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Small Projects #21: No Ruler Hexagonal Door Knob Stop

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Blog entry by Madmark2 posted 03-26-2020 07:59 PM 436 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 20: Jigsaw Stand Part 21 of Small Projects series Part 22: *4* Black Limba Dugouts *4* »

Roscoe, our English bulldog, decided that the spring doorstop was something good to chew on. In fact it was so good he pulled it out of the moulding. Next thing you know we’ve got a doorknob shaped dent in the sheetrock. Woodworking to the rescue! Yayyy!

I bought one of those round wall stops, but they’re about the same diameter as the knob and won’t easily mount to the dent (which is obviously exactly where it needs to mount.)

Round Stop

I had a nice chunk of oak 1×6 in the bin and I eyeballed about 8” or so. Next was square cutting one end and then marking the approximate center of the far end.

Note that nothing is ruler measured, the center was found by holding a pencil steady and marking in from both sides. Splitting the difference by eye was accurate enough and the fixed stop made sure everything comes out perfect without using a rule.

I set the miter gauge to 30° and adjusted the stop so the center mark of the wood was just past the edge of the ZCI. I cut the first miter, flipped the stock, and cut the second miter without changing the settings. This gave me a perfect hex point on one end. Had the miter gauge angle been off, the miters would still center, but the ends will be elongated or shortened proportionately.

Using the piece as a guide I set the rip fence to the exact width of the stock – no ruler needed. Holding one of the miters to the rip fence I cut the opposite miter. Flipping the final miter against the rip fence gave me a perfect hexagon – all without a ruler.

Using an ogee bit I routed a profile on all six sides. Depth was set by eye for about a 1/16” lip.

The mounting holes needed to be clearance for #8 so I chucked a 3/16” bit in the drill press and drilled a pair of holes an inch or so in from the edges. Again the “steady pencil” method was used to mark both locations evenly. Same-same for centering the holes.

Drawing lines point-to-opposite-point set the center location for the stop mount – again no ruler, just a straightedge. To mount the round stop I needed a #6 pilot hole. Unthinkingly I used the same 3/16” clearance drill as the pilotoops! I have a ton of 1/4-20 hardware and after drilling both the round stop and the board with the #7 1/4-20 pilot I was able to tap both and mount with a 1/2” screw.

The remaining two mounting holes were 3/8” x 1/4” countersunk with a Forstner bit. The countersink depth was set using a couple small pieces of 1/4” scrap to quickly approximate a 1/4” depth in 3/4” stock – again, no ruler.

The oak was sanded to 240 grit and finished before assembly. The finish is two coats of Johnson’s paste floor wax.

Before mounting I took the project critical step of asking the better half if she wanted it installed tall way or side way!

The required location was (naturally) not on a stud so plastic wall anchors were the order of the day. They’re not my favorite mounting method but I had them on hand. The screws were threaded thru the stock until just the tips exposed. Setting the wood over the dent and a bump with a rubber mallet and the mounting hole locations were set without measuring.

After mounting I covered the countersunk holes with oak caps. I love having little stuff like the oak caps in stock.


The better half liked it!
You can’t go wrong with that! LOL

When you enumerate all the steps and such even a seemingly trivial project can be satisfyingly complex.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!



1 comment so far

View Foghorn's profile

Foghorn

241 posts in 66 days


#1 posted 03-26-2020 10:08 PM

I like it. Reminds me of when I drilled a hole for a birdcage mount way back when and nicked a waterline. An attractive 12” molded escutcheon fixed the problem nicely and covered the water damage.

-- Darrel

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