Bandsaw tension quick release addition

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Blog entry by Oldtool posted 08-19-2017 06:18 PM 2817 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I am currently in between projects and seeking something to do in the shop, so I decided to install a bandsaw tension release lever. My bandsaw is an Hatachi model CB13F, 12 inch saw that was also sold by Sears with the Craftsman model number 137.224320.

Not interested in starting from scratch, I looked around the internet and found two possibly easy adaptable solutions by Grizzly; a lever device and a (as they call it) clutch device. I decided the easiest one to try would be the clutch release, and proceeded as follows:

I purchased three components from the Grizzly parts store, two parts of the clutch & a special bracket, as indicated here:

The sum total for these three parts was $16.00, plus shipping.

I then secured from the big box store the remainder of the hardware, nuts- bolts- washers, all of which are very common and easily found in any hardware department. I also purchased a 3/8 – 16 X 24” all thread rod to replace my 3/8” adjusting rod, because my stock rod wasn’t threaded high enough on the rod itself to accommodate the clutches. Sum total for the hardware was about $7.00.
NOTE: Where Grizzly shows two (2) 5/16” hex head bolts to mount the bracket to the saw, I substituted a 1/4” – 20 X 1” for two reasons: I didn’t want to drill the larger mating holes in my saw for these due to the closeness to the edge of the tensioning bracket, and to allow me room to error in my drilling location & still fall within the bracket’s mounting holes. I also added two fender washers to accommodate the smaller head.

The total time to assemble was only about three hours, which I did in one evening & the next morning. If you are interested in attempting this yourself, then there are two major factors to consider; whether the bracket will mount on your saw, and whether the Quick Release action will suit your saw’s lift & lowering requirements for tension release. Examples:
I made a cardboard footprint of the bracket after receiving it, to ensure proper alignment for the two mounting holes & the hole for the tensioning rod. Here is a drawing of this bracket’s footprint should you want to try this before ordering the part;

As for the clutch action, it only moves the tensioning rod up & down by 3/8”. My bandsaw with a 1/2” blade drops from the full 1/2” tension position down to the 1/4” blade setting when tension is relieved.

Since I mainly use my bandsaw for resawing, I’m guessing this will be sufficient to avoid blade stress, and now that this is installed, I’m going to use it anyway.

If you want to try this yourself, parts & the Grizzly manuals can be found on line in the Grizzly web site, at:

If there are any questions I can answer, I’ll be happy to try, just let me know.

Happy woodworking ….........

-- "I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The point is to bring them the real facts." - Abraham Lincoln

3 comments so far

View recycle1943's profile


4580 posts in 2423 days

#1 posted 08-19-2017 11:11 PM

Very innovative thinking and execution.

Not having the engineering gene that you are so well fitted with, I simply whimp out and buy a Grizzly GO555LANV that already has that apparatus installed.

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View EWR1961's profile


1 post in 194 days

#2 posted 01-23-2020 11:34 PM

I believe this will work on My Ridgid BS14002. Quick question. My tension rod currently goes all the way down to the cast iron. I noticed that your setup does not, but it does look like there were marks on the cast iron as if it did before. Is that the case? Did you have to drill oles into the top for the bracket?

View Oldtool's profile


2976 posts in 2991 days

#3 posted 01-24-2020 02:56 AM

In response to your questions;

Yes, my saw originally had a rod that went down to the casting, and this provided the tension on the spring, the threaded rod pushed down against the arm casting and up against the spring. Continued use started to bore a hole in the arm casting, but this addition eliminated the pressure on the casting, no contact. The bracket is what the rod pushes down on to tension the spring.

Yes, I had to drill the two mounting holes to mount the bracket, to prevent possible slipping off the arm. This is the reason I included the drawing of the bracket and mounting hole locations. Note, the bracket is not symmetrical, presumably to match the machine it was designed for.

Hope this helps, let me know if there are any additional questions.

-- "I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The point is to bring them the real facts." - Abraham Lincoln

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