Frame Saw Build

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Blog series by PurpLev updated 05-27-2012 08:09 PM 6 parts 64337 reads 75 comments total

Part 1: design considerations - blades

10-12-2011 07:30 PM by PurpLev | 21 comments »

OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it’s time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it’s size range), and stores easily unassembled. I think I have the lumber to make the parts, but am currently stumped with blade selection and saw length consideration. I am not interested in the gramecy bow saw 12” blade ...

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Part 2: Blades are in, Conceptual design is out

10-18-2011 04:33 AM by PurpLev | 7 comments »

I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn’t resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well. I got 2 blades, both 27.5” long. 1 is a 5 TIP for cross cutting and the other 9 TPI for ripping and joinery. Yes, the cross cut blade has a lower TPI but what makes it a cross cut blade is the teeth geometry. In this picture you can...

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Part 3: Template me this, Curve me that.

10-24-2011 08:25 PM by PurpLev | 14 comments »

Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps: 1. Setting up a Parallel view: The default view in SketchUp is “Perspective” which allows us to view things in 3D which looks ‘real’ due to the perspective view but for printing we want to be able to see the drawings in 2-D as if they were printed on a flat paper (which is what we about to do). In order to do this you need to go to the menus under “Camera...

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Part 4: Stainless Steel Blade Clips

10-30-2011 05:42 AM by PurpLev | 12 comments »

It’s snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors – good time to make the blade clips. I chose to use stainless steel because I waned a material that won’t rust, be strong and capable of sustaining the blade tension, and I like the color (not a big fan of brass although I do like it as an accent in some cases). I ordered some 1/2” stainless steel rods from Speedymetals a while back for no real reason when I ordered some other material as it was o...

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Part 5: Sawing the Saw

05-26-2012 03:36 AM by PurpLev | 5 comments »

been a while since I was in the shop, and since I stopped on this project, and felt it’s time to get it back on the plate and drive it to completion. I was in a mental block until now and it’s time to move on. What I did today was to resize the blade to the saws intended size. Using the frame I placed the blade and marked where the 2nd mount hole should be at, punched it in, and started drilling it up. The first hole attempt resulted in a broken drill: NO, the blade is no...

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Part 6: stressed out... or not enough?

05-27-2012 08:09 PM by PurpLev | 16 comments »

With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade. I was toying with some ideas, and ended up getting an IKEA steel wire hanger as the tension control. It’s quite simple, and uses 2 threaded ends one left hand one right hand, both pulling on the wire: Putting tension on the blade using this method is not as easy I was hoping it would be and requires a pin to roate and thread those...

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