Drying Burl Wood

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Blog series by OregonBurls updated 08-29-2012 05:05 PM 3 parts 17409 reads 12 comments total

Part 1: Drying Domestic Burl Wood: Consideration #1

08-27-2012 04:29 PM by OregonBurls | 5 comments »

Hey to all you LJs, Consideration #1 I thought that I would start a series on drying green domestic burl wood. With burl wood the end grain is going every direction and is under more internal pressure thus making it want to self destruct. Green burls or straight grain have two places where water finds its home. Inside the cells and outside the cells, this is called bound water (inside the cells) and free water (outside the cell walls). Free water is easier to escape than the bound wa...

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Part 2: Consideration #2 By OregonBurls

08-28-2012 04:00 PM by OregonBurls | 3 comments »

Consideration #2 If you have fruit tree burls or burls like madrone there are two ways you can semi-stabilize the burl.1. Pressure cook the block:a. I have a friend in New York who gets 12×12 x 6 blocks of Madrone and when he gets them the first thing he does is throws them in the pressure cooker for one hour.b. Let the water cool down until you can comfortably take the blocks out with your hands. Then re-wax them until ready to turn the bloc...

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Part 3: Pressure cooking your burls

08-29-2012 05:05 PM by OregonBurls | 4 comments »

Hello everybody! Part #3 More clarification on pressure cooking the burls: Pressure cookers (Canning Pressure Cookers) are set at 15 psi. Please make sure that if you use a pressure cooker that it is modern, meaning that you have the rubber plug that will pop off if you get too much pressure. So you have the weight that regulates the pressure and the rubber plug. Also, you do not want the burl to be sitting on the bottom. The pressure cooker will come with a bottom grate or r...

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