Tools and tool troubles. #1: Plainer problems.

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Blog entry by Roz posted 02-01-2008 05:39 PM 2829 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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OK, I was paining 6 pieces of Red Oak down to 3/4 after replacing blades in the middle of the process. when I completed the job I had one board 3/4, one 1/2, two 5/8 and one 10/16th. I realize I did not do any calibration after installing the new blades, I didn’t have to do any on the previous change out so skipped it this time. Also the lumber was of a poor grade with a lot of bowing and cupping. But I can’t figure out why I got such inconsistent results.
Am I asking too much of my 13” Ryobi plainer? What do I need to adjust? Any suggestions?

-- Terry Roswell, L.A. (Lower Alabama) "Life is what happens to you when you are making other plans."

5 comments so far

View Brian Wohn's profile

Brian Wohn

97 posts in 5071 days

#1 posted 02-01-2008 05:59 PM

Wow, that is a big difference and no, you should expect pretty exact result with that planer as well. Even if the blades weren’t calibrated, you should have maybe had a wedge effect, but all the boards from one to the next should have been equal I would have thought. Bad boards/cups, etc makes it difficult sometimes.. do you have a jointer to flatten one side first before planing? Sorry couldn’t be of more help… try the adjustment to the blades of course, but that doesn’t make sense for the big range in depths. Take care and good luck!

-- Brian, Pelham, AL

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27249 posts in 4830 days

#2 posted 02-01-2008 06:32 PM

I agree with Brian. If you don’t have a jointer you can still use the planer to surface the wood but it has to have a flat face going through the planer. See GaryK’ s post on Surfacing Rough Lumber without a 16” jointer. I use a method that is a little different from Gary’s. I use screws with my mdf sled to keep the board from rocking.

If you don’t have a flat face for the planer to work with then it will simply follow the contour of the board itself as it only makes the faces parallel to each other.

Hope this helps.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Roz's profile


1707 posts in 4794 days

#3 posted 02-01-2008 06:36 PM

Thanks guys, I have a brand new jointer, I just didn’t think to use it to flatten the boards. I’ve always used it on the ends of boards. I’ll try it next time.

-- Terry Roswell, L.A. (Lower Alabama) "Life is what happens to you when you are making other plans."

View John Gray's profile

John Gray

2370 posts in 4893 days

#4 posted 02-02-2008 01:53 AM

Run a wide, start with the worst side first, face thru the joiner to get it flat then put that flat side (face) against the joiner fence and join the one edge. Then you can run it thru the planer to flatten the other unfinished face then you will have 3 sides true. Then you can put your jointed edge against the table saw fence and saw the unfinished edge. Then you should have a board flat and square on 4 sides. I hope this is clear.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View Roz's profile


1707 posts in 4794 days

#5 posted 02-02-2008 02:57 AM

Thanks John, I will give that a try.

-- Terry Roswell, L.A. (Lower Alabama) "Life is what happens to you when you are making other plans."

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