Learning Curve #12: thanks to the LumberJocks

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Blog entry by MsDebbieP posted 04-15-2007 01:08 AM 1626 reads 0 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 11: Multi-tasking Part 12 of Learning Curve series Part 13: Tenons »

Today I did another first and I have to thank my LumberJock buddies (especially the WoodWhisperer) for the strategies.

I’m working on a new box (surprise, surprise) and I had a long piece of wood that was rough on both edges. I, of course, wanted to keep one edge rough but the other needed to be straight to make the bottom edge of the box. In the past I’ve worked with 12” long pieces of wood, which I can fit on the mitre saw and I just “eye” it up and cut it off. But this piece of lumber is about 3’ in length and that method was not an option this time.

Dilemma: how do I cut off the irregular edge and keep the board square? (Actually, the first problem was overcoming my anguish at having to cut off a rough edge in the first place—such a waste. I have to tell you that it hurt to think of it being tossed aside.)

My first thought was to have Rick run it along the table saw but I couldn’t see how that would stay straight on the saw. Think.. think… and then a mix of images (based on fellow LumberJock’s strategies) came floating into my mind and I had the “aha” moment.

Solution: Attach the plank to a board that had a straight edge and run the straight edge along the fence of the table saw or bandsaw. “Good plan”, said Rick “but how do you attach it; you can’t clamp it”.

Again the images from my LumberJock/ Woodwhisperer experiences flashed in my head and the second “aha” moment immediately occurred with the answer: “double-sided tape”.

And so, the plank was attached to a board. The board went through the bandsaw. My beautiful little rough edge fell to the floor and I was left with the perfect beginnings for a new box!!

Next time: Next time, we either buy some double-sided tape that is good for this use or I run the wood through the planer AFTER I remove the tape rather than before to ensure that I get all the glue residue off the wood.

Question: is there a better/easier solution?

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (, Young Living Wellness )

16 comments so far

View Karson's profile


35202 posts in 4914 days

#1 posted 04-15-2007 01:10 AM

Debie look at Niki posts on running a board thru the TS (Table saw) He runs screws through the two boards.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia [email protected]

View WayneC's profile


14358 posts in 4611 days

#2 posted 04-15-2007 01:12 AM

If you have extra length you can use a few brads or screws to attach the boards. You also can build a jig for this. I’m sure I can find plans for one of the other Jocks will already have one they can show you.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View scottb's profile


3648 posts in 4840 days

#3 posted 04-15-2007 01:12 AM

practice with the tablesaw. I’ve gotten pretty good at cutting a straight line by eye (following a pencil line, that is) or attatch the piece with a couple screws at each end (presuming the board is longer than you need.

Or find a better way to remove the adhesive residue, heat or chemicals.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Van Gogh -- --

View MsDebbieP's profile


18619 posts in 4674 days

#4 posted 04-15-2007 01:16 AM

thanks guys..
the glue did clean off quite well – I just don’t know what might be hidden in the grain.

I guess I was on the right track with the second board idea.

Scott…... scary tables aw!! I don’t like that machine… it’s WAY down low on my list of “learning curve” experiences. hehehe

Thanks again!! I’ll keep these ideas in my head for my “next time” !! :D

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (, Young Living Wellness )

View oscorner's profile


4563 posts in 4824 days

#5 posted 04-15-2007 01:52 AM

Just remember to use a push stick when cutting on the tablesaw and feather board to keep the piece on the table and against the fence. Safety is key to good woodworking practices. You could try hot glue, also. It is used often in attaching bowls to a wood block for turning and is usually simple to remove.

-- Jesus is Lord!

View MsDebbieP's profile


18619 posts in 4674 days

#6 posted 04-15-2007 02:29 AM

never thought of hot glue!! I was lucky to have found some double-sided tape.

