Classical miror gilding

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Blog series by Patricelejeune updated 07-06-2013 09:30 PM 6 parts 8397 reads 20 comments total

Part 1: Starting over

05-25-2013 06:24 PM by Patricelejeune | 1 comment »

Patrick has a miror in stock, real nice, with the original glass. A guy thought he will strip it and then left it for dead. Patrick bought it and now it is on my gilding table. As it was already half-stripped nothing could be saved, it was time to start over. The miror has classic elements on compo (composite elements), molded decoration elements. Those parts are traditionaly oil gilded in brass, and the rest is water gilded. It gives a contrast mat (oil gilding) and shiny (water...

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Part 2: Clay and gilding

05-25-2013 06:30 PM by Patricelejeune | 5 comments »

Couple weeks ago I have been making some progress on the frame. I did the clay on the part that will be water gilded, red everywhere except on the columns which were ocre. I also started the gilding with 23K gold until I run out of gold. I received it recently and will soon carry on the gilding. I will try to do videos to show the process, especially for the balls which have a nice neat trick. The balls also receive yellow then red

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Part 3: Gilding balls

06-05-2013 05:01 PM by Patricelejeune | 2 comments »

Here is the link on gilding balls And another one on gilding not the same mirror though Thank you for following this posts

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Part 4: Gilding and Burnishing Gold Leafs

06-06-2013 06:30 PM by Patricelejeune | 1 comment »

The balls are ready so it is time to finish the water gilding. With a brush called mop you reactivate the stickiness of the glue and clay of the clay layer and your gold will just be sucked in place by the water and stuck there It is always amazing to me that after so much care for such thin particles of gold you come in with a burnisher and rub the hell out of it… Notice the difference between the burnished and none burnished area. You can play with shinny and mat area...

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Part 5: Oil gilding with brass

07-06-2013 12:42 AM by Patricelejeune | 8 comments »

Oil gilding is supposed to be easier than the water gilding but go figure I am less comfortable and good with it Your surface needs to be dried and totally sealed, shellac is good for that Size is applied as nice and thin as possible, also a very even layer even in the recess but be sure there is some in those bloody recess. The size have a different working time.On that project I used a slow size which requires an 12 hours drying period prior to gilding. I put it late in the evenin...

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Part 6: Finishing and patina

07-06-2013 09:30 PM by Patricelejeune | 3 comments »

Here we go for the last step Wear is applied with still wool or pumiceBrass is paler than gold so I spray it with my beige and orange shellac to tune up the color.Then I spay the all thing to seal and protect all the surfaces.You have to spray from far so It does not coat the surface but land as pebbles and keep a none varnished look which makes it look like plastic The brass turn slightly pinkish coper like with the orange shellac so I finish it up with blond and beige. ...

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