is to keep your sharpening system at the bench and after every couple of corners of dovetails you draw it on there for 2-3 passes. It's easier to keep and edge than create a new one. While some may say that is cheating, I think it's good practice. So next time I will not do that for one chisel and I'll let you know how it holds up.

Until then, I'd suggest that if indeed your chisels are to the right hardness, it's not the chisels fault..If the chisel was a computer I'd say it was a PIBCAC proglem. P I B C A C Problem Is Between Chair And Computer… LOL

Happy Woodworking.
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#9 ·
The mainstay of hand tools and woodworking in general Chisels

I am not sure what all the fuss and bashing going on now on the internet about Narex Chisels. I see article after article that A) they don't hold and edge, or B) they require a lot of prep, or C) they just are a cheaply made chisel.

Well in Reverse order:
C: IN the grand scheme of things they are cheap, but not cheaply made. At roughly $13 a copy they are very affordable. Have good length, good balance, and I think they are pretty well made.

B:) I have about 14 of these chisels in my shop and I found that they don't take much prep work at all to get them to what I consider a working state. I've never spend more than 5 minutes flattening a back, (and that was on the 32 mm one, just over 1-1/4". They come coated to protect them and a quick dip in lacquer thinner and a paper towel takes that right off. Or once I forgot and it came right off during the prep and sharpening.

A:) The claim that they don't hold and edge. I took all of mine to my local machine shop that had a rockwell tester,and NONE were under the claim of 59 Rc. Any where on the blade. Now 59Rc is just under metal cutting tool hardness. I remember turning tools being hardened to 62Rc or 63Rc. to cut ferrous metals.
I suspect that the issue is in the sharpening technique. Either while grinding they heat it up and lose the temper on the edge or they test for sharp by touch, (I do too) but they fail to remove the sharp burr created in any sharpening process. and then the burr breaks off after a short amount of use and you're left with a less than great edge.

The three chisels pictured were sharpened about a week ago. Since then they have chopped dovetails in Red and White Oak, Hard Maple, Some Teak and purple heart. They held up just fine.

Now it should be noted. My technique and it seems it's the best for me, and it stood the test of time, is to keep your sharpening system at the bench and after every couple of corners of dovetails you draw it on there for 2-3 passes. It's easier to keep and edge than create a new one. While some may say that is cheating, I think it's good practice. So next time I will not do that for one chisel and I'll let you know how it holds up.

Until then, I'd suggest that if indeed your chisels are to the right hardness, it's not the chisels fault..If the chisel was a computer I'd say it was a PIBCAC proglem. P I B C A C Problem Is Between Chair And Computer… LOL

Happy Woodworking.


As I move down this path of more traditional woodworking I'm finding that it really becomes a lifelong technique learning path.
I started by hand cutting joinery.
I've found when cutting dovetails that I cut tails first when making end to end joint when both pieces are exactly the same width, but tails first for other applications. So when I'm asked by woodworkers if I'm a pin guy or tail guy I say yes.
I'd be curious what your thoughts are.






 

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