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (, Young Living Wellness )

View scottb's profile


3648 posts in 4840 days

#7 posted 04-15-2007 02:55 AM

I’m impressed hot glue would hold up to turning. Being as easy to remove from projects as it is. Oh wait, it comes right off non-wooden items easily, but does grab the wood fibers some. Still impressed though.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Van Gogh -- --

View dennis mitchell's profile

dennis mitchell

3994 posts in 4828 days

#8 posted 04-15-2007 04:05 AM

Debbie when you do start using the table saw keep the first cuts simple. No sticky tape or jigs or hot melt glue. Just running a board with a straight end and plenty of width to get the feel. The table saw is probably the most important power tool in the shop…at some point in time you will want to get some experienced person to show you the basics. It is no where near as scary as a shaper.

View jockmike2's profile


10635 posts in 4760 days

#9 posted 04-15-2007 04:41 AM

Listen to Dennis Deb. Table saws are probably one of the most dangerous machines in any shop. So start with simple cuts, get good at that, just using the machine. I was using mine once and had part of the board I was cutting fly by my head, and go through the side of my garage, leaving a 3×1 inch hole in the wall and I’d used a saw for over 30 years. Just be careful wear protection and like Os said use featherboards and pushsticks. jockmike

-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -

View MsDebbieP's profile


18619 posts in 4674 days

#10 posted 04-15-2007 01:21 PM

or… don’t use the table saw :D

I can get my wood cut when I buy it and only make things that are 12” in width. Good solution for me :)
(cluck cluck cluck of a chicken.. a smart chicken, though!)

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (, Young Living Wellness )

View cheller's profile


254 posts in 4623 days

#11 posted 04-16-2007 04:50 AM

I haven’t tried it on wood yet, but have had great luck removing adhesive residue with stuff called Goo Gone. I’d check the ingredients and try it on a piece of scrap (hard to find it your shop it sounds). It may be oil based – the bottle doesn’t have an ingredient list – which you’d need to take into account depending on the finish you’re planning to use.

-- Chelle

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4051 posts in 4577 days

#12 posted 04-16-2007 10:12 AM

Deb- have you learned about cabinet scrapers (card scraper) yet? I know it won’t work on your rough edges, but for flat faces, edges it will be the best $5 you will ever spend for getting glue squeeze out and for prepping wood for finishes.

There is a glue removal mixture called De-Glue Goo for yellow glue removal. Here is a quote from product description from Highland Hardware

“This does a great job of removing the glue from joints you’ve taken apart for repair. It’s also handy for lifting squeeze-out from hard-to-reach spots that you don’t want to damage. Household vinegar eases disassembly of joints glued with yellow glue, white glue & hide glue. The challenge afterwards is cleaning the old glue from the joint surfaces without scraping, chipping or tearing the wood and weakening the repair. De-Glue Goo is a vinegary, non-toxic gel which coats glued surfaces without evaporating and without soaking the wood. Let it stand until the old glue is thoroughly softened, then scrape it off without harming the wood at all. 8 oz.”

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over two decades.

View MsDebbieP's profile


18619 posts in 4674 days

#13 posted 04-16-2007 11:27 AM

Thanks guys for those tips!

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (, Young Living Wellness )

View BarbS's profile


2434 posts in 4599 days

#14 posted 04-16-2007 04:22 PM

Debbie- you could also use a ‘carrier board’ with spring loaded toggle clamps on one side that secure the rough edged board to it, leaving your cutting edge hanging over the other side. You joint one edge of a wide carrier board (plywood, MDF or even hardboard) and glue a long 3/4” x 1-1/2” wide piece to the straight edge for the toggle clamps to screw to. This then secures any width rough-edged board so the side you want to cut is free over the other edge of the carrier board, or you could cut through it. Run the straight, clamp side against a bandsaw fence or table saw fence to straight-cut the opposite edge (be sure your toggle clamp handles will clear any fence. There is a type with the handle residing vertically). Cut a hole in one end to hang it on a wall, and you have a jig ready for such cuts multiple times.


View photonic's profile


17 posts in 4580 days

#15 posted 04-16-2007 06:06 PM

Well Debbie you get out your (hand powered) rip saw, put that sucker on your saw bench and rip away. Then you grab your trusty #5 1/2 (jack plane) to square and smooth it out.

The best part is no electrons are harmed in the process! :)

That’s how I would do it anyway.

-- Geoff Webb, Spokane WA

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